No worries.
New toys? Well……don’t “keep” them to yourself.
I modded 4000K 90 CRI XP-L2 leds in my black D4 today. Starts at 4300 (djozz-)lumen with 3800 lumen at 16 seconds, then thermoregulation kicked in.
This was a U6 bin, a V6 bin should be 5400 lumen at start-up.
Not so happy with the tint.
More info in WDYMT
Thanks BrianK! Tempting. And I had seen it in stock on Ali……was just debating whether to wait patiently for MTN so I could get it in a week, and support them, or wait 3-6 weeks from China.
Using my Asrolux S1 clip on it at the moment….not perfect by any means, but holds it securely.
you are right about the small output difference. and i also notice Olight X7R or most Olight CW are slightly green tint. M3XS-UT has the worse greenish tint imo. And thanks to your input I requested in time to change to Neutral White - XP-L HI V2 3A, 5000K….phew that was close! :innocent:
The Solarforce clip is described as “stainless steel” but it’s a magnetic alloy.
Is there any feasible way to cut threads on the inside to enlarge the opening and make it screw down onto the flashlight?
Else, what’s the best way to grind/carve away on the inside diameter to make it fit over the flashlight tailcap threads?
The older “deep carry” solarforce clip is made of chrome plated steel.
Similar questions.
No need to cut threads as the area it eventually resides on is unthreaded.
I used a rotary tool with a sanding drum and slowly removed material until it just fit over the threaded sections.
It doesn’t leave a whole lot of the ring after enlarging so if you have to bias the cut in any direction I’d take a little more off on the side opposite the clip.
Depending on the thickness of the paperclip the clip may still rotate. If you want it to remain stationary you could flatten the paper clip with a hammer to get it down to size so the tailcap grabs it tight.
IMO nothing beats a screw-on clip, I’m looking at that option from all directions. Will spend too much buying tap, screws, deep-carry clip with holes…… flashoholism.
I’m getting both the XP-L options, I’ll let you know the differences. The CW I have so far is an animal.
Has anybody tried a Nitecore clip with success?
They sell quite a few kinds.
Oh, it gets hot but steps down within 30 seconds. There are a number of posts with members’ own accounts of D4 ‘behaviour’. I put o-rings on mine for the heat and a grip. Sorry to hear about you first D4… hope you get another.
Good share! I hope someone has the Nitecore model with the correct dimensions so they can tell us the clip model to purchase.
This morning, I crimped some gold, flat speaker pins onto a short length of 14 gauge Monster Cable and terminated the other end with dual banana plugs. Plugged them in to my old Craftsman 82082 DMM and the light tested at 11.9A. I see the light… and now the numbers too! :+1:
Version B from my MH12. As you can tell, it’s a little too thick for the groove but it works well enough for me so I’ve been using it for the past week. Other versions might fit into the groove. There’s not a sharp edge on this clip and it’s pretty heavy duty. Been on my work MH12 for about a year. Really deep carry on the D4. It sits about a 1/16 of an inch lower than the battery cap.
hmmm … 
Not quite right … still hunting
There are also rings on threaded posts which, if trimmed, might thread into a tapped hole on the tailcap.
Spare tailcaps would be very handy to fiddle with, if available.
I wish I could find a smaller version of this tripod-thread ring:
Any idea why Hank decided to use the V2 XP-L HI instead of V3? Doesn’t make any sense to me.
Hank, not quite the same, but would a lanyard on a pocket clip work? That way you’d have both options. That’s what I intend to try, but the pocket clip is the most important option. My lanyard will be a finger lanyard on a light this small (I hope). I’ll need to play with it to see what I can come up with.
Sorry about the photobucket pix. I hope they go bankrupt (and they are in danger of that, whoopppee!) .
I don’t want to wrap the flashlight in insulating nylon cord to attach a lanyard.
If I can get a ring onto it somehow, that’d work fine, I use the little spring “lobster claw” clips a lot attached by split rings to flashlights that have the little hole drilled (or I drill the hole … hmmm ….)
The Solarforce belt clips all have little openings suitable to attach a split ring. Usually I attach glow-in-the-dark keyfobs that way (hat tip to Andygold who made them for a while).
That Nitecore clip looks close, but the arms are a little too wide and the place where the arms meet has an extra tongue thing to catch fabric on. It might be about right after some minor adjustments.
Do the fingers stick out far enough to get in the way?
I’d guess that’s a (poor) attempt to solve the problem you’d get without that extra tongue thing — the right angle connection between the legs and body parts snags fabric in my experience with Convoy’s clips.
I have one clip that makes that transition a smooth curve that feeds the fabric or belt edge into the narrower part of the gap smoothly. It came on an Orcatorch T11:
Here’s another look:
It’s solved that cloth-catching problem nicely. I wish they had several sizes and sold them seperately but, no.