Thanks , that’s what I thought but was not sure , I hope it fits the D18 though.
oh well… i think i have an even worse problem here.
The tan finish of the D4V2 does not match the D18! 
There were previous reports about the tan being more gold and that’s my impression too. The tan D18 was already a bit borderline but acceptable - although not anywhere close to some kind of army/desert color. But the tan color on the D4V2 is just slightly on the other side where it feels more ‘gold’ then i would have expected. It does not show that much on pictures though.
I hope my next tuesday guests won’t notice… Should i put them away just in case? - confiusion and distress here.
…Just joking of course. 
I think the colour needs reflashing 
I put my D4v2 in muggle mode and it promptly grabbed my kid and wife and is holding them hostage in the west wing of the estate. I demand the following from Hank as compensation:
1. FREE POGO pin adapter
2. Moderately-armed SWAT team proficient in flashlight Aikido and defense
3. Some sort of impartial stranger I can use as a blood sacrifice to satiate/distract the D4v2 while the SWAT team enters from the patio
JK, all this was said in farce. Props to TK and Hank for looking out for us and keeping us up to date on the new developments. Look at this in a positive light: WORLD’S FIRST FLASHLIGHT WITH DELAYED SELF-DESTRUCT MODE. It’s not a problem; it’s a feature. But seriously, everyone stay safe and don’t burn anything.
When the swat team has finished at yours can you send them my way because my D18 steps down to early. There’s no chance of it overheating or catching fire though 
This was refreshing
Yes! This is the silver lining. As flashlights become more and more progammable, there will be more bugs, as well as more improvements. The ability to update firmware/software is becoming more imperative. I hope that the longer term outcome of this unfortunate, but very obscure, bug is not to discourage Hank and Toykeeper, but rather the opposite: to encourage them to create ever more advanced lights, knowing that bugs can be quickly corrected, and improvements just as quickly added and distributed.
As soon as I have the flashing kit, I would be more than happy to volunteer to reflash the faulty firmware for those who do not wish to do so themselves. Maybe someone could start a list of volunteers and their general locations.
Think of “muggle mode” more as an anti-theft feature, rather than a bug.
Put your light in muggle mode when storing it somewhere where there’s a risk it might get stolen.
When a thief steals your light, it burns his house down 15 minutes later.
Karma satisfied.
You can never have enough D4V2's.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0YetBY6wixc
Anyone speak German? - I think he owns a store.
Put it in muggles mode, wait half hour, maybe heat will change the shade.
Yup, he does 
I don’t speak German, but I have him on my YT subscriptions as he always have the most recent lights and gives some hints on tint colours, UI and also some related stuff (EDC gear and more)!
He was one of the first showing the AUX Leds on the D4V2!
I just joined to throw in my two cents. I ordered one light from intl-outdoor and another from mtnelectronics.
I came here via a circuitous route: I got the email from intl-outdoor a couple days ago, googled “D4V2 muggle mode” and found a Reddit thread, then found a link from there to this thread here. I have not yet received any notification from mtnelectronics (which is not to say that they aren’t sending them, just that I haven’t gotten one yet).
First, the problem with muggle mode.
If you want to be safe, a quarter-turn to the tailcap when storing the light appears to disconnect the battery. Problem solved. Yes, you lose out on the fancy RGB LEDs, but you win peace of mind. This seems like an easy enough solution if you’re really worried about it.
And a few choice comments on the subject…
Do you think that releasing the source code could have possibly caught the bug in muggle mode before production? This is not a facetious question; how serious is the code-reviewing community when it comes to BLF, etc? Would crowdsourcing the code review have helped?
While it is TK’s code that contains the mistake, and TK does bear a responsibility for that code, “fault” usually indicates some level of intent or recklessness that isn’t present here. And, when we’re being really critical about it, the issue is that the temperature sensing system gives off bad readings when the device is in sleep mode. The underlying fault (in the technical sense, not in the assigning-blame sense) is with the temperature sensing system which could be a hardware problem and not actually a code problem.
Basically anyone who has tested software for more than a few years.
This statement is not meant to trivialize the matter, but to show deference to those that are skilled in the ways that many of us are not.
I worked with a guy about a decade ago on a piece of multi-touch interface equipment that recognized special QR-code-like tags on objects and this guy developed a test harness using an oscillating desk fan and strips of paper with the codes on the ends that would flop around on the touch interface. That device found dozens of bugs. Software testers embrace the ideal of “think different.”
This is why I asked the question about crowdsourcing the code review above; in a similar vein, maybe an extended beta test could also have helped. I don’t get the impression that TK is a software tester, but in a large enough community there are bound to be a few that could lend a hand.
Second, the solution with muggle mode.
I’ve been puttering around a bit and have found at least one vendor that sells pogo-pin arrays. What is the pitch on the contacts in the D4V2? It looks like the programming key is just an interface between a pin header of one type to a 2x4 grid of pogo pins; if a prebuilt 2x4 array of pogo pins is available, can the board be taken out of the picture entirely? (I’m not exactly an electronics person, please be gentle 
)
My take and I’m running yet another test.
Never use muggle and leave the light out of your sight.
Full cell, or at least 4.15v-4.20v, so far, not an issue, but it’s not absolute, since I think (pretty sure) I just had it spaz out after even a minute, but right now, on my third test, I’m at 45 minutes with no spazzing.
If you decide to click into muggle, just click out of it, even if you turn it off, wait and it starts spazzing, so even then, six clicks and it’s over.
Like me, just don’t use muggle.
Send it back for a new light and hopefully a coupon for a small discount on your next light.
Wait for the Anal Prob and fix it yourself.
I’m just going to live with things and chalk it up to ‘nothing’s perfect’ and being thankful for inexpensive awesome lights (I have 4) from Hank and TK (and others’) work.
Chris
I have seen this mentality time and time again in various communities. I will give an example, in the early emulation days plenty of developers who donated their time to building amazing software quit. Most of those developers quit because of the constant complaining from people in the community. It is very easy to say what a developer should test or do, when you are not the person writing the code or doing the work. People have lives outside of this community and TK does this part time with little pay to show for it. She has to work on other projects to earn a living. She does not live to serve you.
Instead of complaining constantly about this missing feature or that bug, how about contributing a monthly amount of money towards the open source development that she does? I have taken multiple courses in C/C+ and understand the time she has committed for the good of the community. I contribute money monthly via Patreon and I still don’t feel entitled or that TK owes me anything. Lack of funding is an issue that open source development has dealt with from the beginning, and if you can’t personally contribute code or resources then your constant complaining will help nothing. Almost none of you who criticize have real experience in programming or any form of computer science. If you do have experience and you don’t contribute code then you have no right to complain. In the end ToyKeeper is a person who is capable of making mistakes, let’s not pretend that you don’t either.
Both of the lights i received are defective and will come on at high output without any stepdown. In muggle mode.
Battery check at 4.1 volts.
I haven’t received any warning email, found out via Reddit.
The website says defective products will be repaired free of charge.
https://intl-outdoor.com/-ezp-23.html
Shame it’s turned out this way
I’ll wait and see what happens, but i paid with paypal so i’m covered.
I didn’t get any email about this muggle mode issue, but I also don’t ever use it because I just use my head when using the light. Kind of a non issue for me honestly.
I am having issues figuring out how to mimic the tactical mode from the D4 though, I liked setting it to that when I go for walks because it’s just an instant turbo mode any time I press the button. I think the memory mode might do something similar?
You don’t have a physically defective product. You have software with a bug. There is nothing wrong with the hardware in your flashlight. It seems to be a real stretch to try and argue what you are. Do you attempt to send back your PC to the manufacturer anytime Windows has an error?
You had one job TK!
Still, it’s not as bad as that time I blew up a hospitals sub mains and the backup generators weren’t connected
I think we will be looking at a “difficulty factor” of 10 or less. As someone who figured out how to flash lights (with help from others) just before all of this blew up, the part I found most difficult was putting together all of the details of the hardware and software needed from multiple threads. The actual process turned out to be quite simple.
The kit should eliminate the uncertainty on the hardware side. With a lot of people needing to do this I am certain there will be one or more sets of step-by-step instructions explaining exactly what to do. (And if there aren’t I will help write one.)
I’m hesitant to guess about the cost of the kit, but I can tell you that all of the hardware, except for the pogo-pin adapter, can be purchased for well under $10. At low-volume pricing the parts for the pogo-pin adapter amount to around another $5. And all of the software is available for free.
I ordered all the stuff I need off of aliexpress not too long ago (yet not long enough to have received any of it) and it was about $10 for pogo pins, usbasp, soic clip, and some wires. It was another $2 or so to get the key from oshpark, which you can find in this post.