Even dedomed a 3D has verry little green.
I too am interested in the D7. Not so much the D1 and D1s. I find floodier lights more useful for myself.
The soupcan design is quickly becoming my favorite for around the house. Lots of light over a wider area, looooong runtimes at lower and frankly more realistic levels, harder to misplace, super-stable to talistand and they just look impressive. I think I’ll appreciate the D7 with its 3 cells design. It oughta be a bit easier to handle and still have the benefits I mentioned above.
Please send pics of the D7!!! Thanks.
Samsung Note 5 WB/5000K to my eyes it is slightly yellow/warmer tint at lower output not green. :innocent:
You bet on that :person_facepalming: 
Although I’m not a tint “snob”, I’m starting to pay attention to those aspects, and want to make a good choice!
This photo is better to judge the tint, I guess. As TK said, the first one seemed more to the greenish side…
I’ll probably get one of these, not “pure” neutral nor warm white!
Thanks again for the photos myflashguy :+1:
Thanks for the explanation TK 
That, along with the photos and explantion and maukka information…I guess I can relate and make a decision!
Thanks again :nerd_face:
Dale they are indeed salts. Sodium and chlorine aren’t the cation/anion combo to make a salt. In fact, virtually any acid will react with any base to form a salt that is the combo of the negative and positive portions of both. My b.s. In Biochemistry made me post since I am almost always lost when FL modding is the topic.
Am I allowed to post a link from CPF to show a tint comparison or is it better not to do that :question:
^
You sure can. Linking to other forums is not restricted or frowned upon here.
Work D4 doing a few poses(trying that new portrait mode out on latest apple update)…………ok any excuse!
Thanks for the answer
I don’t know if this will help others to decide on the tint, but I made my final final decision based on this comparison (after the above images kindly posted by myflashguy and TKs explanation, well and after seeing the other images posted on this and other threads)
Here’s the link: Noctigon Meteor M43 | Candle Power Flashlight Forum
Here’s the image (credits: user amaretto of CPF):
BTW, I’m going for the XP-G2 S4 3D 4885K :partying_face:
Once again, thanks! :+1:
Another slightly higher output beamshot I took awhile ago just to show u that lower & higher output beamshot can sometimes look different
Thanks myflashguy
Hum…I guess I’ll love it :heart_eyes:
Already ordered, black with XPG2 S4 3D, and the 18350 tube!
I was resisting, but I couldn’t hold any longer
I guess I’ll have to save the rest of the money for the FW3A :money_mouth_face: (please let it have the Anduril FW!!!)
Received my green Nichia today! Ordered 7/29 and received 9/30. Better late than never!
So what differences am I supposed to notice between the 5000k Nichia D4 and my 5000k XPL-HI D4?
Mostly, the XP-L HI should be throwier and the Nichia should be floodier (and hotter). Due to having more throw and more lumens, XP-L HI should look brighter at the same levels, while Nichia should make colors look a bit better with a more consistent white beam.
Nichia has the smaller die surface so it should, by definition, have more throw than the XP-L HI. The Nichia won’t make as many lumens and it’ll get hotter, but in the small TIR’s of the optic it should have a tighter (but still large) hot spot.
How much hotter is the Nichia vs the XP-l HI?
The Nichia emitter has a dome though, which makes its apparent size bigger. It’s the least-throwy of the three emitter types offered in this light, slightly behind XP-G2 and well behind XP-L HI. Measurements are in the first post. 
… 5 peppers vs 2 peppers?
…
I don’t have a way to measure and graph temperature over time, but if anyone else here does, the results would be interesting to see.
Men shave, razors annihilate domes. Throw changes.
Does the XP-L HI throw more because of die size or sheer emissions? Not apples to apples surely. At similar lumens levels I wonder….
Edit: Point in fact, My Texas Poker has had numerous emitters in it’s 4 1/2 years of existence. It now has the Nichia 219C at 5000K for a very good reason, the XP-L HI did not perform well in this light. The reflector, I am told, is from Dereelight but I have never been able to find it in Dereelights catalog of parts. At any rate, in this custom made light the Nichia 219 reigns supreme.
2 peppers can still burn you. 
I can see the beam of my XP-L HI 3A even after it steps down twice in the full turbo 18 feet wallshot of my Nichia
definitely higher lumen and throwier(sic)
I feel it’s worth the extra $
Does the heat greatly affect it’s performance? IE much shorter time on turbo, reduced runtime, so hot you’re unable to hold it?