On those ones you've got to remove the switch and pop it out from the top.
I’m blocked, I should remove this stwich? It seems impossible, is stuck with a glue. . I have fear of breaking
the driver does not get removed
and the reflector I think this screwed
any tips or step towards open? I wanted to see the driver to see if I can make some mod :_(
Solder a heavy copper wire to the driver, then grab the wire with pliers and pull the driver out.
Chris, sometimes you come up with the best solutions. Can't believe I've never thought of that! Thanks for sharing.
I read here somewhere to unscrew the reflector. Use a latex glove, the reflector will mark up easily. After that the driver can be pushed out from behind.
I tried pulling at like you are and I tried removing the switch with no luck.
Careful not to pull far or jerk it, you might rip out the electronic switch’s wires… In case you don’t have a soldering iron (though you probably do if you’re looking to mod it).
Don't grab and pull like a caveman, use the pliers like a pry bar.
Obviously, use something between the pliers and the head to prevent scratches/gouging.
I don’t think the switch is soldered in. After you remove the retaining ring, you have to tease it out with tweezers. If you can lift an edge, stick in a toothpick in the opening. Then finagle it out with the tweezers. Then stick something through the hole, like a hex key, and bang the driver out.
Some of the securitying e-switches are very tight in the hole, yep, those black ones are them! I take a fine screwdriver and get them to unthread a little bit (they are almost a press fit) then I can get around the edge and get it out.
But that's not a Securitying light in his pics, says Sky Ray and the driver is different. I have seen one SRK clone that had the switch PCB glued in.
True! I've had a few of the Securityings that have that exact same switch that have also been very tight, maybe even lightly glued. A pain to get out, for sure. It's amazing how many different parts you see from 25-30 of these lights from the same batch, it's like they have a huge mixed bin of parts they are pulling from.
sorry is not a securitying, its a clone of SkyRay King.
Very thank you all for the tips!
I did it by soldering a wire and several attempts! I left the driver pretty ugly tin solder :~
And the driver…… I think it’s bad quality and simple…
I can do something mod with this driver?
yeah… get another 3 torroids driver from wallbuys :bigsmile:
Looks pretty well identical to the one I’ve got.
I believe it was recommended to bridge/copper wire on R4, R5, R6, and R7. Planning on doing this to mine once I get some other things out of the way.
Hey Retiro. Check out post 87, then 95, & 96. Best of luck.
OK… let’s see what is this securitiying is all about… this is my 8th “beer can” lights
mine is came from ebay seller chinavally and it does shipped out from amazon and it says securitiying on the head( surprisingly they didn’t charge me any tax)and it came in the securitying box 
Which is the cheapest seller for a Securitying with shipping to Germany? 
Thank you.
my modded srk securitying from mtn electronics is coming today
i forgot to bring my batteries to charge them at work 
its panasonic ncrb, for now until i can get some 25r button tops
Had no luck getting the FETs - won’t ship to the Philippines. :_(
However, I did bypass the zero resistors with an AWG 22 wire and replaced the stock emitters with XM-L2 T6 3Bs from FastTech reflowed on 20 mm SinkPads from LED-DNA and I loved the result very much. :bigsmile:
I can’t get the tailcap readings because I still can’t remove the PCB connecting the negatives of the four 18650s and I won’t try getting the readings thru the neck either just like what I did before - and risk shorting the cells again. BUT the resulting beam is much brighter than stock and I like the neutral white of the XM-L2 T6 3B more than that of the XM-L T6 3C (of my Convoy C8). 
Thanx ImA4Wheelr! 
This is just like the driver of my clone SRK (post 87). I bypassed the zero resistors using an AWG 22 wire like ImA4Wheelr said and I liked the results.
Changing the FETs might give you better results.