Thatās a very strange beamshot for a 3D tint emitter. What was the white balance set to?
The 3D tint is many things, but it is not green. Some find the ~4850K tint too cold, and prefer ~4000K more. A small handful find it too warm, and prefer 5500K or 6000K. But one thing people generally agree on is that any off-white in its beam is reddishā¦ not green.
Itās the closest Cree tint to the slightly rosy high-CRI 219B emitter almost everyone loves. (and its neighbor 4A is the closest to the slightly rosy 219A tint)
Unless it was dedomed before the beamshot. That would make it warm and greenish. For example, here are some beamshots comparing a 219c 5000K (on the right) to a D4vn (on the left) which I think may have been a 3D tint before it was dedomed:
(left = D4vn, right = D4 219c 5000K)
These pictures were taken with ādaylightā white balance.
The code is already written and working pretty well. Smoother thermal regulation is one of several dozen things I improved since D4v2. I donāt know if/when it will go into production though. Iām pretty sure Hank doesnāt want new firmware every month. Even I donāt bother updating firmware on all my lights every month; itās kind of a pain so I try to do it only rarely.
Itās possible there could be a āD4 V3ā with enhancements, but I donāt think it will happen for a while. Hank is busy with other things. However, you donāt have to wait; you can reflash it yourself if you want.
Hereās a graph of the regulation working in a newer version. Adjustments still stop only at ramp steps, but theyāre done gradually to make it difficult to see, instead of all at once like in D4v2.
I too am interested in the D7. Not so much the D1 and D1s. I find floodier lights more useful for myself.
The soupcan design is quickly becoming my favorite for around the house. Lots of light over a wider area, looooong runtimes at lower and frankly more realistic levels, harder to misplace, super-stable to talistand and they just look impressive. I think Iāll appreciate the D7 with its 3 cells design. It oughta be a bit easier to handle and still have the benefits I mentioned above.
You bet on that :person_facepalming:
Although Iām not a tint āsnobā, Iām starting to pay attention to those aspects, and want to make a good choice!
This photo is better to judge the tint, I guess. As TK said, the first one seemed more to the greenish sideā¦
Iāll probably get one of these, not āpureā neutral nor warm white!
Thanks again for the photos myflashguy :+1:
Thanks for the explanation TK
That, along with the photos and explantion and maukka informationā¦I guess I can relate and make a decision!
Dale they are indeed salts. Sodium and chlorine arenāt the cation/anion combo to make a salt. In fact, virtually any acid will react with any base to form a salt that is the combo of the negative and positive portions of both. My b.s. In Biochemistry made me post since I am almost always lost when FL modding is the topic.
Thanks for the answer
I donāt know if this will help others to decide on the tint, but I made my final final decision based on this comparison (after the above images kindly posted by myflashguy and TKs explanation, well and after seeing the other images posted on this and other threads)
Thanks myflashguy
Humā¦I guess Iāll love it :heart_eyes:
Already ordered, black with XPG2 S4 3D, and the 18350 tube!
I was resisting, but I couldnāt hold any longer
I guess Iāll have to save the rest of the money for the FW3A :money_mouth_face: (please let it have the Anduril FW!!!)
Mostly, the XP-L HI should be throwier and the Nichia should be floodier (and hotter). Due to having more throw and more lumens, XP-L HI should look brighter at the same levels, while Nichia should make colors look a bit better with a more consistent white beam.
Nichia has the smaller die surface so it should, by definition, have more throw than the XP-L HI. The Nichia wonāt make as many lumens and itāll get hotter, but in the small TIRās of the optic it should have a tighter (but still large) hot spot.
The Nichia emitter has a dome though, which makes its apparent size bigger. Itās the least-throwy of the three emitter types offered in this light, slightly behind XP-G2 and well behind XP-L HI. Measurements are in the first post.
Men shave, razors annihilate domes. Throw changes.
Does the XP-L HI throw more because of die size or sheer emissions? Not apples to apples surely. At similar lumens levels I wonderā¦.
Edit: Point in fact, My Texas Poker has had numerous emitters in itās 4 1/2 years of existence. It now has the Nichia 219C at 5000K for a very good reason, the XP-L HI did not perform well in this light. The reflector, I am told, is from Dereelight but I have never been able to find it in Dereelights catalog of parts. At any rate, in this custom made light the Nichia 219 reigns supreme.
