I really have no idea… but here is the daylight shot… maybe I’ll find a way to measure it one day lol.
Thanks for the photo.
It looks like the distance from the red bushes to the tree is maybe half (but after looking at the photo some more) maybe equal the distance from the pavers to the red bushes.
Depth perception may be a little off by only having the photo as a reference.
40+40 meters?
Great pics yuhsin ,google maps is your friend if you want to measure any distance on a map.
Great pics also biker, thanks for the detailed write up.
Thanks Ven.
I’ve been spending more time here than on cpf lately 
My TN36UTvn and T6vn got some good use during Irma recently.
Really loving my new EDC, the D4.
Amazing light.
Still has a subtle glow after 3 hours.
Thanks for the google map advice guys! just did my front door to the red bush and the far tree and here are the numbers:
Bush: 29 meter (95ft)
Tree far away: 65 or 70 meter (215ft)
I will edit these numbers into my original post
Thanks for checking that out.
So from the pavers to the tree is approx. 65-70 meters.
I wasn’t too far off.
I happened to be in your backyard lol!
Now I have a XP-L HI 3A (Blue) on my way but it’s going to take a few days… I’ll do the same shot when it’s here too. I now also thinking about the regular XP-G2 S4-2B 5700k one in grey… and this one can get here in 3 days since it’s stocked… should I pull another trigger? :person_facepalming:
Excellent, thanks for confirming! I’ve the slightly updated D4 with screwed-down MPCB; my TIR has 2 legs so only have 3 “oily splotches” (2 legs and center) which is hardly noticeable.
I’m puzzled by seeing two blinks — one as expected while ramping up the brightness, which I assume is when the driver changes modes.
Then I get to full brightness and after a second or so there’s another blink.
Same when I ramp down, there’s another blink when it reaches the low level
What’s it trying to tell me here?
Just my thoughts as to why:
From the minimum output level (moonlight), you should see 2 blinks on the way up.
The first tells you that you are passing/exiting driver regulation, and the next tells you you’ve reached the maximum output level, and can let go of the button.
From the max output level (turbo), you should see 2 blinks on the way down.
The first tells you that you are passing/entering driver regulation, and the next tells you you’ve reached the minimum output level , and can let go of the button.
TK: If there is some other/additional significance to the ramping blinks, please correct me. :+1:
Will getting the frosted Optic change the CRI and colour temperature of the 90 CRI D4?
Thanks freefly, I’m sure that’s the right answer.
Nope, that’s exactly what they are. The blinks are there because multiple people have requested a blink at top, bottom, and channel boundaries. Otherwise it can be difficult to tell where the top is, and almost impossible to tell where the channel changes.
I find the middle blink useful, but I turned off the bottom blink on my lights and I don’t remember the last time I ramped all the way to the top to see the top blink. I mostly use the range of moon to ~500 lm, plus occasional bursts of turbo, but almost never use anything between ~500 lm and turbo. It’s uncommon that I use anything above 150 lm, really, so a simple 1x7135 driver does most of what I want.
No, but it’ll blend the beam to improve consistency, which can greatly reduce the change in color temperature between different parts of the beam. Frosted optics are a good choice for high-CRI lights.
However, it’ll also reduce throw by quite a bit. It’s for up-close use only.
Yeah, I’ve the XP-L 5000k with both frosted and unfrosted lens and the throw is noticeably different but the frosted seems a tad cooler.
Wondering if some modest changes might improve the D4, like a sense resistor to limit total current draw and possibly 4 de-domed XP-E2 Torch LED’s. Tint should be in the 1C range de-domed, throw should be notably increased. I may try it just to see how it works out with the Quad Carclo optic.
Why would someone want to know when the channel changes? Does it have to do with efficiency? Is it better to use in full regulated mode when possible? Thanks in advance.
Right, keep the battery drain under control for extended run times, say when you’re away on the weekend or on a hike, there’s a lot of occasions where it’s nice to know when you’re entering the high drain level. Especially when you mate up the short tube and use 18350 cells with their low capacity.
Ok so when you need around 100lm which is fully regulated its much more efficient to have slightly less (before the blink) than have slightly more. It will make no difference in your sight if its 90lm or 110lm but will make a big difference in battery life. If I understand corectly…