TK's Emisar D4V2 review

After reading this I’m going to have to try something in the 5000k range being I may end up liking it better than 6500k.

I think somewhere between 4500K and 5000k is my favorite tint.

Of all the emitters in my lights, I prefer the almost perfect white tint of my lights using 5000K Nichia 219C’s and 5000k XPL-HI’s (slightly pinkish or “rosy” by my eyes). I’m going to have to try some Nichia 219B SW45k R9080 emitters in something one day. I have a few with the 4000k SST-20s that have some green in them, I can see it, but it doesn’t bug me so much in the real world. These give me a little extra help identifying colors when I’m working in the dark (for my use, I sometimes have to distinguish between brown, orange, and green in the dark), so the green is forgivable

The answer is to explore lots of different emitters and tints until you know what you like.

Yes, it’s normal. When you ramp down the flicker indicates max regulated mode(AFAIK ~140 lm), when you ramp up the flicker indicates ramp ceiling level(I am not sure, but if I remember it right it should be 120 out of 150, where 150 is Turbo).

How you perceive white depends on other sources of light present in the environment where you are using your flashlight. For example, in the dark basement 4000k light will be perceived as white with a slight almost not noticeable yellow tint, while in the presence of daylight 4000k will look explicitly yellow. The same principle can be applied to 6500k light, indoors near warm incandescent lamp the 6500k light will look bluish, outdoors at noon it will give the impression of bright white.

I received my D4V2 yesterday (ordered on the 15th, so it probably has the muggle mode bug as well), and I’m having the same issue with my green aux LEDs. It’ll cycle through blue, pink, red, off, then back to blue. It seems to spend more time on the blue and red, which makes me suspect that it’s cycling to other colors that require green, but the green LEDs just aren’t working to make those colors.

I assume that I have a defective light as well, and I’m thinking about contacting Hank. I’m not looking forward to shipping the light back and waiting for another. Round trip, that’ll take over a month if Hank needs the light back first. At least with a new D4V2, I won’t need to worry about the muggle mode issue, though I still plan on purchasing the flashing kit.

Also, hello, everyone! This is my first post here, but I’ve been a lurker for a while. I love the work that ToyKeeper and Hank have done, and I love this community. I look forward to participating more.

Edit: After playing with the light a bit and leaving it overnight, I tested it again, and the green LEDs seem to work on both low and high, and I can get the full rainbow cycle. I don’t know if something was loose, but it seems to function properly for the time being. I’ll have to monitor it.

Welcome! This is a great place.

What part of the world are you in? My D4V2 was shipped on the 15th, and I am hoping it will be here soon. Hard to be patient when waiting for these things to arrive…

I tested mine, it started self-cooking at 23mn40s… At the beginning, you may think it’s some kind of “surprise hidden mode” but it is the special beginner mode called “Muggle”.

Let’s think positive > there is some applications for that “special mode”

For example, if you don’t like your neighbors, you just have to set the Muggle mode (6 clicks from off) and throw it in their garden (close to any good combustible materials…)

Advantage? It looks like an accident.

This is true “power of positive thinking”.

In fact, I would like TK to custom made an improved “Muggle” mode. A program that set the auto-destruction of the unit with a simple UI.

>6 click to enter Muggle (that’s fine, just keep it!) then, 4 “clicks hold” to set /day/month/hour/mn (with the mini gzzzgzz strobe to set each sequence, keep that fx, I like it too!)

When the countdown is over, Super Turbo Max mode starts and the Magik’Muggle cut the temperature sensor.

I believe in sharing good ideas with the community. Sharing is good.
I hope TK or anybody, with passion and truly inspired by innovation and functionality help to finalize that project.


Actually the idea of a ‘self-destruct mode’ seems pretty cool. In the event I ever get robbed, a few clicks from off will activate this mode so the attacker will later find a nice surprise in his pocket… :stuck_out_tongue:

Just got my replacement head from Hank today - All fine and dandy, been testing the light for the past couple of minutes and working flawlessly.

Very fast replies from him and very good support.

Now, waiting for the XP-L HI MCPCB kit that I've also ordered, as I couldn't stand the SST-20's tint shifting with brightness and the beam pattern overall.

Happy camper :)

Now I have a spare head that might be functional and no idea what to do with it. Well, I guess it's going to be surgery (*ahem.. gutting) first and ideas later..

Nice light, but especially nice UI.

Would still like to see some small functional changes in Anduril and I'm going to make a mention of them at some point, but for now, I might just enjoy this light being functional :)

Oh.. and not to forget, I really like the compact 18500 size (bought 2 x 2000 mAh Vapcells and already had the 18500 since the 1st order of the light itself)

I wish more lights would be made for or supporting the option of the 18500 format cells - For an EDC light that would get little to no daily use, I find a 2000 mAh cell to be plenty :)

I too use a Mac. Make sure that you are logged on as administrator. Go to the App Store and install Xcode (if not installed). In a browser go to Copy the line of text you see there. Open the terminal (command+space bar and type “terminal” no quotes) paste and hit return. Password is what you use to log onto your computer if it asks. Next step is to open a browser and go to search for avrdude. Follow the instructions (more copy and paste into terminal window) . After it finishes (I have an older Mac so it took some time) it will return to the command line. Type avrdude and list of modifiers will show that the program is installed.
Can’t check further without the hardware from Hank. I don’t know where you put the hex file to flash to the light.

I have not done this before, so if what is above is incorrect please let me know (kindly,if possible)
Any help would be appreciated.

Got my OshPark order today, yes I ordered the wrong pcb thickness for the keys! :person_facepalming:

New correct ones are already on order as I had already discovered that I forgot to tick a box I didn’t know to tick. And so it goes… now, if my pins were here I could play angle games like Terry and screw up a bunch of stuff (could get lucky, who knows?) I might play around with some coax cable and see what happens.

Yes, this is another brilliant idea. The D4v2 has a tremendous potential in that specific field of applications.

Of course, the D4v2 version was only accessible to few privileged customers.

But hey? It’s part of the game, those who love involving all together, hands in hands all around the world, like a true family, those who are enthusiast in functionality, only such meritorious men, women (and children) deserve the Best.

I will preciously keep this limited edition (Deluxe) on my bedside table, keeping the rainbow mode on, night and days… Every morning, I will look at it, breath deeply and realize :

That’s one small bug for a man, one giant leap for Muggle kind.

God Bless you my brother ! Amen !

in the german Taschenlampenforum 2 guys experienced a new, strange behaviour:

they played with the lights and loosened the tailcap to lock out the flashlight.
then closed the tailcap again - Aux came on for a few seconds and suddenly the main LEDs ramped to max while the button was not responsive!
same after repeadtely locking / unlocking via the tailcap and even trying the "factory reset" procedure...

one guy said he let the light sit without cell over night and since then its working without issues?

of course they are worried if there is a new bug?

Sounds more like a defective switch that got stuck in the on position?

If the switch was stuck on I think it would do a factory reset, in which case you would see blinking and stuff.

Only the new firmware has reset

Oh, I see.

The reflashing kits are for sale now.

I’m not sure if we should offer the OTG adapter, if you already have the OTG adpater, please forget about it.

Awesome, ordered one. :-)

Flash kit ordered.

Neat, he recommends using Android and can supply the adapter (for a fair price, too)