I’m really looking forward to the D1s, I love my 3 D4 and my D1. The D1 does better than it has any right to as far as I can tell. Nice midrange thrower with usable spill. I’m really impressed with hank’s emisar line.
I vote for an all copper D1. 
Got my Green D1 today, XP-L HI V3 3A. Absolutely LOVE it!
Here’s the Emisar D1 beside a Manker Godmes T01
With an Aspire 1300mAh 18350 I get 0.7935 lumens in the lowest setting and 1248.9 lumens at the highest. With an Sony VTC5A I get 1462.8 lumens at the highest with a current draw of 6.56A out of the box. (still doing 1345.5 at 30 seconds)
My D4, also green is now happily done experimenting and has 4 XP-E2 Green emitters. A full onslaught of green. lol
Ordered a couple of days ago, with Nichia and floodier optics!
Well, I kinda had ta make some changes…
Aspire 1300mAh 18350
0.02A for 0.9315 lumens
7135 0.33A for 151.8 lumens
4.57A for 1552.8 lumens, 1400.7 at 30 seconds
Sony VTC5A
0.02A for .9315 lumens
7135 0.33A for 151.8 lumens
6.16A for 1735.35 lumens, 1604.25 at 30 seconds
I put 22ga wire bypasses top and bottom and then swapped out the emitter for an XP-L W2 1D on a 20mm Noctigon.
Y’all are makin’ me jealous. Gelatinous, even.
I finally got a shipping notice though… should have an Emisar package on Monday.
The short tube seems a bit ridiculous on a D1. It’ll be fun to see how silly it looks on a D1S. 
> Unless Hank invents something even cooler.
Anyone got an idea about using glow-in-the-dark paint? Or a way to anodize with a GITD material?
You’re right TK, the short tube looks pretty NEAT ridiculous on the fatter head of the D1, so I dug out my bored D4 long tube and fitted it to my new D1. So now the hand filling D1 takes a 20700A cell and makes 1783.65 lumens at start, the same 1604.25 at 30 seconds. Should be substantially more run time, might have to bore it ever so slightly more so my Efest 20700’s will fit. 
(I’m back to our local University colors of Green and Gold. )
Does it get hot? Notice the Carolina Reaper plant in the background? lol
Man, the gains come hard in this one! I pulled the FET and replaced it with a Vishay SIRA20DP, now it makes 1818.15 lumens at start on a freshly charged Sanyo NCR20700A. Rds On time on this is down to a very miserly .006 as compared to .013 of the SIR404DP, which in turn is better than the SIR800DP. Not much left to gain here, this FET can deliver up to and over 160A so it should fare well in triple and quad set-ups as well.
That reaper plant got big! Last time I saw it, it was barely a sprout…
About the D1/D4 though… yeah, gains aren’t easy to achieve. It’s pretty close to maxed-out in stock form.
I’m seeing 356 lumens gain, perhaps the Sanyo 20700A isn’t as capable as the Sony VTC5A? I’ll try the 5A and see how it compares now that there are no springs and the FET has been changed….
Edit: A fresh-off-the-charger C5A at 4.21V does 1780 lumens at start, 38 lumens behind the larger 20700, so they’re pretty darn close.
The reaper was up to 18” when I cut the top off the other day to encourage branching in an effort to increase yield. I should have looked closer at the tiny leaves, it was about to branch on it’s own. 
Epsom Salt , a tablespoon per gallon of water, really encourages a strong plant and vigorous growth. (As it so happens, Epsom Salt isn’t salt at all, it’s Magnesium Sulfate. Magnesium and Sulfur both are vital to pepper plants to encourage strong cell walls and a healthy plant. They also need Calcium, but not Nitrogen, which will encourage foliage but the plant won’t bloom. Learning a lot in this process. As usual. Stuff like… the Carolina Reaper is a variety of pepper plant that is perennial, they fare well kept in a pot for 4 years or more. Don’t know if I can stand that many peppers at this level. lol)
This is screenshot from a video I made for my X80 flashlight.
It is XP-G2 S4 3D 4885K on M43. Sorry I don’t have D4 comparison for u. 
myflashguy, thanks so much !!! This was what I needed, to see how the tint looks. Despite it is on a different light, I can have a glimpse of it!
Now I’m more informed about all the available tints and I can decide… Just don’t know which one yet :person_facepalming:
The Nichia seems to get hotter, the XP-G2 tints are not so nice as the Nichia’s and have the most sag, and I don’t want the XPL-HIs…
Oh well, decisions…
Thanks again :+1:
For Toy Keeper, I apologize in advance if this has already been addressed, but are there any plans to revise D4 firmware to smooth out the heat based step downs? Right now you see definite steps and I thought I read somewhere that you had new code to make this almost imperceptible just don’t if this will eventually end up in the lights Hank and Mtn sell. Love the cyan and the high CRI. Have the green and earlier 219C. Still GREAT light. Just thought I would ask and if it is going to happen at some point, will hold off on second light. Thanks for all you do TK. Cheers!
I also found Edness posted his M43 Nichia 219C (Left) & XP-G2 S4 3D (Right) on BLF with nicer XP-G2 beamshot just to make you more difficult to decide :smiling_imp:
Hank, any plans for a hot pink D4? Wife keeps pinching my Nichia.
apparently we are the only one who are interested in D7.
btw what is the different between D1 and D1s?
D1S has a bigger reflector. Light looks a bit like a C8. It should do about 120k lux. No doubt more people are interested in the D7… but there’s just no news about it. I just hope by mentioning the D7 someone will post a picture of it. Like now is a good time to post a picture of it please!
That’s a very strange beamshot for a 3D tint emitter. What was the white balance set to?
The 3D tint is many things, but it is not green. Some find the ~4850K tint too cold, and prefer ~4000K more. A small handful find it too warm, and prefer 5500K or 6000K. But one thing people generally agree on is that any off-white in its beam is reddish… not green.
It’s the closest Cree tint to the slightly rosy high-CRI 219B emitter almost everyone loves. (and its neighbor 4A is the closest to the slightly rosy 219A tint)
Unless it was dedomed before the beamshot. That would make it warm and greenish. For example, here are some beamshots comparing a 219c 5000K (on the right) to a D4vn (on the left) which I think may have been a 3D tint before it was dedomed:
(left = D4vn, right = D4 219c 5000K)
These pictures were taken with “daylight” white balance.
The code is already written and working pretty well. Smoother thermal regulation is one of several dozen things I improved since D4v2. I don’t know if/when it will go into production though. I’m pretty sure Hank doesn’t want new firmware every month. Even I don’t bother updating firmware on all my lights every month; it’s kind of a pain so I try to do it only rarely.
It’s possible there could be a ‘D4 V3’ with enhancements, but I don’t think it will happen for a while. Hank is busy with other things. However, you don’t have to wait; you can reflash it yourself if you want.
Here’s a graph of the regulation working in a newer version. Adjustments still stop only at ramp steps, but they’re done gradually to make it difficult to see, instead of all at once like in D4v2.
