’Cause it nasty. Naaaaaaasty.
This is somewhat common…it’s just humidity buildup trapped inside. On one hand, that tells you the light is sealed up reasonably well. On the other hand it’s irritating and sometimes this can cause spotting on reflector surfaces. I don’t know about Acebeam really but many of our flashlight factories are in pretty humid areas, and many do not have climate control indoors, so if it’s exceptionally humid at the time of assembly…this can happen. Normally you can just remove the bezel/lens/reflector and allow the light to air out, or run it on a low mode for a little bit before reassembling. I don’t know about the X75, though. If the bezel is easily removable then that and the lens may be enough…if the reflector will come out easily (i.e. isn’t held in place by a screw from behind) then that’s even better. If the bezel is glued then it’ll still come off but you’ll need heat and a strap wrench (or two) plus a way to hold the light firmly. If you remove the screws on the back of the driver to where it can pop up to allow ventilation, that might do it, too. I don’t know how this light is assembled, but you get the gist of it, and doing any of this yourself should not void any warranty or put the light at risk of damage (however…if you do run it with the top parts removed, just be sure the copper board the leds are mounted to still has good tight contact with the metal of the host so heat can dissipate).
I’ve heard of people putting silica absorbent packs in the battery tube and even a piece of sponge, then closing up the light for awhile…I guess that worked ok for some (most lights aren’t sealed up tightly on the inside…just the o-rings at the glass and tube junctions.
Not sure how they’d respond to a warranty claim on this but just know that it does happen and it’s usually easy to fix yourself. If you have any doubt about that then it certainly wouldn’t hurt to shoot them a message.
There’s a music form called “scat.” And in fact, that’s where Benjamin Sherman “Scatman” Crothers got his nickname.
Man if he was alive to hear about “scat porn,” he’d have laughed his head off.
Thanks, Correllux. Good explanation! I’m really eager to see an SFT-70 eventually make it to an Anduril UI flashlight.
And there’s The Scatman, born with a crippling stutter, learned to overcome it by putting it to music!
Cool. Hadn’t hear of him before.
And now, for the real deal, the original Scatman:
(P.S. sorry for the hijack. And now back to your regularly scheduled questions that ain’t stupid)
May have been a better place to ask, but:
Looking for a light, short on free time to spend checking every good light’s specs.
Parameters are: 18650 or 21700 (built-in is also acceptable, but size of light should be around that of a compact 21700), high cri, onboard charging, low low would be nice, very high lumen output is not necessary, prefer simple system (it’s not for me, I’d probably grab a wurkkos ts25 if it was, but idk if my poor old mother can manage Anduril 2 :P)
Can anyone tell me where to find such a light?
You can put Anduril in “muggle mode,” which is pretty simple AND you can set limits if your mother doesn’t ever really need maximum brightness.
Thank you for the response I’ve tried taking the bezel off, it won’t budge but I’ll try again with some heat thanks again for the suggestions Correllux
What do I do with my life now that I've watched pretty much all the abscess/cyst/lipoma drainage and maggot infestation videos on YouTube? What am I supposed to watch now while I eat my breakfast every morning? Nothing disgusts me any more.
Answers with Joe. Joe Scott. Look him up. You’ll find yourself again.
NEED HELP!!! Would anyone know the best way to remove the driver out of a Hank light either Emisar or Noctigon without damaging it… (to much)… Are they glued in if so will a little acetone damage the board ??? Appreciate any tips or tricks
Is there a difference between charging with usb to pc and usb to adapter? One of my light is really slow when I plug it into usb to pc.
Some USB ports are 2.1A out, and some are 1.0A out, and maybe there are other speeds as well.
In other words, some USB ports charge quickly, and some don't.
One of my lights charge up in 12 hours from usb, whereas my other 2 flashligths charge in 3 hours as it should be.
I think first one is faulty.
Hello guys!! I have a stupid question but can’t figure it out on my own. How does lights with a hard tail switch charge via USB?? Isn’t the switch supposed to physically disconnect the negative terminal from the body of the light?? I have a couple of lights like this and just now it hit me. Sofirn SP35T, Wurkkos FC12.
Lotta those lights you gotta actually turn ’em on to charge.
I had a few facepalm moments where “Duuuh, my light’s not charging and it’s been hours”, and then it’s “Duuuuh, I forgot to turn on the light”, and it immediately starts charging.
Sorry. But that’s not the case. Both charge while off. Although it would make more sense. The only thing I can think of is some kind of diode and a special switch. But still waiting on someone who knows exactly.
That’s a good question, hadn’t thought of it before. The only dual switch I have like that (with charging) is the Csteboke, which is the SC31T (even says SC31T on the tail switch circuit board. I just took a look at it and there are indeed two diodes on the switch board. I don’t have any other switches with diodes on them. I’ll have to try to look closer later but offhand both diodes appear to have their polarity oriented in the same direction (both toward one mounting leg)…traces could say otherwise, though. Charging works when off, of course, and if I plug in the cable while the light is turned on, light goes off.