Pictures have been updated in the first post.
I still need to figure out which led and how many amps to put to it. It's either an XM-L or a Nichia. Got to figure that out today or tomorrow.
Awesome as always!
I love your 1 d’s and this one looks exceptional
Quote "My cuts are no better than anyone else's. They will need a lot of work to be straight." I believe that hack was put into the naming of this saw for a very good reason. Nice work as usual. Cheers.
why not make something similar to what they use to cut steerer tubes on bike forks
then you just have to snug the light barrel into the guide, clamp it into your vise and saw away like a coked up monkey for a few seconds, followed by some light finishing. I’ve used one a few times when I’ve fitted new forks and getting a square straight cut is as easy as it gets. I’m sure you’d use it enough to make it worthwhile to make/ buy.
Beautiful looking light, yet again, by the way 
The sad thing, for me, is that his cuts look better by hand than my bandsawed attempts...
Good stuff, O-L.
I agree, the oldb____r is not bad.
Nichia 219 soldered to copper, direct driven. That would be tricky but epic.
0:)
Are the joints then epoxied after fitting then ? what do you use for that ?
That looks like a neat tool! Thanks for the heads up.
No epoxy. I try to fit them so tight that they are press fit. That way I don’t need epoxy and maintain a good ground contact. I’ve even had to do cold on one side, hot on the other, to get them together, but I prefer just a press fit where I use a rubber mallet to put them together.
Yes, “Hack Saw”, I thing that says it all. Hack saw, Hack file, Hack hammer, LOL. A hack a day keeps the doctor away.
I've been working on the lathe (dremel) and thought I would show you how this goes. This is one of the inside cuts, where I open the ID of a piece of tube. It's come out well and fairly uniform. The point is, if you have a rotary tool, or can get one for cheap (I get mine from Amazon for about $30), you can do a lot of things with a little patience and a "good eye".
I did some checking all around the thin lip with the calipers, just to see. High to low, it's .010" difference and if I cut out the high and low, it's .006" difference overall. Now that's way too much for a lathe, but by hand, with a dremel? I think it's as good as it gets. You can do more than you think you can with a little patience and some time. By "good eye", I mean you need to be able to see .010" or less, or you have to do a lot of measuring. I start out with a "4" setting (out of 1-10), on the dremel and do all the heavy cutting. When I get to finishing the last few thousandths, I go up to "6" and use a lighter touch, to complete the cutting and smoothing.
Oh, if you can convince your wife that this is 6"x2", then not only do you have a good eye, you have a good wife too. LOL.
? hacksaw Ever try it with a pipe/tubing cutter?
http://www.harborfreight.com/no-2-pipe-cutter-5982.html
If I tried using a hacksaw it would look like a sugar scoop! :bigsmile:
allthumbs
"A little patience", How bout alot of patience. :P Here a picture of my failed 1D is.
you’re welcome. Takes about 20s to make a perfectly parallel cut in an inch’n’eigth steerer
Maglite body is look beyewtiful, can’t wait to see the finished product. These posts keep my enthusiasm alive for modding my Maglite one day!
Build is done, see the rest of the photos in post #1.
Awesome build. Does it tailstand? :P (just kidding)
I LOVE your Foyshots :love: that was really funny. :D