are one mod with the 109 led host
the 109 led flashlight are nice for mods, I love it
but this 12 xm-l will be more powerfull :_(
I bought the extra ones because they are now officially my wife and l’s bedside flashlights. She has one on her side and I have one on my side! I don’t know the stock lumen output.
Ken
My bedside flashlight is just Sipik SK68 
ok, now this are my most powerfull light 18 amp and more than 120w
I have use temperature switch for temperature step down
and the east-92 driver with more mosfets
18.08 amp with 8.4v, around 120w ( at 18 amp the true voltage at the leds are around 6.7-6.8v not 8.4v the true power are 120w not 150w )
I have used 2x aw18650 imr 1600mah in series with spring mod and 4 trustfire “3000 mah”
this flashlight its nice but i don’t like 2 things: no side switch and 6 batteries are too much batteries
Moviles I always love your mods. They are always crazy bright and xtreme. Great info/how to do in those post too. Thanks :-)
now the east-92 is not in stock in fasttech but is possible to use one nanjg 105
I have use 4.7v zener
Dude, your a genius at growing up small drivers up into seriously big drivers. Loving your work. 
I want add one side switch, I need to find one very small reverse switch
the place of the switch must be the red circle the max diameter of the switch must be 9mm
max diameter 9 mm
I want to do something like this:
skay ray king “switch”:
I will place the side switch here:
I have found this one but its not reverse
I want one like the ultrafire c3 switch but smaller
some one know were to buy one very small reverse switch?
Could the Hyperboost run 12 x XML with 4 x 26650.
I really want to try this driver, but am a bit over my head and need some parameters. Also, will it operate with a momentary switch? I guess if it has only on and off, it needs a clicky.
I would say Hyperboost would be marginal for this application if you want to drive the LEDs at maximum current. Problem is Hyperboost has a 3200ma maximum output and 6000-7000ma maximum input current, which means essentially a maximum of around 200% boost in voltage to stay within those current limits. 4 x cells = 16.8 volts maximum but more likely 15 volts input under that kind of load. 12 x XML = at least 36 vf so more than 200% boost required (assuming you’re driving the LEDs at 3000ma). If you’re willing to drop down the drive current down to say 2000ma then I think it could work.
So what would be the optimum amount of XMLs to run with these combinations of cells?
3 x cells -
4 x cells -
5 x cells -
Thanks. This will really help me out.
Unfortunately I don’t think there is a simple answer, but in general terms boost drivers work best the closer the input voltage is to the output voltage. The bigger the difference the hotter the driver runs which results in less efficiency and potentially damage to the driver if not heatsinked well.
Hyperboost Technical has some great information including a section “Examples on how to calculate battery/LED combinations” about half way down the page. Right below that is a table that gives some examples for various input and output voltages and currents.
Hyperboost can handle 130 watts or more, but to achieve with 12 x XMLs I would think you’d need around 8 cells.
To obtain the best efficiency from boost drivers, the lowest possible step up is best. 3s voltage: 5 XM-Ls (possibly 4, but borderline), 4s voltage: 6 XM-Ls, 5s voltage: 7 XM-Ls
That’s my problem finding a proper light. If you find a light with 4/5 Series cells, they all come with a dozen + LEDs.
Hyprmtr.
I really want to do this mod, but I need to get it all designed in my head before I she'll out the bucks.
With the six cells in series, I understand how the trace is cut at the switch end, but have a question about the driver end.
Okay. The first set of cells from the switch contacts the copper braid that leads to the negative of the of the second set, down and across to the third set which makes contact with the driver positive.
My questions are: when you screw the battery tube into the head, doesn't the spring pressure on the cells rip that piece of braid out during the rotation, and even with the switch turned off how do you keep the cells from shorting when both positive cells touch the braid at the same time when your tightening it down. Your not unscrewing the switch plate from back and loading the cells from the rear every time, are you?
Any updates on this flashlight from either of the two modders? I just bought this flashlight. This is the only thread I could find on Google regarding the mod possibilities of this flashlight. Very interesting work.
here is another thread…
i am waiting on a second micro switch (from ebay) because one is not enough 
then i will go further with modding mine.
ledpower14 wrote:
Any updates on this flashlight from either of the two modders? I just bought this flashlight. This is the only thread I could find on Google regarding the mod possibilities of this flashlight. Very interesting work.
RaceR86 has an incredible mod too here.