I looked briefly at the MT1A. I'm think'n it's moddable, but can't be sure. It sure looks like a spit'n image of the TG06. They tried to copy it, but minor differences I can see. Internally, could be totally different. NiteCore's in general are moddable, but some can be extreme challenges - all depends.
Only way to change modes would be a driver replacement or MCU replacement, like what Everett did with the MT1C here: CPF-Nitecore-MT1C-mod.
I much prefer high qual budget host lights, generally much more mod friendly than the big name brands.
I did a couple other AA size lights with XP-L's: ThruNite T10 (old style), UniqueFire G10. Both turned out awesome! You may lose a bit of throw or potential throw, but the lumens, and tint of your choosing is pretty incredible. WIth the T10, I kept the stock driver - was good enough as is.
I finally got around to modding my TG06. I must say, it’s darn near perfect.
The first thing I did was swap out the awful green tail boot for a black one. Then I used a shaved Nichia 219c, and a 17mm PZL driver (sanded to fit) with 6x7135’s,switchable between 3 or 4.modes.
I’m really impressed with the build of this little light. It’s well thought out and feels just as solid as a bigger light. Heatsinking is as good as you could expect, the anti-roll ring is a nice touch, the clip is solid and reverses to the front (so you can clip it to a hat), it tailstands perfectly, and did I mention it’s tiny? The only issue I ran into was I just couldn’t get solder to stick to the pill to hold the driver in. I eventually figured out that the battery tube holds the driver in perfectly, so it ended up being a non-issue.
It’s the perfect EDC mod-host in my opinion: much more compact than an 18650 light, but much better performance than a 10440 light.
Soldering to brass can be tricky for sure - you have to have the surface clean pretty good - isop. alcohol, maybe light sanding, also flux and heat is the key - I'll usually hold to iron on the brass for a couple of secs first when I'm trying to get solder to bond to it.
What's a PZL driver? I'm finding references, even a link that doesn't work (no direct post #). Links to posts don't ever work for me...
My problem was that I didn’t want to sand my driver any more than necessary, so I sanded down the ID of the pill. That didn’t leave me with enough of a surface for the solder to stick to without gunking up the threads.
Wow, this is a good host. I put one of RMM’s 15mm FET drivers (NO SANDING) in flashed with Guppydrv rev1 and could not be happier.
I have tried the XPL HI V3 2B, Nichia 219C and now an XPL V6 3D like TomE has.
The XPL HI (one of my favorites) did not produce as big a change on throw/tight spot as it did in the BLF A6.
I swapped it out to the Nichia 219C, WOOOO hot in about 5 seconds (I do not have the extra copper in mine like TomE has)… Even though Guppydrv has a reprogrammable Turbo Timer, the ramp down still left the light pretty hot with a five second turbo timer.
The current emitter is a V6 3D XPL from a BLF A6 (swapped the 219C into it, beautiful, but another story) and It is the one I will be staying with. Beautiful tint first of all, but the pure amount of light is incredible out of something this small. I can set the turbo time out to about 15 seconds and it gets warm/stays warm during the ramp down, but is useable.
I also shoehorned in a shaved Nanjg 105C 3A driver into another TG06, it works, but you cannot screw the battery tube all the way down… That driver also does not have a turbo step down, so I hit up RMM’s store for another FET driver…
I wonder if I could shave down a BLF A6 driver to fit? That would be sweet too…
BUt now the price is 22,82$…with discount on 11.11 is 11,41$
It’s a false discount because when I’ve saw it, was 11,41$ without any kind of offert/deal!!! |(
The photos are of the old version (GITD tailcap button and bezel o-ring), but the description suggests the new version (H-M-L instead of L-H-M order). So who knows? Not the seller.
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