Thx fonLED, very interested in your findings :+1:
Wonder what the Cu will do to the thermal properties of the D4Ti. Looks like the perfect EDC
Unfortunately LEGO Cu-head with Al-body is not possible (threads on Ti are triangle but square on Al).
Replaced the frosted lens on Ti with clear to get comparable results. Lights cold on start at 24ÂșC. Drivers as supplied from factory (no temp adjusted).
Measured values are direct TA8120 readings by ceiling bounce, same battery 30Q (each time recharged) on all tests.
The Nichia 219C D4Ti steps down much smoother than the D4, delivering you more time on the higher output range.
XP-L Hi V3 1A | TASI | relative % | Nichia 219C | TASI | relative % | Nichia 219C | TASI | relative % |
D4 clear lens | D4 clear lens | D4Ti clear lens | ||||||
t (s) | t (s) | t (s) | ||||||
0 | 244 | 100% | 0 | 226 | 100% | 0 | 209 | 100% |
17 | 189 | 77% | 12 | 164 | 73% | 12 | 157 | 75% |
20 | 149 | 61% | 17 | 78 | 35% | 18 | 116 | 56% |
25 | 90 | 37% | 23 | 28 | 12% | 24 | 102 | 49% |
30 | 55 | 23% | 28 | 9 | 4% | 29 | 80 | 38% |
35 | 42 | 17% | 34 | 3 | 1% | 34 | 52 | 25% |
63 | 38 | 16% | 40 | 32 | 15% | |||
130 | 34 | 14% | 45 | 23 | 11% | |||
160 | 31 | 13% | 57 | 21 | 10% | |||
170 | 28 | 11% | 65 | 17 | 8% | |||
180 | 13 | 5% | 73 | 8 | 4% | |||
220 | 11 | 5% | 83 | 5 | 2% | |||
230 | 5 | 2% |
Hehe i guess today is arrival d4 day for some, finally got mine green and correct color and tint.
My Cyan D4 ordered through Nealâs Deals just before Christmas just arrived yesterday. Only contact I received was the initial order confirmation - no shipping notification or anything. Just a heads-up to anyone else who ordered through Neal, that orders are still getting sent out, even if their is a disappointing lack of communication.
FWIW, zak.wilsonâs ceilingbounce app makes this pretty easy to do, if you have an Android phone. Itâs where the output graphs in the review and first comment came from. Its output looks like this:
It also saves the data into a .csv format to make it easy to use with other tools. Sometimes I use these exports in my graphing tool instead:
A little "Buyer Beware" story...
I have a green EMISAR D4 that I got from Hank Wang at Int'l Outdoor a few months ago. Great product, great communications and color did not vary from part to part.
Today I received my EMISAR D4 Cyan from NEAL ( ćŒ ææŽȘ [zhanghh0420@hotmail.com]) I am not happy with the color matching of the individual parts. The main body and head are closest to what I expected. The tail is a shade brighter of the cyan and although noticeable, I can live with it. The lens retaining ring, that 8 mm part closest to the lens, is just really off color, very close to Aqua Sky (a Pantone color). It seems to have a bit of light yellow/green in it. I can live the tail shade but I would like the lens ring replaced. I sent Neal a photo from my phone but, in person, it looks even worse. All I asked was if he could get a new lens ring part sent to me. He responded quickly with the following:
"it is produced by Emisar, they also said will be a little color different. I am not a manufacturer."
It looks as though Neal may be getting âfactory secondsâ and selling them as "new" at a slight discount to get his business going. In any case, poor communications and NO customer service. It wasn't worth the small discount for such a great light. Lesson learned!
Has anyone else run into unmatched color parts on your Cyan D4? I also got the 18350 tube (color matched with 18650 tube) which was inside the box so somebody opened the box to complete the order...
If youâll do some back reading, youâll know that thereâs indeed a color difference in the cyan D4 even from Hank. I got mine from Hank and there are subtle shade differences in the head, body, and tailcap.
My cyan D4 from Hank is color matched pretty well to my eyes. The tailcap has the vertical lines, which can create a darker appearance, but thatâs just the nature of the beast.
Chris
I have one on the way, so Iâll keep you posted when itâs received.
Wow thanks for the comparison fonLED! That is very useful. I wasnât planning at all to buy the D4ti but from your comparison, Iâm kind of on the fence. Who would have thought they added more step down levels in the titanium version compared to the original. They didnât even add this important improvement in their description.
Thanks, heatwaves, ChrisGarrett and bunnicula. âSubtleâ I can handle and I have over 200 lights, some colored and never have had seen such a difference. If you look up the Pantone color Aqua Sky, you can see how different the color is of the lens ring body piece. Just thought Emisar should have rejected this piece since it is from a whole different family of colors. IMHO. Just sayinââŠAnd now I have no access to Emisar to request a replacement. Will be sticking with Intâl Outdoors or Mtn Electronics for future Emisar purchases. Lesson learned.
Wow thanks for the comparison fonLED! ⊠Who would have thought they added more step down levels in the titanium version compared to the original. They didnât even add this important improvement in their description.
It doesnât have more stepdown levels. It has more thermal mass, so it heats up slower, which makes the thermal regulation adjustments slower. The driver is exactly the same, but itâs sitting in a chunk of copper instead of a chunk of aluminum.
There should be about 100 âstep-down levelsâ available in all cases⊠but the host material and emitter type and battery characteristics determine how quickly the step-down happens.
Thanks for the clarification. Man that makes me want to buy another D4ti
I have a blue Aluminium d4 on order. Maybe Iâll get the ti next. I read somewhere the titanium doesnât dissipate the heat as well as the aluminum, but with the copper head on the titanium version itâs about the same overall.
Kinda dirty trick changing the threads so no legoing is possible. :rage:
I donât have a D4 Ti to test, but my guess is that the titanium model should sustain turbo a bit longer (due to more thermal mass in the pill), while the aluminum model should sustain a higher stable level (due to more usable surface area to shed heat).
Basically, the aluminum model can shed heat from the entire host, but the titanium/copper model is mostly just shedding heat from the pill section. Titanium doesnât conduct or shed heat well.
I havenât measured the D4 Ti though, so Iâm only guessing.
Wow the Ti version is crazy expensive, if i dont want the nichia emitter u end up at $112.98 no matter what bodyhost color⊠thats just a bit too muchâŠ. wow have to pass on that then. for that price i can buy 2 more regular emisars with different emittersâŠ. shame.
I donât have a D4 Ti to test, but my guess is that the titanium model should sustain turbo a bit longer (due to more thermal mass in the pill), while the aluminum model should sustain a higher stable level (due to more usable surface area to shed heat).
Basically, the aluminum model can shed heat from the entire host, but the titanium/copper model is mostly just shedding heat from the pill section. Titanium doesnât conduct or shed heat well.
I havenât measured the D4 Ti though, so Iâm only guessing.
Your probably right. Thanks for the feedback.
Wow the Ti version is crazy expensive, if i dont want the nichia emitter u end up at $112.98 no matter what bodyhost color⊠thats just a bit too muchâŠ. wow have to pass on that then. for that price i can buy 2 more regular emisars with different emittersâŠ. shame.
Itâs expensive, but Ti is more expensive (and harder to machine), durable and is a more premium material.