These 95CRI XHP70.3's aren't playin

95cri xhp70.3 5700K from kaido. Damn respectable opplez from a cree.



Lumens takes a hit though. Even with convoys 6V8.25A driver output with this high CRI isn’t that much different than the 5000k 90CRI I have with the 6V5A.

Which makes me think about something. Has anybody tested the xhp70.3 hi to failure? I know the 70.2 has been but I can’t find the 70.3hi. This is why I ask. Cree gives an overdrive current for all their xhp LEDs here

The xhp50.3 for example, in the datasheet maximum is 6V3A, but Cree states an overdrive current for flashlights can be up to 6V5A. Which is what we all drive them at anyways.

Every xhp has an overdrive current here, except the 70.3. Cree states that’s because maximum lumens is already achieved at the max current listed in the regular datasheet. At first I thought this might be a liability thing, but I’m wondering now if they might actually be not too far off here. Anybody test the 70.3hi to failure yet?

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I’ve got one of those 8A driver for testing, it does only ~7A above 4Vin, 5.5A under that, with the cell voltage sag it’ll basically never do 7A. Maybe mine is a dud but anyway 8.25A is excessive for the MP3431 used in this driver, and if you don’t see a difference in output vs 5A 90CRI then 5.5A makes sense.

Aside from that, you’re very lucky with that tint, I think @Haukkeli tested a few 95cri from kaido and they weren’t that good.

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Ya that’s very believable. I do see a difference with a charged up battery but it’s not what I’d expect to see between 5A and 8.25A. It does get hotter a lot faster though. I threw in a cell at 3.6v and output was pretty poor.

Do you know of anyone that’s tested these 70.3’s to failure yet? Or close to it anyways

Edit: Btw what method do you use to test current at the emitter? Clamp meter and a big copper wire? Or voltage drop across a resistor? Something else?

For accurate current and efficiency measurements I use Vishay Precision Group CSM 0.1% curent sense resistors in various values
For doing a quick check (and lossless measurement) I use a current clamp.

Not that I’m aware of.

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I tested 3 and the “best” has DUV of -0.0001

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Not saying it is “cheating” in any way or form, but you seem to be using a green AR coated lens, which will impact the DUV- a smidge.

Can you test it again without the lens installed please?
If it confirms it is that good I’m also getting one from KD.

Last I checked Kaido was out of stock

Absolutely it does. I can do that later tonight.

Also goes without saying we take opple results with a grain of salt, so I did a quick comparisons with some other lights I have. White balance is not locked between photos, sorry, but that shouldn’t matter for comparisons within each individual photo. Everything has AR glass.

Top to bottom: b35AM 5000K, 519a 4500K DD, sft40 6500K, xhp70.3 5700K, xhp70.3 5000K

Left to right: Hank’s xhp70.3 5000K, kaido xhp70.3 5700K, Simon’s xhp70.3 5000K

5700K xhp70.3 and 5700K sft70

I chose to use the sft70 because it’s another 5700K emitter, it’s the closest CCT I had to the xhp. Those are both 5700K on the nose. Not because it makes the xhp look good because it’s a very positive DUV. Honest. I dont have many 5700K emitters. Well I do, but they’ve all been dedomed lol

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That is a very interesting comparison, I think it even holds it own against the B35AM. I’m impressed!

It does really show the DUV- , and now I’m kinda bummed KD is out of stock… Cree going from mostly green/yellow to Nichia(-ish) tint.

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Ya these 70.3 hi’s are a huge improvement over the older ones, or even the HDs, but they still have a bit of that angular tint shift cree halo that nichia’s don’t have at all.

I like the b35am a lot more than I thought I would. I have a d1 and a D1k b35am, I requested the full power driver on both, because I thought I’d be swapping in something else and wouldn’t have a b35am in there for long. I didn’t like the idea of an emitter that had to be limited to below what the boost driver could do. But both of them still have the their b35am’s in there lol. Not the brightest things ever but still plenty bright. Very pretty too

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Dice it!
Like i did with 95CRI XHP50.3 from KD.
Although HI and white silicine around die, yellow goo is still there under white silicone.

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Ya I really need to do this. Im scared lol. The only time I’ve ever tried to slice anything was a 519a and that was only because I knew I could dedome it if I messed it up, which I did because I did lol

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I’ve done this with an xhp70.2, didn’t realise it could be done with the .3 series. Good to know thanks

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