It simply cannot work beautifully (probably a very subjective word in the first place), weak output, early low battery voltage signaling, battery too long will make not allow tailcap to screw in fully (threads are anodized so tailcap must be fully screwed) to make electrical contact, or will simply break the driver due to the cell being long.
How it actually works well, you might not have yet encountered/realized the first 2 issues, the others, let’s hope you have not broken the driver PCB using long cells
SKV89 please dont use the panasonic battery for the d4, its not good enough way too low amps in that battery, ive seen on youtube the d4 draws as much as 19A on turbo… thats crazy u need a Sony VTC6 or samsung 30Q or similar with lots of A…
Ordered another D4 and one D1 26th December, shipped out the 31st.
Picked it up yesterday. Pretty fast considering many others here have waited a lot longer.
But I’m in Sweden, so it’s probably why.
The coating of the glass of my D4 is rather worn off meanwhile, looks very uneven. Did anybody else notice this?
can you post a pic?
Even with the low amps on the panasonic protected buttonless battery, it is SUPER bright. I don’t doubt it reaches 4,000 lumens as it lights up the street. I’m afraid of using a non protected battery on this little flashlight as it can get dangerously hot. Even with my protected panasonic, it gets hot pretty fast already.
weird, i ordered on dec 27 and its still not here 
shipped out dec 31… i guess soon. shipping to sweden is slow now for some reason.
SKV89 dont be afraid to use non protected battery, the maker of the light recommends them nothing bad will happen if using quality cells its kinda wasting money buying this light if gonna use low amp cells…
It should be fine. The light has a temperature sensor and should ramp down when it gets hot.
I think you have misunderstood what a “protected 18650” is. The protection circuit on the cell makes sure the battery can’t be discharged below a certain voltage (or overcharged).
The emisar D4 already has this low voltage protection built in, so it makes absolutely no sense putting a protected cell in.
Not anymore since I removed the damaged coating completely meanwhile. I don’t claim this is genuine problem of the D4 since I opened the head pretty often for modding.
Does that mean the stepless dimming goes from 0-~150lm and Turbo all the way to the max?
Nothing in between like 500 or 1000?
It’s not stepless… it just has enough steps that it looks smooth all the way from moon to turbo. An approximation table of all 150 levels is in the first post of this thread.
150 levels is stepless enough for me! Even 25 would be. 
Can you explain is simple words what that means.
Can I go ‘stepless’ through all 150 modes? Is from a user’s POV needed to know it switches to FET at step 66?
Quick question, is it better to use nipple top or flat top batteries for the D4?
Whats better LG 18650 HE4 or Samsung 30Q 3000mah? First one less capacity (2500mah) but higher drain, and second one more capacity but 15A drain?
Just checked https://intl-outdoor.com and found out that the D4Ti color A is out of stock… Hope it will be in stock soon.
Flattop Les are Best. My d4 ti won’t close with button tops. Sony vtc5a is Best: vtc6 is cheaper and better for lower levels. Samsung’s better than lg,
The “Noctigon family” is also being sold in AliExpress! BUT, they are (too) pricy 
D4 - Page Not Found - Aliexpress.com
When you start ramping, from “bottom” or “top”, you can stop wherever you want, but that does not indicate in which “step” you are.
While ramping up or down you will get a “blink” in the way, that indicates that passage from the steps 65 < > 66.
If ramping from the bottom towards top luminous level, it will pass from the “65” to the “66” after the blink, and the FET gets ON.
If ramping from the top towards bottom luminous level, it will pass from “66” to “65” after the blink, and then you will get regulated level.
Also, if you unscrew the tail or head of the flashlight and switch it ON (single click), it will turn ON near (or on?) step 65! If you press and hold to ramp up after this, you will see the “blink”, and that corresponds to the above described “passage” from steps 65 to 66.
Among the 3 emitter choices (xpg2, xpl-hi, and nichia) for the D4, at the same output below the need for temperature protection to kick in, which gives the longest regulated and overall runtime? Thanks.
Is this a trick question? Haha, I think they’ll all have the same runtime at the regulated (350mA) level as long as you’re using the same battery. They’ll differ in their outputs though, the XP-G2 would be brightest followed by the XP-L HI and then the Nichia. Someone correct me if I’m wrong.
The D4Ti arrived to complete my collection.
Blue: XP-L Hi V3 1A
Green: Nichia 219C
Raw Ti: Nichia 219C frosted lens
Will do some comparison on stepdown time and relative levels later today
