Satisfied, but the 3A tint is cooler than what I had expected. If I had to do it over, I think I would have gone one step warmer.
I’d prefer 3d but it seems a 3a is the closest I’ll find in a xp-l hi. I’m hoping one step cooler won’t add too much blue. The 2c and 3c xm-l2 I’ve had all seemed a bit greenish to my eyes. The 5c xhp70 I had and dust-spot burned was a decent balance but a bit too warm for me.
Just as a comparison, in lower modes (XML2 U2-1A > XPL-HI U6-3A > XML2 T6-4C) 
(Sorry for the not so good quality! Cellphone is in a bad mood this morning :person_facepalming: )
i found that XPL 4C is a bit too yellow, but for ceiling bounce i actually love it.
FYI, my old S2+ is XML2 T6-3B and it’s a lot warmer than this new Desert Tan 3A. I mean, a lot!
My XP-L HI U6 3A is also cooler than expected with the hotspot at 5400K. Slightly rosy tint (duv –0.002) is amazing though.
All measurements on max mode (8x7135) at about 30 sec.
The hotspot measures 2D bin, the spill 3C. Integrated it’ll probably land on the 3A.
I second that. I have a circular hole in the cloth of my computer chair done by an A6. IIRC, it took only a few seconds to burn through. The fabric is quite thin of course but I was still surprised at how quickly that happened. Fortunately, the melted nylon (or whatever it actually is) has so far kept the hole from expanding.
Holy, moly! What do you use to collect such data?
I guess the A6 is a lot different from the S2. I had my S2 facing down on a sheet of paper, and even after 10 minutes there was no smoking of any kind.
X-Rite i1Pro spectrophotometer.
Yes, the A6 draws about double the current as a 8x7135 driven light like the S2+. (Fully charged high-drain cells, of course.)
Still, quite surprising to me that it burns so quickly.
I wonder if a FET-driven C8 light could burn as easily? The deep reflector means anything you’re trying to burn is a lot further away from the LED than in a light like the BLF-A6 (or Convoy S2+). Also, the larger diameter reflector would probably spread out the heat and make it less intense.
Thanks! Do I read it correctly that its CRI is 73?
That’s right.
Got the 18350 tan tube yesterday! Time for a small pocket “thrower”! :sunglasses:
Uh, oh… that’s cool. I must add it to my shopping list. Did you get it from Simon/Ali Express? Got a link you can post?
Also, is that the OEM clip or are you using something different with the 18350 tube?
Yes, I bought it from Simon!
Here’s the link: Page Not Found - Aliexpress.com
The clip is just a regular S2+ clip (from Simon’s store) with 2 magnets and heatshrink tube. I gave some suggestions for these in this post!
It is very helpful to get it stuck in a metal surface for works or something else.
In the tail it has a magnet ring (also from Simon), and a bit of glow-in-the-dark adhesive tape to find it in the dark if lost!
And it also helps a lot :+1:
Thanks!
Are you able to measure the weight of regular S2+ DT with battery as well as the S2+ DT 18350 with battery? Curious to see the weight savings.
Also, how tall is it with the 18350 tube installed?
What do you prefer? 4C or 3A?
Is it correct that 4C is really more greenish than 3A?
3A for me, although I really like the warmer tints better, like 5D, but that’s not always an option.
And yes, in Cree’s tint binning xA & xD bins are above the bbl, which tend rosy. xB & xC bins are below, tending greenish. That doesn’t mean every emitter in those bins have those off-tints though. Some individual specimens in every bin will be close to the bbl and not have any cast at all, but if a given emitter drifts a bit, it’ll go in those directions.
i like 4C for outdoor and 3A for indoor. 3A still too white but 4c is borderline too yellow for me.