I guess I should put my study glasses and my thinking cap on sooner rather than later ..
What kind of equipment would I need to flash to a new firmware version? My D4V2 is in the mail and I’d like to flash it to the latest version that includes the safety rampdown feature (when it is available). Is there a guide for flashing firmware?
Well, at least one thing that I know of that you'll need it's the Re-flashing Kit for the D4V2 that Hank now has for sale, on the same store where you've probably ordered the light itself. As far as where you'll get the firmware itself I've no clue yet, as I haven't got the flashing kit in the first place, thus I haven't looked any info on that so far.
You can find already compiled firmware here: Index of /torches/fsm
Just make sure you choose the right model - some models even have two like a Nichia (219) version
So where do we start a petition to get this as default?
This is the only thing that i want to change in anduril
Thanks, I found the flashing kit on Hank’s site: Emisar D4V2 / D4SV2 / KR4 reflashing kit - Components
Flashing instructions for PC: Emisar D4V2 Flash Kit Instructions (Official How To)
Flashing video instructions for use with OTG Android phone: How to update firmware on Emisar D4V2 with your Android phone with OTG - YouTube
Now to decide if I need/want to flash the firmware anyway. I should be good to go with the current version.
TK, that would be a great addition. Would the long hold be able to unlock it as well. I find that I screw up the 4 click sequence about as often as I get it right.
Wouldn't hold to unlock beat the purpose of the hold for Lock/Off in the 1st place ?
It already has a beacon mode, after battcheck, and the timing is configurable.
It’s at the link (or the Link) in my signature.
Lower muggle mode ceiling is definitely possible. It’s just difficult to get manufacturers to accept the idea of making less light.
TBH though, I’ve also been wanting to remove muggle mode entirely. And if I add basically anything else to the firmware, it won’t fit on every supported light any more, and then it’ll be necessary to remove something. If that happens, muggle mode will probably be the first to go.
I don’t think it’s a good idea to use hold for unlock. The whole point of lockout mode is that it can’t be unlocked by accident while the light is in a bag or a pocket, so allowing a hold to unlock it would make the mode stop serving its purpose. Would also interfere with its use as a momentary low mode.
The initial ramp-down should probably happen pretty quickly, since it takes less than 10 seconds to start a fire on some lights. I set the timer at 5 seconds because it takes about 2.5s to ramp all the way up, and then 2.5s more to start ramping down, which is plenty long to let go of the button but also usually fast enough to avoid fires.
The main thing I’m concerned about is how it’ll interact with long stepped ramps. It counts the duration the button has been held, not the duration it has been at the ceiling. So with a long enough stepped ramp, starting from the floor, it turns around immediately when it hits the top, then locks immediately at the bottom. But with the smooth ramp or with just 7 levels, it stays at the top for a few seconds before ramping down. And if it bounces off the top with a long ramp, it’s simple enough to let go and hold again to go back up.
That's not good. "Safety features" should not get in the way of normal use.
I'd rather have no autolock/autorampdown at all than something that might suddenly interfere with my inputs. This is an "enthusiast flashlight (UI)" after all. ;)
Thanks for pointing out the links :)
I guess I wanted to say move the "Beacon" mode to the Strobe groups, but came out whatever came out. Happens when I'm trying to do more things at once and then I forget what I was doing and resume.. :))
Also what I mostly like on a Beacon signal is how short and intense the flash is, something like the flash on a camera blitz, or one flash from a strobe mode - But noticed this isn't the same here with the "Beacon" mode in the Blinkies Group. This one "looks" more like a "slow flash" at "x" time interval. Myself, as an example I like the Beacon modes as on the Manker, or Nitecore Lights - a very short and bright flash at around 2s intervals.
I wouldn't cry after the Muggle Mode personally, so if it ever gets removed entirely, that's no loss for me :)
Why counting the button hold from start and not from context (e.g. ramp ceil) ?
This is not a muggle light. I’d be fine if the mode was removed.
No, it’s not a muggle light. That’s why muggle mode exists…
I can give a gun to some one because it has a safety. But it’s not the best idea.
Agreed. Having 20 ramp steps and ramping up through all of them in a single hold isn’t exactly common though. And if it happens, it’s really easy to let go and hold again for a moment to get back up to the top. I’m not very worried about it.
I usually prefer a short sharp beacon too, instead of a slower gentler one. I tried to use what I saw in other lights though, which was pretty slow. It was 500ms on, and then N.5 seconds off where N is configurable. Since then though, I got annoyed enough at it to speed it up. It’s now 100ms on and N.9 seconds off. So it’s a lot closer… but still not the ~5ms ontime I’d normally use.
Mostly to use less ROM space and less RAM. There’s basically no room left, so I made it as small as possible. A counter already tracks the duration of each hold, so I used that instead of making a new one.
The beacon of my nitecore hc65 headlamp is even shorter and intenser then the D4v2, almost a camera flash, I like that
http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril.2019-09-28.emisar-d4v2.hex has been released. What's new? :)
Probably her elaborate safety on the side switch when in lockout… or anytime I guess… a prolonged press of the switch will step it all the way down to moon and keep it there. So if the switch gets pressed in a bag or in a pocket it can’t stay on a high power level.
Only guessing, but that’s probably the new revision.
Not completely relevant but some of you might like to know… I’ve rebuilt my Ham’r Q8 mod to use only the original Q8 driver, no slaves. Anduril runs it, a single SIR404DP drives it (and a single 7135 chip) to the tune of 0.3 lumens in Moon and 22,100 lumens in Turbo, from 4 freshly charged Samsung 25S 18650 cells. So the components have great capability when paired with the right emitters to allow high power, in this case there are 8 XP-L (4 HI and 4 HD) and 8 LH351D as well as a single XHP-50.2 (3V).
Effectively 20 dies….
FWIW, the layout is 4 D4S boards with their accompanying Angie optics and a single 50.2 under a reflector between the 4 quads. Difficult to believe how well a single driver can run all that, but there it is.