Good tips.This will prevent hard to clean finger prints on lens and reflector as well. Haha.
I just wanted to mention I’ve been getting my securitying’s from amazon from a seller called ePathDirect (fulfilled by amazon out of their Lexington KY center) for $29.95. I’ve gotten 3 now within the last month. They all have the red JB driver and while the first two had XM-L’s the one that came today had XM-L2’s (look like around 1C tint, not the best either, cool but some green) but I’d rather have three XM-L2’s to put in my spare parts bin than more XM-L’s regardless.
I got a fourth one from then but got it shipped 2-day with amazon prime (got the other 3 with standard super-saver shipping) and the one that came two-day wasn’t the securitying even tho I ordered from the same seller and it came from the same center so I could of just got lucky the other 3 times. The one different one also came in a white box and had the [XM-L] emitters mounted on individual stars, I sent it back.
Um…actually 3 more torroids would do no good…it only has ONE output channel…
I wonder which one is better 3 torroids driver of the original SRK or this new securitying driver?
seems like securitying driver is easier to mod 
The old 3-toroid SRK driver has rather crappy FETs, AO4468s, there's three of them and each one is over 20mOhms. With sense resistors bridged it does a max of around 4.2A per channel, and that's with hot low resistance cells. There are lower resistance FETs in the same package (SOIC-8) that could be swapped in but that's a lot of trouble for something that can't be reflashed with a usable UI. It's just needlessly complex, really.
edit: but if you don't want max amps and instead want something regulated, it's not that bad. The FETs are only a problem when all the other roadblocks are removed.
Just wanted to share my tail upgrade. After I melted a copper braided spring running one of the lights with a resistor modded/upgraded wire’s but otherwise stock JB driver off two 20R’s last night…
This is a random copper ring I had in my parts drawer. Came out of some component but can’t remember what. I’m going to try it like this for a while but I may end up drilling 4 holes in the PCB and feeding the braid threw to connect directly into my new ground ring.
If you notice the additional pieces tie directly to the mount holes as well as each spring. I’ve also removed the coating at the 4 points on the body where it makes contact. If I continue to have issues I’ll drill/tap the other 2 holes while I’m at it.
:bigsmile:
Very nice , need to make me one of those too Comfychair 
Show off.
lol nice. What springs are you using?
The plate used to be 5/8" copper pipe, slit lengthwise then hammered flat (I think it's .040" wall?). Springs are the 'A' version from IOS, the big mean ones.
Your just using them as pictured or you put braid on them as well?
Last night melting those two was a pretty big scare, smoke and all… Especially since one of these is for a buddy I want to do all I can.
Cereal_killer, I normally buy those springs in 10-packs from CNQ/fancyflashlights.. Im not sure about max amps.. But I think they go soft/melt/overheat at around 7amp... I have melted some of these springs when testing them out.. Copper braid and I have not been able destroy them at 12A (highest current I have had through a single spring). Cooper braiding is a must mod on lights like this anyway if you want best possible performance out of the batteries. I normally prefer stock springs that have been copper braided on SRK lights. Those springs are quite stiff are are not as suitable for different lengths of batteries..
braid??? BRAID!! We don need no steenkin’ braid! 
Hello! I’ve been mod my SkyRay Clone, now that I have much free time. I changed the wires of the LEDs for a silicone 22awg. Now just need to increase the output of driver.
this would be a solution?:
or would not help? :~
No, you do NOT need to increase the output from the driver, not until you replace those aluminum MCPCBs with copper ones.
thank you comfychair! with this would be enough? http://www.ebay.com/itm/5PCS-20mm-Star-Copper-Base-Board-for-Cree-XM-L2-XML2-XML-XM-L-LEDs-LED-/221243386040?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33832228b8
I need some more component to increase driver output? or with the bypass is OK?
Get sinkpads or noctigon, they have no dielectric (isolating) layer in the heat path.
I have been looking for information on the dielectric layer and do not understand that is necessary for this mod. I can not use copper base without dielectric layer?
wanted it to be a simple and cheap mod and” I read this thread”: 6x 20mm XML-ledboard comparison and I think the little difference in performance between copper base and sinkpad is not necessary for my. I can do the bypass resistors to check only the luminous difference? I will not use the flashlight until I put copper base plate on leds
+1 - those copper boards are pretty useless over standard aluminum ones. Usually we refer to copper boards as either SinkPAD or Noctigon. There's been some tests done lately that show aluminum boards that have no blocking dielectric layer perform very close to copper SinkPAD's or Noctigons, but the SinkPAD aluminum ones are the only ones I know of.
Those no-name copper boards from eBay can be dremel'd down to the copper at the center pad, then filled in with solder - probably not as good at SinkPAD or Noctigons, but it will work better, but I've found them arkward to reflow the LED's back on.
The problem is when you cut down the resistance, you will bump up amps, a lot potentially, and those LED's may not last very long because the heat runoff is getting blocked by the dielectric layer. Also you will get heat sag, which means the output will start dropping right away, sometimes turning the tint bluish.
Or you can do this and have similar results: