I dont know for sure but I dont think Neal will be back till this next week. I think there are several folks that had issues with their orders(me2) that have been trying to contact him over the past 2 weeks with no luck. I give him a few more days ……… I have been reassured by ‘those that know more than me’ that he will take care of us………we’ll see.
From what I’ve heard, Neal came back a little early to get the BLF GT sorted out, and has been at Lumintop’s factory boxing and shipping those. I think he has been aiming to ship 111 per day so the first batch can all go out this week, and I’m not sure if he is getting anything else done yet.
My 4 days old d4 is acting weird. It starts ramping as soon as I insert the battery without me switching it on. It does not respond to switches properly either. It randomly turns on too. Any idea whats going on?
It’s fooked.
Merry Christmas.
Wire of electronic switch is pinched somewhere, and is (occasionally) making contact with body, so the driver sees this as an input. That’s my guess. Welcome to BLF! :partying_face:
Thanks, That might be the case as it hasn’t turned on since I last put it on software lockout. I only got this light after a month long wait.
are you using a LONG protected battery? Could put excess pressure on driver/switch
No, I’ve been using unprotected flat pink Samsungs.
What? Are you complaining about the delivery of an Emisar D4 or the BLF GT? The BLF GT has only just started shipping, no issues there.
I ordered my D1S through Neal’s Deals, and it took a month to arrive, I can’t complain as shipping was free.
Haha , merry Christmas to you :partying_face:
Have yo made sure the tail cap & also the head is screwed tight?
I say this because the second day after I got mine ,I had it on my passenger seat in my car & when I went round a corner it rolled off the seat & landed in the door pocket ( not very hard ) when I got home & checked it , it was flickering & wont respond to button presses then after a few more presses it stopped working completely , I thought it was fooked & thought I would need to contact Hank to arrange a replacement.
Well the next day I was playing with it to see if I could get it working before I contacted Hank , I put a new battery in and noticed the head turned slightly & I saw two flashes & it was back to normal , so the head must have got turned slightly when it hit.
Are samsung cells with 10A enough or would u be better with more? Its a shame this light doesnt take 26650 cells would be so much better.
Well, as long as it has been shipped, I’m not sure there’s anyone to blame but the postal service. It’s a lot slower at this time of year, than during the summer. Give it another couple of weeks, and it will probably arrive. I don’t get concerned about lost parcels until it has been at least 2 months since shipping. Most arrive far faster, but occasionally one gets stuck somewhere I guess.
I would be aiming for 15a minimum(30Q for example). Ideally 20a cells like the vtc6 or vtc5/vtc5a . 10a will of course work, but on higher levels the voltage will sag more and you won’t get the best out of your D4. Not only that, but it will be pushing the 10a cells hard, will shorten their life quicker over time.
A switch wire is probably pinched inside and shorting. I’ve heard of three cases like this, including yours. You can either get it replaced or try to fix it yourself. To fix it, take the driver out and have a look at the wires. If one has broken casing, wrap or replace that wire. Otherwise it can probably be put back together but with the wires arranged more carefully.
Allow me to add that you will need to remove the bezel, glass lens, and optic, then desolder the wires from the LED board in order to get the driver out. The LED wires are too short to allow the driver to be removed while connected.
The LED board will likely remain in place, held by the thermal compound. Use a toothpick or similar non-metal object to poke the driver from the LED side to free it. The driver isn’t glued, but it’s a tight fit. Don’t pull it too far from the cavity, as the switch’s two thin wires aren’t very long either.
This process isn’t terribly difficult if you’re comfortable using a soldering iron and working with small parts in confined places. If you decide to investigate, good luck!
since most D4 lovers are here....
Someone went crazy on those! 
Love the grey one, not a fan of the multi-colored ones
Martin, any chance on the clean look?
Basically the D4 as is, but in copper and titanium, i love it!
The pictures you posted look a lot like olight clones T.B.H.
