Yeah, with the kit you basically just have to solder the LED power wires and you should be good to go.
Be careful to clean the LED carefully with alcohol before testing. even the smallest spec can kill the LED.
Ok. Thanks much.
Is this DD?
What’s the verdict on dedoming? Good, bad?
Yes, the driver that comes with the kit is a FET based driver.
I personally don’t like dedomed LEd’s but it does throw a lot further that way.
Parson my ignorance, FET driver is a direct driver?
Correct
It would be a good idea to get a very small amount of good thermal compound like Arctic Silver5 or similar.
Neal’s kit does not include the carriers. They are a $38 option.
Make sure you can get the upper head and bezel loose. This might be the hardest part of the conversion.
I apologize if I am using this forum incorrectly. I simply wanted to post a question regarding my BLF GT70. It seems that it won’t ramp up to the full high mode .When I ramp up it barely gets any brighter . And when I get double click for turbo it comes up to what seems like the current ramped up mode. All batteries are fresh and fully charged. And I’ve attempted to a factory reset. I’m not sure if the issue lies in the programming or of something is broken internally . Plz helps
If it maxes out around a few hundred lumens, then most likely the 2nd channel is not coming online for some reason.
Did it ever work properly?
The most likely cause is a bad FET. Luckily this is fairly easy to replace if you have any soldering skill. If not then a replacement driver should get it working. Lumintop should be able to get you one.
I assume you’re using good brand cells?
Hi vestureofblood .
I have a Astrolux MF04S instead of the BLF XHP70.2 and a Astrolux MF-04 as well. Is there a possibility to have a similar update?I have a BLF-GT as well.
So,if I wanted to push one of them,so as to be like yours,which one is better and what parts I had to find?
I have not had an MF04S apart so I cant say for sure about boosting the driver. I am gussing you will find a buck driver inside so if you take a picture of the board components and post it,there may be a sense resistor that can be changed on it to give you a bit more current. As for getting more throw, you could definitely slice the dome off your LED and get a huge jump in performance.
If the Astrolux driver can not be boosted, Lumintop doe sell a driver and LED kit for the BLFGT to convert it to 70.2 and the mosfet. BLF GT70 Conversion Kits – Nealsgadgets
The MF04S uses a Boost driver (6v to 12v mcpcb). You can change sense resistors to boost output, but Turbo run times drop from around 1 minute down to 30 seconds. Most modders just replace the driver to get a better user interface. With NarsilM or Anduril you have full control over the thermal step downs.
Lexel makes a regulated driver for it and I also think a FET driver.
See this thread.
What kind of extra performance are you looking for? More distance on the MF04S? Slicing the dome will do that. The MF04 and GT are already maxed out for distance.
Yes it worked properly . I suppose I can start there
Does anybody know where to get parts for the BLFGT70? I need the battery holders that go in the flashlight . I apologize if I didn’t post this in the correct area of the forum as I am new to it.
I’m having an issue with my gt70. Seems to be same problem as Jon844989, top of ramp is not as bright as it should be, and no turbo, no strobes, accept the 3rd one… if I double click, led goes off… double click for turbo. Nothing, click few times, one strobe would work… It’s strange. I’ve re-flowed the driver board. Ive replaced the mosfet. I switched The 8 pin controller with Another light to see if it works. I’ve tried different leds. I’ve tightened the battery carrier’s. I will mention, I have double springs, and braided copper strands in carrier’springs. Could I fried something having to low resistance?. I’ve had it like this for 2 years… and it just did this out of nowhere. Getting frustrated… any ideas?..
If the lower levels work fine and it is only the brightest levels, sounds like a mosfet issue, the lower levels are handled by the resistor bank. The high modes are handled by the dedicated FET.
You said you replaced it but something with that FET makes the most sense. If you have reflowed the driver, it is possible one of the resistors or pins leading to that FET was messed up and is preventing the FET from getting the signal.
I’ll try making jumper wires off the Fet. If I can Find the schematic for the driver. Also noticed the corner leg of driver of the controller, gets really hot while in turbo. Number 4 pin if looking at ic, top right corner.
1 2 3 4
[———]
[Tiny85]
[———]
5 6 7 8
And, , THANK YOU ACE
I do not remember the pinout off hand but it uses the same pinout as the Q8 IIRC.
If one of the pins on the controller is getting hot that is a pretty good sign of a short, trace that pin and see where it goes and make sure it is not shorted.