TK's Emisar D4V2 review

How very dare you :smiley:

According to 4PX tracking, my D4V2 arrived in the US a few days ago, but hasn’t moved since. How are you guys tracking it once it hits the states? DHL, USPS, UPS? Hank sent me 2 tracking numbers, but only 1 has worked in 4PX.

I’m just eager to get to play with (cough) utilize my new light :partying_face:


Thanks contactcr! :+1:

Both mine got stuck in customs (LAX) for about five days.

From customs, it went to DHL, then to USPS for final delivery. USPS tracking will work as well.

I know about the problem in muggle mode. But, just for grins, I ran my cell down to about 3.7V, put the light in muggle mode in the off position, and let it sit in front of me while I was on the computer. Exactly 15 minutes later it cane ON, I think it was flashing, I don’t recall as I just picked it up and turned it off. It startled me :slight_smile:

one of my best lights out of some 120 or so.

I didn’t pay for the $2.00 shipping option… does Hank still have tracking info on his end?

I’m getting a bit impatient with the slow boat, and I know you just have to wait it out… just hoping he’ll be able to tell if it never makes it.

Yea mine is hard to trace. 4PX says it landed in Chicago 8/3. DHL says it left NY on 7/31 and is “EN ROUTE TO DHL ECOMMERCE DISTRIBUTION CENTER.” USPS is still waiting to receive the parcel.

Oddly enough, the only DHL website that shows the tracking is the one contactcr posted. Even a Google search for all DHL tracking wont show my tracking info.

If it wasn’t such a cool light I wouldn’t normally mind the wait :sunglasses:

After using my D4v2 for some time, I am convinced that this thing needs some kind of liquid cooling accessory, for example a cooling pouch. I am serious, D4v2 gets super hot in no time and drops output too fast for my taste, so I took a small towel rolled D4V2 inside poured a little bit of water near the head and voilà my sst20 4000k could sustain ~1400 lm for 5 minutes(my hand got tired), the body temp was about about 50 °C.

I don’t think Atmel or Hank did anything wrong. I made a bug, and it’s not anyone else’s fault.

Indeed, you could. It’s pretty quick and easy. But it’s not easy to carry a pogo pin adapter around… they’re a bit fragile, and sharp.

I’m a bit late now, but yes… it’s available here:

There’s a thread for that. :slight_smile:

People are encouraged to change whatever they want, and customize it to taste. And when people come up with ideas a lot of other people like, it often goes into the default builds.

It sounds like you don’t need one, but it’s still nice to have in case you ever want to change or update the firmware. It’s designed to be relatively easy to dive into, if you’re interested.

That sounds like what a few people experienced with the original D4. The short version is: A switch wire was pinched between the edge of the driver and the narrow shelf the driver rests on. When the body tube was only a little bit tight, the light worked fine… but when the body tube was tightened more, it shorted the wire and made it think the switch was being pressed.

One of the symptoms of this issue is, usually, the driver’s outer ring shows uneven wear patterns. It gets worn on one side where the wire is in the way, while having no contact at all on the other side.

One of my original D4 lights did this. I fixed it by pushing the driver out, moving the wire out of the way, and putting the driver back in. The wire was still damaged though, and a couple years later the wire finally broke. I replaced the wire though, and it was fine again.

Good to see you back, TK! Hope the move went well and was as stress free as possible. At 53, I've only moved twice in my life and it's just about my least favorite thing to do.

TK, do you have any insight on how the board is attached into the tailcap? Is it glued in with some industrial strength adhesive? I want to remove it and make a plain tailcap into a magnetic one. I was thinking maybe take a heat gun to it and see what happens.

I’m still moving things… just trying to catch up on some threads and projects before I shut down the computer. That’s the hardest part, especially for someone who keeps literally hundreds of windows open.

Anyway, the tail PCB is simply glued into the tailcap. And if I understand correctly, I think the magnetic tailcap might be a bit longer than the non-magnetic one, to make room for the magnet. But I don’t have a plain v2 tailcap to measure, so I’m not sure.

My magnetic tailcap is 17mm tall. If your plain tailcap is the same size, it may have room for a magnet inside.

Oh, I already have one magnetic tailcap and one plain but want to make the plain one magnetic as well. Also, I'd like a little stronger of a magnet. Both tailcaps are identical in height at 17mm. I'm guessing there is a pocket milled out in the middle of all the tailcaps to accomodate a magnet.

I'll update here once I get the board out of the plain one as well as dimensions for magnets in case others want to know.

I received my sand colored D4V2 with SST20 3000k LEDs. I usually go for neutral tint, and occasionally cool tints. This was my first warm tint light and I like it more than I thought I would. Great bedside table light, especially the candle mode. :sunglasses:

I really don’t care for the sand color though. It’s gold. I wish someone would do a sand that looks more like a desert camo beige.

Great work Hank and TK! :slight_smile: :+1:

Well, that's not happening. I had the tailcap so hot, I was afraid I was going to melt the solder on the spring and the board never budged. At all. I know I can get it out but only by destroying the board or tailcap in the process. :(

I expected it to look like my sand D18 but it is basically gold or brass. I don’t really mind, but I wish it had been described more accurately. My guess is that the same finish was requested as on the D18 but the anodizing came out differently for some reason.

Desolder the spring and destroy it then. You can replace it with a thin sheet of copper since there is no switch.

I like using “heaters” (flashlights) on cold winter nights. They never step down, and their temperature can reach slightly warm to the touch (if you take your gloves off, which isn’t recommended.) Yeah, they will eat through a full battery in about 20-30 minutes, but it’s fun while it lasts.

That’s great when you actually GET cold nights! :slight_smile: These days we’re lucky to get below 80F at night… I’ve seen it 101F at midnight way too many times! Even 85 degrees at 3 in the morning, makes it tough for the “heater” lights to cool down.