FRESHLY RELEASED M21H with 519a 5700k is here. Iâll do some measurements then eventually dedome it. Whatever @Simon_Mao is using for shipping, itâs an unprecedented 5 days from China to LA. 3 days China to US, 2 days US airport to Los Angeles home, Amazon watch out!
BTW it comes with powerful tabless Reliance RS50 battery. The battery has no ID marking; yet another mystery battery. Thereâll be a battery shoot-out Christmas day to help determine how good it is.
Iâd love to see some beam shots of the m21h, also interested in seeing it with 4x219b (especially how it compares to an S21D or something where the emitters have individual TIRs)
Great question. First pls keep in mind both S21D and M21H have multiple TIR âangleâ optics available for both lights, which one you use will affect the beam.
Because the beam is most rosy with more floody TIR, and because I prefer more floody beam for the close up work I use these lights for, yet still have some central brightness, I used the next to most floody TIR in each light, namely 30 bead for S21D and 24 for M21H.
For the sake of objective observation, no labeling for now. Against a pure white background. All pictures shot in raw, white balance held at 5000k. The beam shots do look very similar to my eyes, but you might see subtle difference in tint.
Nice one thanks! How would you say the shape of the beams compare? Have you tried any of the throwier TIRs?
Does the picture below answer your question? For M21H, the narrowest angle TIR you could use is 12°, resulting in throw of 175m. The widest is 36°, with throw being 115m. For me, in actual use, throw is limited even with the most throwy TIR, and these quad 219b are most useful for close up work.
The beam is good - nothing weird like those 1 km superthrowers. Hot spot then soft transition to not so bright spill. There are wind-spinner shadows in the spill as expected with multi emitter TIR, more with S21D than M21H, but really visible only at close distance white walling. No problem in actual use, for me.
BTW, the improved rosiness with wider angle TIR is most obvious in my laptop with OLED screen, not as much with LCD screen - YMMV. Look at 3° versus 36°.
Cross section shots S21D vs M21H, both with 219b, unlabeld. I could kinda see, aided by AB white -wall comparison, one is more rosy than the other. The left one. But it is also more floody, which does make beam more rosy (measureable with Duv).
The difference is so slight that without repeated AB comparison with white-walling, I would not be able to guess which light is which.
Of note AFAIK S21D has Buck 3v 8a driver, whereas M21H has Boost 6v 5a driver.
I have a couple new comers from Emisar, DA1K with NTG50 4200k, and D4K with 519a 4500k. Nichia 419a 4500k is a LED that is no longer made and is currently available in very, very few lights, the D4K being one. Being the OCD collector that I am, this purchase was a no brainer.
When Hank decides to give Toykeeper a light to try, you KNOW itâs not gonna be a dud. In fact more likely an all-star. And all-star it is, currently the 1st item on Toykeeperâs Favorite Light List.
Both lights have the excellent/highly desireable Lume X1 driver from loneoceans. This is a Boost driver with max 40 wats, and is icluded in price of DA1k, but is a $12 option for D4K. To me another no brainer purchase.
First shot I took of NTG50 (more to come) with some of the most âhighly regardedâ tint snob LEDs. I know better than to describe what I see, since a bunch of disagreeing posts surely would follow. Color perception is subjective.
All I would like to say is this picture explains why I collect every LED in every type of reflector. None looks exactly like another.
OTOH, if you think this NTG50 beam in someway resembles the famous 219b sw45k (far right vs far left), I wouldnât disagree LOL. (219b sw45k is out of production and bare LED no longer available btw, but some Convoy lights, S12, M21H, S21D, still have it.)
The main problem with the NTG50 and other similar FFL LEDs is that theyâre way too rosy.
We swung the pendulum way too far.
A few comments regarding the DA1K host:
The button: What I ordered was metal button, flat retaining ring, stainless steel bezel, bronze finish. The button feel is ok only. It is short on travel and a little mushy, to me anyway (YMMV). I still prefer Firefly button, which I think is the best among all the light brands I have (again, YMMV).
Optic: Default is N261S clear optic, which results in a throwy beam. I also ordered the âwide angle 10394â optic, which I assume means more floody beam, but havenât tried it yet.
Lume X1 driver: This is a Boost driver (6v, 9v, 12v) with max output of 40 watts. The result is an impressive ~2700 lm at Turbo for DA1K with NTG50 4200k. This much output in this small light means fast thermal regulation though.
Sure. If someone prefers neutral tint, then I would stay away from any FFL LED with the designation rosy.
Keep in mind FFL has different LED batches with different tints, some not rosy. You are seeing the most rosy tint of their LEDs because of my preference and curiosity.
NTG50 is no where near the rosy level of FFL351A for example. Essentially creamy white with a very slight hint of pink in the hotspot. I personally prefer it to an excellent but more neutral tint LEDs like 519a 4500k, and appreciate the effort to give customers more choices.
My latest 2 Emisars both have this. It comes as default with DA1K, but for D4K is a $12 option and of course extremely highly recommended.
Before Lume X1 becomes available on Emisar, Hank used a different type of Boost driver for D4K, a non-Lume 24 watts Boost.
Thatâs for Boost, if Buck is needed, Lume has a driver called:
Lume1: Itâs a 3v Buck driver, with FET for Turbo. With Anduril, level 1-149 is Buck, level 150 is FET Turbo. In short, Lume1=Buck, Lume X1=Boost. (AFAIK from surfing the web, anyone pls correct as needed.)
And some numbers. Beam shots to follow, but the Duv is consistent with my subjective observation: throwy beam, with a creamy hotspot that has a slight rosiness tint.
Oddly, this âslight rosinessâ is actually very similar to my cherrished 219b sw45k, and not nearly as much as the VERY rosy FFL351A (great for rosy lover, too much for ânormalâ people LOL).
Output is very impressive at 2700 lm, from 40 watts of boost driver Lume X1. In this small light it means thermal regulation is going to take over rather quickly.
Emisar DA1K w/ NTG50 4200k
Lume X1 Driver, Green Reflection AR lens, Metal Button
With N261S TIR Throw Optic: (Vs 10394 Wide Optic)
Output 2740 lm w/ EVE 40PL, 2730 w/ JP40-AM40
Output at each level: 0-5-36-168-448-926-1744
CCT 4200k @ Turbo
Duv -0.0095 @ Turbo
With the default N261S TIR Throwy optic, the beam is throwy as expected, with a clear hotspot and spill, versus for example my M21H 219b sw45k with 60 degree TIR that shows a more homegeneous field. Throwy beam is better as a walk light, less friendly for closeup work around the house, is how I think of it.
ANSI Throw @ 30 sec is 272m
CD/LM approximately 11.
Also some approximate (APPROXIMATE!! YMMV) info from the web regarding CD/LM numbers:
0.1 cd/lm: light bulb
1-3: flooder
5-15: balanced EDC-style beam
30: compact thrower
100: dedicated thrower; 500+: extreme thrower
10000: laser-LEP
My humble opinions (YMMV): To my eyes, NTG50 4200k joins 3 other LEDs to make the list of 4 most âbeautifulâ beam colors in my collection. DESCRIPTION: 219b is 219b, the rosy OG lol; B35AM has fantastic light-yellow creamy color beam, more neurtral tint; E04âs FFL505 is my number one ranked walk light, rosy but not too rosy like some other Firefly LEDs.
When NTG50 is used with a throwy TIR, the hotspot dominates the beam and appears creamy-white, not harsh-white, with an extremely appealing rosiness that doesnât distract. Bougainvilla red flowers appear saturated, super pretty.
This LED gets my very highest recommendation. A must-try if you ever wonder what a top notch LED with super high CRI and super great color rendition looks like.
I should add that 2 additional FANTASTIC LEDs could easily joint the SOTA (state of the art) list above:
1. Getian GT-FC40 4500k: Beautiful beam color that in real life totally imitates 219b 4500k, except more throwy in Convoy M21B/E/F host. Unfortunately latter production of this LED appears to have a tint-lottery problem, as in a completely more positive and worse tint (I have one of this black sheep). If you have the original LED, hold on to it like dear life. Collectible! 
2. Nichia 519a 5700k Dedomed: Once dedomed mine measures 4100k CCT, and Duv in the minus 0.0060 to 0.0075 range depending on output. The popularity of this LED dedomed is evidence of how superior and less greenish the tint is once dedoming is done (completely subjective, YMMV). I LOVE the rosy tint, but if you like a more neutral tint, donât dedome.
As Nichia discontinues production of two iconic LEDs , 219b 4500k and 519a 4500k, we see the arrival of equally great high CRI LEDs from Firefly and Hank. Doesnât it seem like a changing of the guards, and ending of an era?
And the new comer is no slouch, check this NTG50 4200k: Duv -0.0095, Ra 97, BEAUTIFUL rosy tint, and the output, 2700 lm 
. With beam shots that look eerily similar to 219b 4500k to my eyes (YMMV). A MUST-HAVE LED (imho) that I would recommend without reservation, without fear lol.
PS And if you prefer a more neutral tint, Firefly should have choices to choose from (I donât follow these LEDs though; I prefer rosy LEDs).
I feel my SOTA state of the art list is incomplete without 2 more LEDs, GT-FC40 4500k and the popular dedomed version of 519a 5700k DD. So here they are, 6 of my most cherished LED.
The list reflects my own bias/preference for 4000-4500k CCT, and rosy tint. All have CRI>90, for example B35AM sporting a cool Ra 98, R9 99 per Simon.
B35AM and GT-FC40 4500k, with Duv in the -0.0030 to -0.0050, are the most neutral looking of this group (less rosy, still no trace of green). All the LEDs excel at making colors appear saturated, and beautiful, and have my very highest recommendation, without fear :=). All IMHO as always.
Tint aside - M21B did a spectacular job focusing such large emitter as GT-FC40.
In retrospect I really like the âsymmetryâ of my SOTA list. Left side are the new comers:
Right side LEDs are the OGâs 
from the âhallowedâ house of Nichia, of course including the LED that started it all for many including me, 219b sw45k :
Any LED from this list is recommended without reservation, IMHO as always.