My flash kit instructions have been posted here:
Wow! This thread has blown up since I was last able to sit down and read. I’m sorry if I missed it, but is there a link for purchasing the kit? I also looked on Hank’s site and didn’t see it.
No link yet - for the flash kit. Soon, I think.
In the US, Title 40, Code of Federal Regulations, Parts 1027 through 1074.
The statistic you cite is relevant specifically to sulfur, which is nearly absent in gasoline and on-road diesel due to removal during the refining process.
The US isn’t able to regulate non-US flagged ships, except to a limited degree when they are in US waters as provided for by participation in the International Maritime Organization and related treaties. Now that there is widespread regulation of emissions for cars, which were a higher priority due to their persistent proximity to large numbers of people, there are efforts in work to also address ship emissions. The first major step actually happened in 2005 when the Maritime Pollution treaty Annex VI was signed, and will take effect in 2020.
That’s probably enough background for now on this tangent we both wandered off on.
I’ve never flashed anything before. Your instructions right now look a bit complex for me, but hopefully do able. Could you post a picture there showing the orientation of the pogo pins on the flashing pad of the light. Exactly, which pin goes where?
The orientation of the pins can only go one way - and still have all six pins match the six PCB pads. There are four flash pads in one row and two in the other. Trust me, when you receive the kit, you will see what I mean. Just have good lighting over the D4V2 head when aligning the pins to the pads.
Yes, it looks a bit complex at first. Some of it will be intuitive (and too much detail) for computer savvy folks. However, I wanted to make sure the instructions were detailed enough - that almost anyone could follow it.
Thank you so much for the information!
There is an old thread here on BLF that is all about salvaging good cells from laptop battery packs on ebay. One of the packs mentioned in that thread had 18500 cells. I didn’t have any lights that would take 18500 cells, but I got one of those packs anyway just because it was really cheap
All the cells were in great condition and measured 1700mAh. I’ve had those cells in long term cold storage just waiting for the perfect light.
Now I have the perfect light.
My D4V2 with 18500 tube is the best light I own. So far. Ergonomics are perfect- very easy to locate the switch by feel, and the switch is large and has a nice click. I have the UI configure to always start in low, and long press to ramp up or down. Double click for max. At this moment, I have the aux LEDs set to monitor cell voltage, but I play with that setting a lot.
I still have 7 more of those 18500 cells looking for a good home, so I hope Hank makes more colors available for this light. My green D4S needs little brother.
I would be very worried about using laptop pack cells in a D4v2 - even brand new cells. The D4v2 just draws way too much power for me to feel comfortable with anything but high drain cells.
Hi, just a quick note… Sorry about the slow responses; I’m in the middle of moving, so I’ve been a little preoccupied with packing and boxes and such. I should have more time again in a few days.
Single-emitter lights that use FET drivers can take laptop cells; the voltage sag is enough to drop current to reasonable levels for low(ish) drain cells. But, yeah, quad-emitters are another issue. If you’re really going to use laptop cells, run it for a minute or so and then feel the battery. If it’s getting hot, definitely don’t use it. Even if it’s not hot, it may not be a good idea. Frankly, I’m surprised the D4 recommends any 18500 cells… are there any good high-drain ones?
OTOH, the D4 overheats so quickly that it might not suck high current out of a battery for very long. While cells don’t have official “burst” specs, they can usually take a high(ish) current for brief periods.
I use the Efest purple 1000mAh 18500. It has the best output I’ve seen with a quad arrangement and my Gold D4V2 with Samsung W6 emitters makes a little over 3000 lumens on this cell. Granted, a good 18650 shows 4820 lumens but I still prefer the size offered by the 18500.
Don’t worry, we will always support you. We will wait, take your time…
I’ve got my first ever emisar and this D4V2 is one cool light. I did get the early version with the muggle mode issue and have another D4V2 ordered as well being my 1st one does not have all of the auxiliary colors. When going through my colors they are as follows. The first 3 colors are 3 different shades/brightness of red one of them almost looking orange. Followed by a blue/pink, then blue then 2 more blue/pink. Each of the blue pinks are different in the brightness making for some really cool color combinations so the light is unique for sure but I have no yellow and no green so I just ordered another, so I’ll have 2 emisar d4v2 XPL HI V3 1A 6500K. Yep I’m a newb so the brightness whitest version possible is what interest me. I’ve seen many say that 6500k is blue but I don’t really see this. So does this mean 5000k would be even more white to me ?? Im looking for the brightest white, I’m still trying to figure out all of the different levels of colors. I do know I really don’t care for anything 4000k or under.
Anyway I have a question, when I ramp up, or down for that matter I get 1flicker towards the top of the ramp when ramping up and also one towards the bottom when ramping down. Is this normal? By flicker I mean just a quick dead spot. I have a fireflies e07 as well and it’s ramp does not have any type of flicker just a completely smooth ramp from dim to bright.
As for my auxiliary issue not having green and yellow is in a way,really cool I have a unique D4V2, but being I did want all colors hank offered a discount which I decided I would use to buy my second D4V2. My first unique one is the gold color so my second I’ve choose the dark grey. Just found this forum a month or so ago, maybe longer (time flies) and I can’t stop buying flashlights, my wife thinks I’m crazy.
There’s a good chance all you need to do is turn the aux to high and they will show up but I suppose the green aux wire could have come detached?
Hi Jake, I’m also a newb, but have picked up a few things along the way. 6500k is actually blue, hence why is might be called “cold white,” but many people can perceive different colors from there eyesight. Im not sure what you mean by “white light?” Do you mean like you expect the color of white paper to come out the light or do you want the color of the “sun” white? Many people consider 4000k-5000k to be neutral white in there flashlights.
That little flicker is normal. Anyone correct me if Im wrong but that is the highest regulated output in the flashlight. I guess that means that the flashlight can maintain that level consistently without stepping down in brightness. Again I am no expert and I’m sure there are people more educated and knowledgeable than me who can give a better explanation.
On the issue of tint/color, there is a range of options from red to blue. Lower K measurements are on the red side and and higher measurements are on the blue side. The middle is “neutral”, and the most “pure” white. Typically this neutral range is somewhere around 4500K-5000k for most peoples eyes. 6500K has more blue (not “blue”, but more blue than lower numbers). 2700k would be pretty orange looking, and 4000k (to me) has a slight yellow twinge to it. There is more to it than that, but if you are looking for the “whitest” white, go for the 5000k in either the SST20 or the XPL-HI (many prefer the tint of the XPL-HI and it is brighter to boot). It’ll be a little less blue than your 6500k light. If you turn them both on and shine the light at a white wall you’ll get a good comparison for future lights.
Tint is subjective, and we are all different. Most find the more neutral tints to be pleasant, some prefer the more incandescent looking lower tints, and a few love the higher temp color of cheap ebay HID retrofit kits (“angry blue” as some here call it).
The blink on the ramp is a feature. I believe it indicates when you have ramped to the end of the regulated modes (or back into them).
Sounds like a defective light. Either the green is not working on your aux LEDs, or you don't see it.
It’s the same with the aux lights on high or low so it’s definitely the green is not working.