TK's Emisar D4V2 review

[80T]

I guess I should put my study glasses and my thinking cap on sooner rather than later ..

[Lord_Polymath]

What kind of equipment would I need to flash to a new firmware version? My D4V2 is in the mail and I’d like to flash it to the latest version that includes the safety rampdown feature (when it is available). Is there a guide for flashing firmware?

[80T]

@Lord_Polymath

What kind of equipment would I need to flash to a new firmware version? My D4V2 is in the mail and I’d like to flash it to the latest version that includes the safety rampdown feature (when it is available). Is there a guide for flashing firmware?

Well, at least one thing that I know of that you'll need it's the Re-flashing Kit for the D4V2 that Hank now has for sale, on the same store where you've probably ordered the light itself. As far as where you'll get the firmware itself I've no clue yet, as I haven't got the flashing kit in the first place, thus I haven't looked any info on that so far.

[contactcr]

You can find already compiled firmware here: Index of /torches/fsm

Just make sure you choose the right model - some models even have two like a Nichia (219) version

[i42dk]

@Valynor

@ToyKeeper

@Sunnysunsun

Is there a way to configure the max ramp of muggle mode?

There’s a place to change it in the firmware, but you’d have to compile and flash a custom build. This is fairly easy to do though, if you have Hank’s flashing adapter. And it can be fun customizing things to be exactly how you like. If people in general think it should be lower though, perhaps we can get the default changed.

I would suggest to limit “max muggle ramp” to 100% regulated current. Bright enough and the light doesn’t get too hot which might scare the muggles.

So where do we start a petition to get this as default?
This is the only thing that i want to change in anduril

[Lord_Polymath]

@80T

@Lord_Polymath

What kind of equipment would I need to flash to a new firmware version? My D4V2 is in the mail and I’d like to flash it to the latest version that includes the safety rampdown feature (when it is available). Is there a guide for flashing firmware?

Well, at least one thing that I know of that you’ll need it’s the Re-flashing Kit for the D4V2 that Hank now has for sale, on the same store where you’ve probably ordered the light itself. As far as where you’ll get the firmware itself I’ve no clue yet, as I haven’t got the flashing kit in the first place, thus I haven’t looked any info on that so far.

Thanks, I found the flashing kit on Hank’s site: https://intl-outdoor.com/components-6/emisar-d4v2-reflashing-kits.html

Flashing instructions for PC: Emisar D4V2 Flash Kit Instructions (Official How To)

Flashing video instructions for use with OTG Android phone: https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=90&v=kyu7WOWApkc

Now to decide if I need/want to flash the firmware anyway. I should be good to go with the current version.

[mattlward]

@ToyKeeper

@ossifrage

@ToyKeeper

If the button stays pressed too long while the light is at or above its ceiling level, it ramps back down to the floor and stays there. So when the button gets stuck for some reason, it’ll only be at the highest level for a few seconds.

This is great. Would it be possible to have the ‘extremely long hold’ also eventually lock the light?

That’s a pretty easy thing to add. Maybe 5 seconds to make it ramp down, and 10 seconds to lock it.

Any objections?

TK, that would be a great addition. Would the long hold be able to unlock it as well. I find that I screw up the 4 click sequence about as often as I get it right.

[80T]

@mattlward

@ToyKeeper

@ossifrage

@ToyKeeper

If the button stays pressed too long while the light is at or above its ceiling level, it ramps back down to the floor and stays there. So when the button gets stuck for some reason, it’ll only be at the highest level for a few seconds.

This is great. Would it be possible to have the ‘extremely long hold’ also eventually lock the light?

That’s a pretty easy thing to add. Maybe 5 seconds to make it ramp down, and 10 seconds to lock it. Any objections?

TK, that would be a great addition. Would the long hold be able to unlock it as well. I find that I screw up the 4 click sequence about as often as I get it right.

Wouldn't hold to unlock beat the purpose of the hold for Lock/Off in the 1st place ?

[ToyKeeper]

@80T

Another thought, would you consider adding a “Beacon” mode to the strobes Group ?

It already has a beacon mode, after battcheck, and the timing is configurable.

@80T

As far as where you’ll get the firmware itself I’ve no clue yet

It’s at the link (or the Link) in my signature.

[ToyKeeper]

@i42dk

This is the only thing that i want to change in anduril

Lower muggle mode ceiling is definitely possible. It’s just difficult to get manufacturers to accept the idea of making less light.

TBH though, I’ve also been wanting to remove muggle mode entirely. And if I add basically anything else to the firmware, it won’t fit on every supported light any more, and then it’ll be necessary to remove something. If that happens, muggle mode will probably be the first to go.

@mattlward

Would the long hold be able to unlock it as well. I find that I screw up the 4 click sequence about as often as I get it right.

I don’t think it’s a good idea to use hold for unlock. The whole point of lockout mode is that it can’t be unlocked by accident while the light is in a bag or a pocket, so allowing a hold to unlock it would make the mode stop serving its purpose. Would also interfere with its use as a momentary low mode.

@Valynor

To make sure this does never interfere with normal use I would suggest slightly longer times for this feature to activate:

–10 seconds to ramp down
–15 seconds to autolock

The initial ramp-down should probably happen pretty quickly, since it takes less than 10 seconds to start a fire on some lights. I set the timer at 5 seconds because it takes about 2.5s to ramp all the way up, and then 2.5s more to start ramping down, which is plenty long to let go of the button but also usually fast enough to avoid fires.

The main thing I’m concerned about is how it’ll interact with long stepped ramps. It counts the duration the button has been held, not the duration it has been at the ceiling. So with a long enough stepped ramp, starting from the floor, it turns around immediately when it hits the top, then locks immediately at the bottom. But with the smooth ramp or with just 7 levels, it stays at the top for a few seconds before ramping down. And if it bounces off the top with a long ramp, it’s simple enough to let go and hold again to go back up.

[Valynor]

@ToyKeeper

The main thing I’m concerned about is how it’ll interact with long stepped ramps. It counts the duration the button has been held, not the duration it has been at the ceiling. So with a long enough stepped ramp, starting from the floor, it turns around immediately when it hits the top, then locks immediately at the bottom.

That's not good. "Safety features" should not get in the way of normal use.

I'd rather have no autolock/autorampdown at all than something that might suddenly interfere with my inputs. This is an "enthusiast flashlight (UI)" after all. ;)

[80T]

@ToyKeeper

@80T

Another thought, would you consider adding a “Beacon” mode to the strobes Group ?

It already has a beacon mode, after battcheck, and the timing is configurable.

@80T

As far as where you’ll get the firmware itself I’ve no clue yet

It’s at the link (or the Link) in my signature.

Thanks for pointing out the links :)

I guess I wanted to say move the "Beacon" mode to the Strobe groups, but came out whatever came out. Happens when I'm trying to do more things at once and then I forget what I was doing and resume.. :))

Also what I mostly like on a Beacon signal is how short and intense the flash is, something like the flash on a camera blitz, or one flash from a strobe mode - But noticed this isn't the same here with the "Beacon" mode in the Blinkies Group. This one "looks" more like a "slow flash" at "x" time interval. Myself, as an example I like the Beacon modes as on the Manker, or Nitecore Lights - a very short and bright flash at around 2s intervals.

@ToyKeeper

@i42dk

This is the only thing that i want to change in anduril

Lower muggle mode ceiling is definitely possible. It’s just difficult to get manufacturers to accept the idea of making less light. TBH though, I’ve also been wanting to remove muggle mode entirely. And if I add basically anything else to the firmware, it won’t fit on every supported light any more, and then it’ll be necessary to remove something. If that happens, muggle mode will probably be the first to go.

@mattlward

Would the long hold be able to unlock it as well. I find that I screw up the 4 click sequence about as often as I get it right.

I don’t think it’s a good idea to use hold for unlock. The whole point of lockout mode is that it can’t be unlocked by accident while the light is in a bag or a pocket, so allowing a hold to unlock it would make the mode stop serving its purpose. Would also interfere with its use as a momentary low mode.

@Valynor

To make sure this does never interfere with normal use I would suggest slightly longer times for this feature to activate: -10 seconds to ramp down -15 seconds to autolock

The initial ramp-down should probably happen pretty quickly, since it takes less than 10 seconds to start a fire on some lights. I set the timer at 5 seconds because it takes about 2.5s to ramp all the way up, and then 2.5s more to start ramping down, which is plenty long to let go of the button but also usually fast enough to avoid fires. The main thing I’m concerned about is how it’ll interact with long stepped ramps. It counts the duration the button has been held, not the duration it has been at the ceiling. So with a long enough stepped ramp, starting from the floor, it turns around immediately when it hits the top, then locks immediately at the bottom. But with the smooth ramp or with just 7 levels, it stays at the top for a few seconds before ramping down. And if it bounces off the top with a long ramp, it’s simple enough to let go and hold again to go back up.

I wouldn't cry after the Muggle Mode personally, so if it ever gets removed entirely, that's no loss for me :)

Why counting the button hold from start and not from context (e.g. ramp ceil) ?

[Gunga]

This is not a muggle light. I’d be fine if the mode was removed.

[Lord_Polymath]

@Gunga

This is not a muggle light. I’d be fine if the mode was removed.

No, it’s not a muggle light. That’s why muggle mode exists…

[Gunga]

I can give a gun to some one because it has a safety. But it’s not the best idea.

[ToyKeeper]

@Valynor

“Safety features” should not get in the way of normal use.

Agreed. Having 20 ramp steps and ramping up through all of them in a single hold isn’t exactly common though. And if it happens, it’s really easy to let go and hold again for a moment to get back up to the top. I’m not very worried about it.

@80T

what I mostly like on a Beacon signal is how short and intense the flash is, something like the flash on a camera blitz, or one flash from a strobe mode - But noticed this isn’t the same here with the “Beacon” mode in the Blinkies Group. This one “looks” more like a “slow flash” at “x” time interval.

I usually prefer a short sharp beacon too, instead of a slower gentler one. I tried to use what I saw in other lights though, which was pretty slow. It was 500ms on, and then N.5 seconds off where N is configurable. Since then though, I got annoyed enough at it to speed it up. It’s now 100ms on and N.9 seconds off. So it’s a lot closer… but still not the ~5ms ontime I’d normally use.

@80T

Why counting the button hold from start and not from context (e.g. ramp ceil) ?

Mostly to use less ROM space and less RAM. There’s basically no room left, so I made it as small as possible. A counter already tracks the duration of each hold, so I used that instead of making a new one.

[Overload]

@ToyKeeper

@80T

what I mostly like on a Beacon signal is how short and intense the flash is, something like the flash on a camera blitz, or one flash from a strobe mode - But noticed this isn’t the same here with the “Beacon” mode in the Blinkies Group. This one “looks” more like a “slow flash” at “x” time interval.

I usually prefer a short sharp beacon too, instead of a slower gentler one. I tried to use what I saw in other lights though, which was pretty slow. It was 500ms on, and then N.5 seconds off where N is configurable. Since then though, I got annoyed enough at it to speed it up. It’s now 100ms on and N.9 seconds off. So it’s a lot closer… but still not the ~5ms ontime I’d normally use.

The beacon of my nitecore hc65 headlamp is even shorter and intenser then the D4v2, almost a camera flash, I like that

Slowmotion:

Nitecore Hc65 VS Emisar D4v2 beacon in slowmotion

[Valynor]

http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril.2019-09-28.emisar-d4v2.hex has been released. What's new? :)

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

Probably her elaborate safety on the side switch when in lockout… or anytime I guess… a prolonged press of the switch will step it all the way down to moon and keep it there. So if the switch gets pressed in a bag or in a pocket it can’t stay on a high power level.

Only guessing, but that’s probably the new revision.

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

Not completely relevant but some of you might like to know… I’ve rebuilt my Ham’r Q8 mod to use only the original Q8 driver, no slaves. Anduril runs it, a single SIR404DP drives it (and a single 7135 chip) to the tune of 0.3 lumens in Moon and 22,100 lumens in Turbo, from 4 freshly charged Samsung 25S 18650 cells. So the components have great capability when paired with the right emitters to allow high power, in this case there are 8 XP-L (4 HI and 4 HD) and 8 LH351D as well as a single XHP-50.2 (3V).

Effectively 20 dies….

FWIW, the layout is 4 D4S boards with their accompanying Angie optics and a single 50.2 under a reflector between the 4 quads. Difficult to believe how well a single driver can run all that, but there it is.