On the left is the XP-G 4000K. On the right is the SST-20 4000K
Contrary to other lights with aux leds we’ve seen so far, the D4V2 has RGB aux leds rather then monochrome leds. The different colors are obtained by turning on and off the R, G or B components of each RGB led. That’s 8 combinations - including black (all off) and white (all on). Note that without some sort of calibration, the white is rarely pure. It is often tinted one way or another.
Thanks, as that makes total sense.
Chris
Got distracted for a couple days… sorry for the long post:
If you want, you can just disable thermal regulation entirely. I don’t recommend it, but you can. The guys at Illumn did it once for testing purposes, and they managed to melt the optic.
So if that’s a thing which appeals to you, get the light hot then go into thermal config mode. Set the calibration to 1 click, and set the limit to 40 clicks. This should effectively disable thermal regulation, by raising the temperature limit to like 100 C or hotter.
Again though, I don’t recommend this. It can easily cause burns or damage.
I’ve never actually seen a SST-20 6500K. I don’t have a good answer.
I hope so. I sent Hank new firmware twice since the D4 V2 was released, including just yesterday.
The default ramp settings are in the first post of this thread, and the default temperature limit is 45 C.
Occasionally some of the changes aren’t improvements though. I found a brand new bug yesterday. More on that in another post though.
Yes. Muggle mode uses the same temperature limit as the regular mode.
Nope. At least, not without modifying the firmware. That’s the power-on self test (POST), which confirms that power is connected and main LEDs work.
Yeah, the idea is that you should hold the button until it gets to the color you want, and then let go.
… having a bad day?
Indeed. There can be pretty significant differences in tint and lumens, and it’s totally random.
:+1: on this too. Different people are different. And that’s okay.
It’s hard for me to not see green tints as green, regardless of what the light is shining at. My eyes don’t adapt to it. They seem to have one setting, and that setting is below the BBL.
I would if I could, BabyDoc.
3A and 3D have the same amount of rosy tint, but different color temperatures.
The wording in the diagram is a very deliberate decision, for the purpose of avoiding ambiguity.
It may not be immediately intuitive, because the numbering system starts at zero… but doing it this way ensures there is enough information to figure out the meaning with a bit of thought. Starting it at zero removes any question about whether “Click, Click, Hold” involves pressing the button two times or three times, but starting the counting system at one leaves it unclear. It’s much the same as why “twentieth century” refers to the 1900s.
Basically, starting with “click & hold” makes it ambiguous whether that means “press and don’t let go” or “press, release, then press and don’t let go”. So it starts with just “hold” to make it clear that there is absolutely not a press-and-release beforehand.
So I found a bug. Hank is probably pretty unhappy with me for not finding it sooner, but it’s pretty easy to miss. It requires a few independent moving parts to activate:
- It seems that adding LVP in sleep mode made it do temperature measurements too, and thermal events. Like, in sleep mode. That’s not a problem by itself though; should be harmless.
- It also seems that, after 15 minutes, if the cell is partially drained, temperature measurements while asleep are suddenly waaaay off. But again, that shouldn’t be a problem by itself, since the “off” and “lockout” and “momentary” modes all ignore thermal events.
- However, muggle mode wasn’t ignoring thermal events while it was off.
So muggle mode has some really weird and not-good behavior. After being off for 15 minutes, on a cell which isn’t full, it gets spurious overheat warnings and tries to step down… but stepping down from 0 causes it to wrap around and turn on again, and then it goes back to sleep, then gets another warning, then goes back to sleep, etc. This makes it blink while off, but only in muggle mode, and only after being off for more than 15 minutes.
I sent Hank an update which fixes this, but it’s something to be aware of for the D4v2 lights which have already been shipped. With these early units, I wouldn’t recommend relying on muggle mode.
No other lights are affected.
If anyone has a pogo pin adapter for firmware updates, a fixed version is available.
Time to get one of those nifty USB programming thingies I guess. ;-)
Where can I buy one of the needle electrode dongles that fits the Emisar's flashing vias?
+1 :+1:
+1
I bought 2 D4V2s… one for myself (flashaholic) and one as a gift to my brother-in-law (100% muggle) :person_facepalming:
Probably not the safest idea to buy a muggle this flashlight, but I figured I could explain everything to him or start him in muggle mode… sounds like that’s not happening
Oh, did my muggle-mode runtime graphs (just posted) illustrate the issue??
https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/57633
ToyKeeper wrote:
Someone really does need to start selling those!
After 35 years as a software engineer I am convinced that there’s something about the act of pushing code to production that causes bugs to spontaneously appear.
I would have 4.
I have found a serious problem with muggle mode in my new D4v2. Left in the off state for 14-15 minutes, the light will turn itself on - usually in some very bright mode such as tactical strobe or turbo.
First time round the room was unattended and the light was VERY hot when the condition was discovered. That might explain the earlier posts where folk report unattended lights damaging themselves, apparently by overheating.
It also suggests that the temperature regulation is failing in muggle mode. There is presumably a connection to the problems in muggle mode that TK has indicated just recently. But the auto turning on at full power is a new problem and a very worrying one.
I have four earlier Emisar lights, so while I’m new here I’m not entirely a newby.
Just left mine off for about three hours in muggle mode - nothing happened. However, the battery was fully charged. Per my graphs here, the only anomaly occurs when the battery is almost depleted.
It just gets amazing & amazinger. 
sorry, the latest news regarding the issue with the first generation D4 v2 in muggle mode is anything but amazing, in my opinion 
is there a d4v2 with no muggle mode? can’t get it there on mine…
thanks!
TK identified this error and fixed it with updated firmware. Something about the temperature regulation not stopping when the light is off in muggle mode on first generation D4V2. Output continues to ramp down until it recycles from the top and you get max power or something like that.
Fortunately, this only affects Muggle Mode. Normal mode is not affected. Unfortunately, the only way to fix this if your light has it is to reflash the driver with updated firmware.
See Toykeeper's comments in this thread HERE. You might have gotten one of those - assuming you're going into muggle mode correctly.