I wonder if an entire Tesla car battery pack with its thousands of 18650 cells, was reconfigured & wired all in parallel to send out only the 3.7 ~ 4.2 volts, but it would litterally have thousands of amp-hours, how long with it power the LT1 Lantern on maximum mode on a single charge? 
Thatâs pretty easy
Say you have the 100kWh battery pack. We will use 3.6 instead of 3.7 for nominal voltage - so 27,777 Amp-hours. High should be what, 2.45A? 11,337 hours. Thatâs 472 days. Or, apparently, longer than a SC62w on low!
I didnât realize youâre an EC4GT fan too. Iâm a huge fan of this format. Nitecore hit a home run with it. They lumbered along with a few variations, to include one using 4xAA instead of 2x18650⌠The reflector is pretty much a copy of the one from the EA4 and EA41 models (all 4xAA). One variant has a slightly smaller reflector (EC4S), which despite the beefier emitter just created more spill and less throw. I wish Nitecore hadnât abandoned this EC4GT/GTS series. Frankly, with an SFT-40 or SBT90.2, this flashlight would really rock.
TBT, I got an Emisar D1 and the beam is very similar to the EC4GT⌠the SFT-40 being just a little brighter.
I saw someone on BLF modify their EC4GT and Iâm very tempted to do an emitter swap. I just wish Iâd bought a 2nd one from Ilumn, which had a $39.99 sale on them for many months about 3 years ago. They had another with the EA4GT as well earlier this year, but thatâs over.
Yeh, I generally like Nitecores, but they almost universally have some serious drawbacks.
First and foremost is the typische Hoth-level cold-white emitters. My MH20s/-GTs are mostly the âWâ designation, which is at best neutral-warm or warm-neutral, not âwarmâ per se. Oh, and forget about high CRI. Donât think anyone at NC even knows what âCRIâ is.
Second is unique and innovative UIs, but very little consistency. I looooooooooove the MH20sâ 2-stage switch and beyond-excellent UI, and the 2-switch tailcaps on the Tiny Monstor series, as well as the switch/UI on the EC4s.
That said, ever see the UI on The Cave Man EA8? Weird. Turn it âoffâ and itâs merely in standby, and will drain all the cells in, what?, a coupla days? Yeah⌠not good. In fact, I even forgot how to really turn it off so that it really goes quiescent and the cells safely last months or more.
Third, theyâre generally overpriced. Good stuff, but Iâm not about to put âem to the test as far as durability. I know someone who regularly tosses around his⌠S-light, forgot if Suefire or Streamlight⌠like itâs made of rubber. Beat to Hell, scratched, scuffed, dented, but still works like new. I like my NCs, but again, Iâm not about to put them to that kind of test.
That said, my MH20W is still my nearly-perfect light of all time. Compact, charging, decent output, good beam, switch/UI excellent beyond words, canât sing its praises loudly enough. And as I pointed out, compared to the Wuben i332, theyâre almost IDENTICAL sizes in all dimensions, both have on-board charging, both have sideswitches, but the MH20 takes an 18650 while the i332 only takes a 16340. Not even an 18350, but an actual 16340. Looks really nice and wonderfully Star Tracky, but only a 16340??
So they really have some great stuff, unique, feature-dense, but yeah, some drawbacks. But if I can scoop âem up at a discount (used, sale, etc.), I will.
^ Yes, that is a very good point that I shouldâve mentioned. When I said âhome runâ I meant for the body and switch design⌠but that emitter is way too cold. I really wished theyâd taken a cue from Thrunite and offered a decent NW emitter.
Wow, I didnât know that the EA8 UI was that bad. Iâm glad I never bought it! I thought the premise of 8xAA was just ridiculous. 4xAA is really the limit, because itâs important to have AA cells at about the same wear level, to avoid deep discharge. Pretty sick that the EA8 standby mode is so parasitic to the batteries. That reminds meâstay clear of Niwalker. They also suffer parasitic drain. Bad e-switch design, IMHO. A physical lockout takes care of it. You just have to remember to do it.
I had been aware of the Nitecore MH20W, but never managed to pick up one. For a while, Illumn had then in stock but at original prices ($80). Have you compared the MH20W to the MH20GT? Crazy that the Wuben i332 closely matches the dimensions and yet wonât take anything larger than 16340. Thatâs just plain stupid. Not even 18350? Really missed opportunity.
The EA8 is 4S2P, so you can (and I do) load up only 4 cells. You load one pair, then figure out whether the next pair goes to the right or left of the ones you just loaded.
In the manual, they do warn you of âstandbyâ vs âoffâ, but itâs not intuitive.
I got 2 or 3 MH20s, and only 1 MH20GT, and yeah, the MH20GT is throwier, but for all-around use the plain MH20 is better for me.
If someoneâs more into âpatrollingâ the alleys or backyard or such, the MH20GT would be a better choice.
Well, at least there is that convenience to use just 4 cells. As long as there is a way to get a complete off to avoid the parasitic drain, then I wonât rule out picking up one some time in the future.
I like the overall look of the MH20. Iâll have to keep an eye out for an MH20W.
For LH351D is there an app to check if you I got a good or bad pin? I saw many comments about how some leds could have better leds, is there a way to check it?
I have no idea what is being asked here, i think some things got lost in translation.
Have you got links to the comments to help us figure it out?
@pennzy, nah.
The main reason the SP36 canât sustain turbo really is because of the driver and choice of LEDs.
FET driver = innefficient LED driving, and high CRI LEDs are less efficient than low CRI leds.
One silly question: Can we use the headlight of a motorcycle and its battery pack to make a big flashlight? 
I imagine such a flashlight will be able to sustain some âhighâ beam for quite a long time.
Ah, I misspell bin as pin lol. For comments, most of them say âbin lotteryâ as if it is up to luck to get a led with better tint.
Why not? I had a collection of 4464 or whatever the numbers were, 4Ă6 halogen headlights, where all of them the lowbeams were burned out but the highbeams were almost unused. Slap one on a 12V supply and get a 55W light for ceiling-bounce if left intact, or just bust out the capsule inside as an area-light.
Thereâs no âappâ for this kind of thing, just the bin information from the manufacturers. Many vendors will not share this information with us (Simon from Convoy is one of the few that often lists this information in his product pages, either in a photo or the text description). Usually if we see anything about the emitter, it will only be the color temperature and perhaps the chromacity grouping. You can always ask the light manufacturer for this information but often they donât reply or wonât give/donât even know the actual bin (or ordering code).
âLuckâ and âlotteryââŚâŚpeople seem to be maybe misusing that more these days. It does depend on what is actually purchased from the emitter manufacturer but with a few exceptions most of the bins are pretty close to their stated specifications. More often if something doesnât appear as expected itâs just due to other factors like the reflector/optics, how much current is flowing, heat dissipation, etc. That said, most manufacturers have a slightly less expensive product option where the emitters will have a wider range in temp and DUV, so when companies buy those to save a few pennies their lighting products will show a little more variation. Usually when you buy a specified bin, every emitter in that bin/on that reel will have fairly tight specs. Also, sometimes the real world has more to do with buying what is actually available (i.e. many bins on the data sheets may not be currently (or perhaps ever) available for sale). This does depend a lot on the particular emitter manufacturer, but also just on what people decide to purchase.
Thanks for the info!
Youâre welcome. If it helps any, you can browse the data sheets and get a feel for what all is involved in binningâŚ.different manufacturers present mostly the same information in different ways, some are a bit easier to digest than others. Nichia and Samsung are kind of funky, imo, but itâs all there.
Hereâs the LH351D page, scroll down a little and you can download the .pdf data sheet. If you can get the bin or order codes of the lights/emitters you have, you can look it up on the sheet. If not, then all you have is your eyes unless youâve got decent measuring equipment. For reference, one of the better bins early on with this emitter was affectionately referred to as âdogfartsââŚâŚlook at the 90CRI choices on page 9 and youâll make it out, then you can decode the rest for voltage and chromacity. If you havenât looked at these sheets before, itâll seem like a lot of gibberish until you see how itâs laid out.
I get the feeling that a lot of the popular flak for this emitter simply has to do with poor choices/penny saving from some manufacturers. I know the ones from Sofirn now do not appear to be the same as the ones they were first offering, and neither look as nice as the bare emitters I bought from Simon and Digikey. 519A sure is giving this otherwise great emitter a run for its money, but this Samsung is capable of being more than decent. On that note, for what itâs worth and just as an example, generally Simon has chosen middle-quality bins for his emittersâŚreasonably efficient but maybe not the best there or with tint (he doesnât always choose this but usually)âŚbut Hank, for the same emitters, often seems to choose one or two steps better. Neither of these guys are constrained by upper bosses guiding the show and cutting costs, and both are enthusiasts, so they tend to choose nice emitters where some other manufacturers clearly donât. All in the binning.
Woho thats a lot of stuff that I donât understand. No worries though since I wonât ask for bin codes, I was curious but not that much :D. Its nice to know Hank do send better bins but it would be better if we can see these stuff before placing an order.
So I have this Pila 600P battery. I understand it to be a 18650 battery but there seems to be different styles with some being flat on the top such as mine and others having a raised part like a D, C, or AA battery has. Then there is the voltage difference of 3.6 and 3.7v. Can someone explain all this to me and are they all interchangable? Who makes a high quality battery? I assume go with a Streamlight or Suprabeam battery?
Has anyone here ever done something stupid with a flashlight and ended up so mystified and bewildered at a fault⌠when it was something so very simple?
Iâm only posting this in hopes of making some people here laugh. And I donât mind being laughed at. Spread the cheer, as I say.
So I have this nice Skilhunt H03 RC flashlight that I keep in my car for backup purposes. And Iâve used it a number of times that Iâm happy to have it there in my console, at the ready. When not in use, I unscrew the tailcap for a physical lockout. When I need it, just screw down the tailcap and Iâm good to go.
Fast forward to yesterday, when I go to use the flashlight and itâs dead. Absolutely nada on power. Iâm like, WTH? I had locked it out. The battery is a decent 18650 that holds its charge so well, after 2 years itâs still above 4v.
So I bring it inside and check the battery. Sure enough, voltage is 4.03v. The circuit is broken? I looked inside the tube. Checked the tailcap spring. Everything is in order. Firmware glitch? Maybe if I plug it into the charger, itâll âresetâ itself? Skilhunt provides a magnetic charger that works well and has a very nice visual display of function (the whole contact plate is lit up by red or blue LEDs). I connect it⌠and the thing is flickering like fireworks, which means it finds no circuit.
I remove the flashlight and rap the head a few times in my hand, thinking maybe thereâs debris inside the head thatâs coincidentally disturbing the circuit? No⌠what the hell am I thinking⌠this thing is solid.
So then, I try something. I squeeze down on the head and tail, compressed in one hand, and then I try the switch. IT WORKS!
How⌠is this possible?
Oh noâŚ
Am I⌠that stupid?
Uh, yeah. I am. Most flashlights have⌠TWO screw down points. Yeah, somehow, some way, the head Iâd never unscrewed had slowly but surely turned a little bit each time I unscrewed the tailcap. And finally, it was enough to break the circuit.
Well, I have a working flashlight again. And I hope you got a good laugh out of this. 
Yes, the 600P is essentially an 18650. You can get the 18650 in flat or button tops. I believe the 600P came as a flattop (though Pila could have changed that over time). Donât worry about voltage. Go to one of the reputable battery sites mentioned numerous times on BLF and pick your weapon of choice. I suggest making a list of possible batteries you may need or want so you can reduce the shipping charge per cell. Makes no sense to buy a $4 battery and pay $4 shipping.