In a moment of weakness, I ordered my second S21D with 219b sw45k. Nichia ceased production of the particular 4500k version (weird - singling out enthusiasts to punish?) and lights with this LED are bound to become extinct. Indeed Simon no longer has the bare LED to sell, causing my collector mentality to go into alarm mode.
Yes this light has an incomplete thermal algorithm and gets too hot; NOT good for muggles. But using outside in cooler evening, it has worked fine for me. I actually bought it because of the sustained brightness.
Maybe in a few years, I may price-gouge it on eBay .
Yep also gone, the 4500k one. Simon has crossed out the bare LED’s availablity from his web site. Lights with this LED have started to disappear from most vendors.
Strange how just this CCT is ax’ed, for both 519a and 219b. I almost feel singled out . 4500k is my favorite CCT, not too warm, not too cool, perfecty placed on the yellow-blue CCT axis. For me anyway.
I have the exact same light, and yes, I have many tint-snob lights but this one is among my most favorites. I also have it in S21E, and believe or not, H2. Simon puts it in a headlamp, so what am I supposed to do but buy.
I don’t know who are buying these antique low power Nichia LEDs, but it seems the 2 lights I bought with 519a 4500k just a few weeks ago are no longer available with this LED. (Anyone pls correct me as needed.)
Convoy S21E
Emisar D4K
The only place that I see 519a 4500k anymore seems to be JLHawaii for D4K, but you will pay a bit more. The same light with the same options seems to be 40 buck more expensive than my $70 D4K. That’s the red light below.
Flashlights break, so I am now loading up on 219b 4500k. I am stopping at two M21H’s and two S21D’s though. That’s nutty/OCD enough .
We were discussing whether the TN3535 6500k LED in new Wurkkos TS26 has a green tint, and the excerpt below was what I posted. Just moving it here in more appropriate thread.
I do find greenish tint much less offensive (and personally, more desirable than a too purple tint) at high CCT, say above 5500K.
In fact, the reference sources for >5000K is no longer the neutral blackbody illuminant, but the D (daylight) series standard illuminants, which naturally have positive duv on the order of +0.003. So a truly neutral source at such a high CCT would actually be unnaturally pink.
For those new to this hobby: when measuring a beam, the light meter gives x (horizontal axis) and y (vertical axis) points on this diagram. This same point, instead of being some x, y numbers, could also be represented by CCT and Duv, which makes it easier to visualize the color of the beam.
Why easier? My amateur knowledge: The CCT, generally, runs along what is sometimes referred to as the (horizontal) yellow-blue axis. Yellow to the right (low CCT) and blue to the left (high CCT). So when I hear 2700k, I know the beam will be more yellow than blue for example.
The Duv generally runs along what’s sometimes referred to as the (vertical) green-magenta axis. Green towards the top (hence positive Duv) and magenta at bottom (that famous rosy tint of 219b). When I hear Duv of (NEGATIVE) -0.0090, I know the beam is towards the magenta/pink area, giving that rosy tint of Nichia and Firefly LEDs.
Although I prefer rosy tint and get nauseous (jk) with severe green tint, it is very much a matter of personal preference. IMHO no wrong or right when it comes to “colors”.
Why? As an example, if a reviewer is discussing a LED and he tells you the beam color is x=0.3600 and y=0.3450, only the nuttiest of us would have any inkling what it looks like.
But if he says CCT is 4500k and Duv-0.0090, then immediately some color not too yellow not too icy blue with rosy tint could come to mine.
The best corollary I’ve seen: it’s the difference between telling a friend your house’s address is 35 Main Street, versus its latitude and longitude.
It’s really like Cartesian versus polar coordinates. Sometimes (say on a chessboard or a city grid) you want coordinates in a row-column, rectilinear way: go to the intersection between 34th St and 5th Ave. Sometimes (say in an open field) it’s much more natural to use direction and magnitude: go 30 degrees north of west for 500 meters.
Coincidentally the same two numbers, CCT and Duv, determine a crucial parameter in photography, the white balance setting.
Below is screen shot of my RAW processing software, Capture 1, showing a Kelvin/CCT slider and a Tint/Duv slider. For years I’ve used the sliders to achieve correct, or desireable (“artistic intent”), white balance setting.
Should have but didn’t make the connection that these parameters are a thing for nutty flashaholics.
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would have any inkling what it looks like.