Will the manufacturers EVER take 10 minutes to check their marketing materials? (that is the stupid question, I have been around a little while now so I know the answer).
I understand they try to keep their lights budget-friendly, but in 10 minutes a 4th grader could correct their material.
To be fair, it seems quite resistant to eating.
The overly crunchy aluminum body and tough stringy headband makes it very resistant to eating.
But I hope it functions quite well as a brick smaher and glass brokerā¦
Come on guys, only one word out of fourteen, thatās really nitpicking!
Saw a post on Facebook making fun of this listing for the obviously āwhat the f*ck am I readingā Item title, but Iām more interested in the led itself. It seems like a huge single die emitter? Hard to judge scale, but it kinda looks like a 9090? Any ideas?
Could it be an old Luminus SST-90?
It has the distinctly large monolithic die with a silver āframeā and many bond wires, and looks like old stock.
Good catch! This very much looks like it, thanks!
TZT DC 0-100V 10A Digital Voltmeter Ammeter Dual Display Voltage Detector Current Meter Panel Amp Volt Gauge 0.28" Red Blue LED
Is the above voltmeter suitable for testing 3.7v cylindrical lithium ion batteries?
I would give those things a real world accuracy of ~Ā±10% or so, the 0.10% are definitely not true. 75 mOhm IR are pretty steep, if you plan on using it to measure current of a higher powered flashlight, no big deal otherwise.
So, depends what you wanna use it for, I guess. To build it into something as a rough ābattery is half full, okā indicator, sure. Using it for accurate measurements, nope.
I ordered one Samsung INR21700-50E and two INR21700-50S. As far as I know those were never intended to be used outside of EV packs, and as such have very thin wraps. I plan on using them in my M21Bs - should I re-shrink them and add some more resistant wraps?
I already placed the order for the cells at NKON, but they will only be shipped in April, so I could still ask them to add some matching shrinks to the order. Would that be advisable, or am I fine with the cells as they are?
Thank you for the reply.
At my work a colleague is making a kind of mosaic of a lion made of marble. I wanted to put a couple of very simple LEDs inside his eyes, and among my sonās toys I found some pens with uv LEDs for writing secret messages. Iāll post a photo. How much do you think they consume? How many days 24/24 will go before a battery change? I would like to attach an 18650 to it.
I donāt have a multimeter at the moment. Thanks!
Might start out too bright (enough to pop the LEDs) on a full charge and then dwindle down to barely-lit as the battery drains.
You can use a LFP cell (3.2V start to finish) to avoid having to regulate anything.
You married to UV lights? Theyāre spitting out light that people mostly canāt see, and youāre only looking at the visible spillover. Better to use something like blue or white. More robust, and more efficient. OR, put a fluorescing piece of plastic over them to protect the LEDs and at least get more visible light out of them.
Thanks for the advice on LFP cells, I donāt know what they are but I will look into it.
At the moment I only have those around the house, but I can easily get something else. In the meantime I will follow your advice and cover them with fluorescent plastic.
Thanks!
Shine 'em around the house, see what glows. Plenty of source material to cut up to fitā¦
Scenarioā¦I have a 2 channel 12 amp driver but a single channel mcpcb with 4 emittersā¦if I wired both negatives onto the mcpcb would it workā¦and if it did would i then be getting 24amps out of the driver???
Is there a downside to charging LiIon too āslowā / too low current, other than long charge times ?
I have a handful of 0.180 A chargers left over from defunct Bluetooth earpieces Iāve installed adapters on that convert USB mini / micro to USB C. Use them mostly daily for overnight top off charge on my cell phone (5,000 mAh) or my Galaxy Tab (donāt remember exactly; 6,000 ~ 7,000 mAh).
If the Tab battery is (rarely) pretty much completely drained, it requires over 24 hrs. to charge to the 90%+ neighborhood.
What I think I understand is, that slower charging, well under 1C, is less stressful to a cell than closer to 1C.
But is 0.180A so slow that other issues could arise when charging 5,000 mAh & higher batteries at such low current?
Thanks all.
slmjim
I think theoretically yes. You could get 24A for few seconds before battery canāt supply anymore. Componentās would need to be really well balanced or the driver with lower total resistance might end up doing all the work. Best to test it, then you would know. Measure each driverās output current separately and then let us know how they behaved.
Iāve been thinking of configuring some of my recent anduril 2.0 lights and I canāt seem to find the current UI diagram anywhere. I checked the Anduril github but I see only the old Anduril one. I would use my usual source - ivanthinking - but there were a couple changes recently that introduce some noticeable changes.
Iāve found some more recent diagrams posted here on the forum, but Iām thinking I might as well learn where I can get them at the source. So anyone knows where they are published along updates?
ETA: Slightly dumb here 
I found the link on the diagram itself:
