That is good advice, thanks.
Did something similar last night when lubing the threads on my TS10. When I was finished I somehow got it into momentary mode. Only problem was that I didnât know that momentary mode existed â at least not in the context it was in. I thought I had perhaps got grease in the switch tube or something preventing a solid connection. Could not figure out why the light would not stay on. When I pressed the switch the light came on but would not stay on. What was wrong with it? Got so frustrated that I did a reset and of course that fixed it. Of course it also went into simple mode and was completely messed up in terms of how I want the light to work. Had to go RTFM and that is when I learned about momentary mode and what a bone head I was!
Yep! I had a similar problem with NarsilM. Iâm very pro-Anduril and only tolerate NarsilM on a couple of lights (like a GT Nano). I had forgotten which UI I was using and started trying to use the GT Nano as if it had Andruil, which screwed me up. Some commands are similar, but others not. Another time, when I was first getting used to Anduril 2, I managed to put the light into electronic lockout (5 clicks). And no amount of clicking would bring about proper function. Then I realized⌠âoh yeah, I have to completely cut the circuit!â and of course, that fixed it.
Speaking of the TS10, one of my all time favorite lights now, for smallish EDC. While at first I liked the rather âgolden sheenâ of fresh brass, Iâm very much enjoying the dulled patina look of oxidized brass. Looks almost steampunk!
Hey, whatâs that song that goesâŚ
Da-daaaaaaaah daaah daaah, dah-dah, da-dah, da-da-da-da.
Da-da-da-da-da-da, dah-dah, dah da-daaah.
Well, thereâs been many âdah dahâ songs. Suzanne Vega? Tomâs Diner
I wonder if thereâs any Suzanne Vega ASMR? Sheâs got the voice for it. :laughing:
Then thereâs Trio, with their âda da daâ song.
You can ignore that 0.1v difference - really means essentially nothing. Those numbers are the nominal voltage of the cells (of course the voltage we are interested in is the fully charged voltage, around 4.2v or so). Back in the day, the li-ion cells were sold as 3.6v and I think some today still are. As the cell chemistry and magic improved, many started selling them as 3.7v. The increase in energy is real but mostly you can consider this like marketing mumbo jumbo. That said, if you see 3.6 it might point to a cheaper/older/lower quality cell (so to speak), maybe like the old ICR type chemistry instead of the newer INR that is much more common now, and sometimes thatâs nice to know before you buy something.
Quality cellsâŚmany try to stick with OEM cells from the majors like Samsung, Sony/Murata, LGâŚand now Molicell, tooâŚand probably could include Lishen in there. Any time you see a protected cell or one with a button top, those batteries have been altered and rewrapped by somebody. Thatâs not a bad thing, itâs just that the OEM majors donât put those things on the cells the manufacture so itâs up to the aftermarket to do it. There are lots of good rewrap companies that are trustworthy and use quality cells (sometimes they even tell you what the actual cell is)âŚVapcell and Keeppower are two popular ones. Since these rewrappers donât make their own cells, itâs possible that model numbers may disappear, or perhaps a different cell will be used under that same model number - thatâs why our devoted cell testers like HKJ and Mooch and a couple others are so valuable. Good retailers like Liion Wholesale and Illumn are another layer of insurance because they really make the effort to ensure first rate authentic cells are being purchased, give them the care and feeding they need while sitting on the shelf before sale, and will take care of you if you happen to get a dud cell that slipped through QC checks.
HahaâŚyeah, it gets pretty complex. And thatâs just the sales brochure. It gets worse. 
Sometimes we forget that light isâŚwell, itâs physics. Itâs pretty amazing to learn about it - and all the people who really worked hard with experimenting and measuring and everything to unravel & establish the science. Emitters are incredible when you stop to think about it all. Then we change everything with reflectors and optics, start trying to achieve specific colors and stuffâŚ.and then the human art of perception comes into play on top of all that! Sometimes all of these tech details, once youâre familiar with the terms and concepts just a little, only serve best as some rough comparisons to other products, and when you get to know some emitters/lights, then those comparisons help to comprehend the differences even if you donât have them in hand to look at.
Mmm, I was under the impression it was Kid Rock, but I dunno many/any of his songs, at least not knowingly.
Tried goggling him, but those I listened to werenât even close.
My style is di bom digi bom di deng di deng digi-digi (Ooh)
Da rude bwoy no pley wid di bom di deng di deng digi-digi (Ooh)
My style is di bom digi bom di deng di deng digi-digi (Ooh)
Da rude bwoy no pley wid di bom di deng di deng digi-digi (Ooh)
Ah, I found it!
And I was vaguely remembering right, it was indeed Kid Rock, a tribal little ditty called âBawitdabaâ.
Looking at the lyrics, Iâm more confused than ever. Oh, well.
Ha, thereâs that part which is eerily close to it. :laughing:
Whatâs the difference in throw from an SFT 40 va SFT 70
Can anyone explain me why candle light has 1800 Kelvin but it resembles E21A 2000K instead of e17a 1850k?
I have measured several candles with my spectrophotometer and they were always closer to 2000K than 1800K.
Hereâs one :
Oh now that I check again, one source claims its 1500k while another claims its 2500k. So there is really misinformation. And yeah 2000k seems to be the real value, thanks!
Yes, quite close. In fact, when I first saw this Volvo XC40 commercial, I saw someone say it was a cover of a Kid Rock song. But, knowing Kid Rock, I had a feeling he mustâve appropriated someone elseâs song. Turns out, it wasnât his. Teddybears did it first and thatâs the clip used in the commercial:
Funny thing is, trying to recall the ditty, all I could picture was âthe guy with the hatâ.
Was first thinking Stevie Ray Vaughn, but his stuff isnât remotely similar to the ditty, so it had to be someone else.
Then Kid Rock came to mind, thought I had that âaha!â moment, but goggling around didnât turn up the ditty, until after I posted the query.
Gotta say, I was pretty damned close with the âdah dah daaahâs! 
Thatâs not a straightforward answer - light beams are comprised of several different factors. Generally, when comparing in an identical reflector the emitter with the smaller surface (the emitting surface, not necessarily the whole package size) will usually give a tighter farther-throwing beam, but it does depend (things like the bottom hole size, achieving good focus, assuming similar efficiency or at least similar output with adjusted current). If you take a light with a 70 in it and swap with a 40, youâll definitely see a tighter beam but depending on things you may also see a diverging beam or artifacts, etc (but maybe not). If you can fit the larger 70 in a reflector that has a 40 then youâll have a wider hot spot and/or corona (and possibly spill). In that latter case usually the larger emitter will scrub off some distance but itâll be putting more light into a viewing areaâŚsometimes itâs a good effect and sometimes more current will make up for some of the lost throw. You can balance max throw vs. usable light/beam and perhaps affect battery run time in the process (e.g. the smaller throwier emitter may be able to run at a lower current and still hit the distance you want, if it still provides your lumens desires). This is just talking regular reflectors and flat lensesâŚâŚplastic TIR optics will have less effect (and must also actually fit the emitter size) although paired with an emitter they can create excellent throw and clean beams (such as the Sofirn IF22A). Curved aspheric lenses add another point of change for the beam but they can really focus for throw. Sometimes when you switch sizes like this the differences are medium-to-subtle but sometimes thereâs significant difference in punch. If you put two steps, so to speak, as the comparison - like a 70 vs a 35 or the tiny Osram flats - then the differences are dramatic.
Iâve had my AceBeam X75 for a few months now and every turbo shot moisture builds up inside the lens, is there a remedy for this, is it normal? does anybody have the same experience? Just wondering if is a problem that I should solve before my warranty is up
Why are some people so grossed out by scat porn to the point they can't watch it and start dry retching or even vomiting? Think "2 girls, 1 cup".