I agree. I adjust my lights brightness to the level I need and not to a specific current consumption.
I got my D4 4000k XPL-HI this month too and I love the light so much. I have about 30 flashlights but this one is my absolute favorite. You can’t run it at max 4,000 lumens or any other high lumens for long because of the size of the flashlight it cannot dissipate heat fast enough. You can set it to a lower lumen like other flashlights and it will maintain the brightness much easier. But I love blasting it on max lumens just to see the amazed looks on people’s face. I also really like the material, more so than other flashlights including the Armytek Wizard Pro V3, which is another lovely light. The build quality looks very good and the user interface is the best of any single button flashlight I’ve seen. I’m guessing you got a lemon. Probably the build quality of the Emisars are not that consistent.
That’s gotta sting?
Wait 42 days, reading everybody’s positive comments about the light, only to finally receive it after 6 weeks and you hate it with a passion and are disappointed beyond belief?
Yikes!
My D4 cyan is well matched in the cap, head, body and 18350 body.
The anodizing is robust, since I installed the pocket clip at both ends, with nary a scratch and I used my D4 to install a water heater in a ‘closet’ this weekend and the ‘floody’ aspect of the Emisar came in quite handy.
Anyhow, I guess you can’t please everybody?
Chris
Can anyone with D4 nichia version help with runtime test? What’s the runtime when it is set to around 15-20% brightness (500 lumens)? Does it get to hot to handle? Want to know how it does with the real usage. Thanks.
When the code was being written, that’s what people wanted… so that’s what they got. It’s basically just a mile marker on a road with no other landmarks. If you want to change it, the code is open-source and the driver is relatively easy to access and reflash. There are also multiple other interfaces available.
Thank you maukka. That’s quite helpful and it looks good.
Hi guys,
Where to buy this light from Malaysia?
And how much it cost in RM?
thanks!
I bought mine from Intl Outdoor. I live in US and had ok shipping times. 3wks.
Light is pretty sweet. Mtn did not have inventory of nichia d4 at the time and seem to sell out quick. I don’t understand folks ordering from Neal. Intl outdooor built this light.
Just wanted to chime in with a little observation.
I like to give my flashlights a “weathered look”. So they look like they have been used for years.
None of my flashlights are pretty shelf queens 
This involves some semi-fine grit sandpaper, sometimes a dremel.
The black (smooth surface) anodization is waaay harder/thicker/better than the green (grainy surface).
The black really put up a fight, the green anodization came right off.
It shows around the side switch, the black is tough as frigg!
Weathering actually made the green more comfortable/smoother to hold (IMO).
The black is the XP-G2 S4 5D 4000K, from september 2017
The green is the Nichia 219CT 90CRI 5000K (4XP V2) from december 2017
Both from intl-outdoor.com
At least with multiple 7135s it could be of interest to some people, but only a very few and not very often. Personally I think it should be user selectable. I have an “engineer” user mode where a lot of things behave differently in order to set and test lights, among other things a blink on every constant current step in ramping, but it’s all disabled in all other user modes.
I am the person who requested it.
It serves me to mark the point at which efficacy starts to drop. Also, at the mark can run for almost 8 hours on a full 18650. And furthermore, it’s just a mark:
With the smooth ramp it’s easy to lose track on how far is the selected mode from moonlight. Just recently it happened to me with Narsil that I ramped almost to the end, but thought that I was around the middle. Accident like that may lead to premature emptying of batteries and therefore - being lost in the dark. Such accident has never happened to me with any Emisar light.
As mentioned, it has it’s use, but would be better if it was user selectable.
In terms of getting lost in the dark, if you have put yourself in that kind of situation where it could be dangerous to get lost in the dark and you don’t have a backup light or cell with you, maybe you should use the battery voltage checks?
Cheapest is to just buy from Hank who makes the lights here, doubt u will find it cheaper new then the listed price there at 39$ and he ships worldwide more or less.
https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4-high-power-led-flashlight-p-921.html
I have ordinary stepped lights (L/M/H etc) and I would use one of those if I absolutely must know the runtime.
Unfortunately the ‘cool’ factor of the ramping UI is somewhat ruined by the “blink”. It gives the impression the light is glitching or the battery is struggling.
There are some people who really want fully regulated drivers and call FET drivers “archaic” or “junk” since the top end output is dependent on state of charge. The blip in the ramp gives all users a reference to know that below this point, output is fully controlled by PWM of the 7135. Above is PWM on the FET, and is therefore subject to field conditions.
To continue your sports car analogy I would say that putting fully regulated drivers on these lights would be like putting a governor on that sports car, thereby limiting the output.
“yes,this LED could output 20% (10 - whatever the number may be) more light with an open FET, but then we wouldn’t know how long it would run - see how much better life is with a regulated driver?”
I also think so. So far there have been more people who either didn’t know what it was or simply didn’t like it than ones who liked it.
I rarely take spare lights. The situations when I’m in the risk of running out of energy seem to be the same where weight is critical. Well, there’s always a cell phone anyway.
The tradeoff is: either know well how much runtime you have or have as much runtime as you can (by using as much light as you want and nothing more). It’s a flawed one. As Mike C noted, this can be resolved by checking voltage periodically. Though I don’t like the elaborate effort involved. Turn off. Wait a second so the light doesn’t notice a multi-click. Check voltage. At that point you know the voltage which you have to translate to energy which in turn you have to translate to runtime. In practice each translation must be approximated.
Current indicator helps with one approximation. I think there should be a better way of deriving runtime…
Despite I find the blink “awkward”, and despite I regularly check the battery to avoid being “out of juice” (even carrying a spare on a holster 
), I find the blink useful for the mentioned purpose: to mark the point when battery rain will increase!
If it was user selectable - without the need to “programme” - it would be nice, but I can live with it and that is another thing that makes the Emisar D4 my EDC light since I got it! :+1:
/\ +1
Those look great! :+1:
Can you share photos of your other weathered lights?
My red Convoy S2+ spent some time tumbling in the dryer inside a small bottle of gravel, broken glass, and screws.
