I had all the discussed emitters in my D4, starting with XP-G2, then XP-L HI, then Nichia 219 and then Nichia 319. I put 219’s back in it after the 319’s because I disliked the beam profile from the newer Nichia. Ultimately I chose to use XP-E2 Green emitters for the uniqueness of them. Given my experience with this light, I would choose the 219 if it were about power and beam profile, color and cost.
That’s just me of course. I may get another D4 and put sliced SST-40’s in it just because.
Shorter time on turbo, increased runtime because it regulates down sooner and lower, and the initial turbo blast may well make it too hot to hold for up to a minute.
All of these can easily get too hot to hold though… which is why the regulation is so aggressive.
Gracias.
> too hot to hold
I wonder how hot the battery gets — remembering that heat cycling is one of the ways of rapidly aging a cell.
Iffn I can hold that skinny tube, then I can’t see the battery suffering more than me
actually, the head is the killer, the battery tube on the 18650 is not burning me… at my setting anyway
the 18350 obviously heats quicker
butt you will be notified!
From maukka:
I had to mod up the D1, couldn’t really mod it down. You should see my little Chopped X5 that runs on a 14250 IMR cell. It runs a 219C and is a surprisingly potent little handful of light. 
Might have fun figuring out ways to mod the D1 yet, I have this piece of bronze laying here…. perhaps I could use 2 18350’s and an XHP-50.2… Hmmmmm…… would a Zener mod work the same on this driver as what I’m used to?
I’ll just leave this here:
Zener isn’t recommended for e-switch lights. It has too much parasitic drain. An LDO could probably work in place of the Zener though.
Also, if you do this, you’ll need to add a voltage divider somewhere, and I’ll need to add support for that in the firmware.
Or, I don’t think anyone has tried this yet, but I bet one could just use a voltage divider on VCC and skip the Zener/LDO entirely… and as a bonus, it wouldn’t need a separate pin to measure voltage.
So… long story short, it can be done but it’s a bit more work than some mods.
I do believe I have some TA boards that are set up for an LDO…
I have a multi-cell patch for D4v2 already working, and could probably apply something very similar to FSM… it makes the 7135 modes iffy though, because they don’t take the extra voltage well.
Think I’ll stick with an A6 driver, Zener modified, tail lockout. Much simpler and it will do what I want. After all, it powers my L6 to 9200 lumens and the ramping works fine. Should be adequate for the D1 with an 50.2.
OMG, the Nichia gets nuclear! The thermal regulation kicks in almost at the same time as the XPL HI but the 219C gets hot a helluva a lot quicker. I tested it a couple of times and both times, the regulation kicks in within a couple of seconds of each other and steps down similarly as well. The Nichia steps down to almost moonlight though whereas the XPL only steps down to just slightly under the 7135 limit. But when I cooled them down and twisted the cap to go full regulated for a couple of minutes, neither got warm to the touch.
They’re both supposed to be 5000K but the 219C is slightly warmer in color. Like the XPL HI is 5000-5500K and the 219C is 4500-5000K. And color rendition difference is just meh. 219C seems to make colors pop a little more but can’t tell if it’s because it’s slightly warmer.
I prefer warm tint for working up close but I think I like the XPL HI better because I can endure the pain for awhile longer and it looks more impressive with an intensely wide, white hotspot and beam. The 219C gets too hot too fast and anything above 50% just doesn’t seem usable. Is there any way to limit brightness?
UserM4, you need to try out the xp-g2 4000k for 2 reasons, very nice slightly on the warm side colour temp/tint and does not get as toasty as fast. It is very easy on the eye, my fav for night time close up uses!
Up to now, dont ramp past 50%, not the answer your looking for i know. Sure TK is or has worked on that and will be in future firmware. :sunglasses:
Ven, if you were to choose between the Nichia 219B 4000K in the Jaxman E2 and the XP-G2 4000K in the D4, what would it be and why?
Damn now you are asking! I dont have a Jaxman but have multiple 219b triples/quad in several flavours( 4000-5000k), 219c’s from 4000k also.
I am a bit of a sucker for nichia even though not as bright(219b 4000k), but CT/tint and beam quality come above total brightness in my priorities.So the 219b 4000k would pip the 4000k xp-g2. Now the latter i have in the D4, malkoff,EDC plus triple which are all 4000k g2’s.
Nichia 219b’s off the top of my head, 3 sportac triples, quad 219b 4000k, another triple 219b 4 mode and 219b triple in the haiku. So i do have more 219b’s triples/quads than the xp-g2’s.
Up there is the 4000k xpl HI, this is another super nice colour temp/tint imo……….defo worth a look if you dont have that flavour.
On to the D4 4000k, its easier on my eyes and prefer it to the 5000k 219c at night . Just gives everything a hint of warmth without discolouring lighter colours too much. During the day, work type applications then i prefer the cleaner tint of the 219c over the 219b 4000k and xp-g2 4000k . So depending on my use/application depends on the colour temp i choose to use(other factors as well depending on actual subjects/conditions).
You are totally right Ven. For what it’s worth, I’ve tried the 5000k xpg2( which is a bit warmer than the 5000k nichia) and now the 4000k in my D4. In daytime the 4000k is to warm, but during the night (when I use my lights) it is a real pleasure to work with.
It is a very subjective area Guezzz, many who are happy to use cool whites day and night time. I am sure it is effected by what ambient light your brain/eyes are adjusted to. As most house hold lights tend to be warm or towards warm, it feels more natural for me to use a light that is towards that way. My cut off is around 4000k as i find any warmer(although colours can look good), it effects lighter colours too much(again all subjective, so just my personal findings).
The 5000k xp-g2(or most 5000k type temps) work really well for me in my work. Around, under and inside! machinery of all types. Cold metals and bland colours that could not pop easy no matter what lol. So a higher CRI yet a cleaner type beam works best for me, the 4500k 219b actually works well also even though a very slight hint of warm. It does not distract too much and can ease the bland colours that can be made super pail with 6000+kelvin. One thing worse for me than washed out colours…………washed out colours with a blue tinge! :confounded:
Thanks for the your answer ven. All my Crees are CW, and my Nichias are 4000K to 5000K. After trying the Nichias, I am not really interested in buying other emitters anymore. The only Cree that I have purchased recently is an XHP35 HI CW thrower. I haven’t tried the NW XP-G2 that’s why I had to ask. I am comfortable using the warm 219B (R9050) in reading Nat Geo wall maps compared to 219C 5000K (in my D4). I guess this is due to the higher CRI in the 219b rather than the difference in tint, or I could be wrong. Anyway, I have to try the XP-G2 and see the difference for myself.
Your welcome, its always quite hard to recommend specific colour temps/LED’s, as there are so many variables(peoples taste being a major one). The xp-g2 4000k should be fine for you , its not over warm and does make things look great!
The xhp35 HI 5000k is very nice if you decide on another thrower or LED swap.
Let me know how you get on when you try out the g2 4000k :+1: