To disable turbo completely, you would need to flash different firmware.
Yes, the “d4v2-219” build is created specifically to reduce the maximum power level to make it safer on lights with more sensitive LEDs. I’m not sure if it is low enough for 219B though, since it is meant for 219C. So my recommendation would be to use the 219 firmware and use a lower-amp cell like a 35E or MJ1.
My apologies. I seem to have forgotten about the ways of the source, Master ToyKeeper.
Thanks! I’ll try that. On turbo, it was pulling 17A on 219b, on high, it would pull 8A. Swapping a 10A battery, turbo would draw 12A (a little concerned that more amperage is being drawn than what the cell is capable of doing).
Would cutting the PWM make the leds draw less amperage?
@trailhunter
Not quite sure what you are trying to achieve?
The D4V2 is a "pocket rocket" and if you want to use the high/turbo settings you should use a capable battery that can deliver the amps needed - your 10A cells will suffer greatly from this.
If you don't want it to be that bright adjust the ramp ceiling level maybe and just don't use turbo?
I know I am talking about a different light, but the FW3A with 219 firmware works very well with the 219B sw40 leds. I am not sure if the addition of one more led would break that or not.
17A / 4 LEDs = 4.25A per LED, they can survive that, but not by a large margin. Did they turn blue or anything? If not, change to the 219 firmware and call it a day, after all even if the FET isn’t throttled as much as the FW3A version it’s one more LED so the current will be split more.
I really like the D4V2. Much more so than the FW3A or D4V1.
I prefer to hold my light in a handshake grip. It feels much more secure in the hand than the FW3A’s cigar grip.
The D4V2’s knurling is exceptional and provides an extremely secure grip. Combine that with Anduril for peace of mind in knowing that the light won’t burn a hole in my pocket if it accidentally comes on in the pocket and this light is a winner. Feels like a large upgrade to the D4V1.
Can the D4V2 be set lower in thermal management than the D4V1? Even if I set the D4V1 to “2 pause 7” blinks in thermal management it get’s glowing hot. Is it possible to set the D4V2 so I can forget it in a pocket without starting a fire? I always unscrew my V1 but… I’ve forgotten once and burned a hole in my pocket…
is there a usa store to buy this light>? and is it better then the fw3a?
Sounds like you are setting the ambient temp wrong. You by doing 2 pause 7 you are saying ambient temp is 2 degrees C and to step down at 37 degrees C
Better, idk, just different. I am edc’ing a 219b fw3a. The D4v2 is my night light, love the aux leds for a locator by the bed.
When I set it I do 10cliks and then hold until it blinks out current setting, keep holding until it buzzes and then when it goes to full power I release before it gets hot and as early as I can. This was the description I found for the D4V1 (2018 not this new one).
I did order the new one now to see if it’s any better. Love the d4 but the thermal is an issue if I forget it in my pocket…
do i choose the sst version if i care mostly about max output?
It depends on what you mean by “glowing hot”… For example, by setting the thermal limit to the minimum(31°C) on my D4v2 SST20 4000k the maximum temperature that I can get is about 44 °C on the head.(Ambient temp: 23°C | D4v2 current temp:24 °C | Fully charged Sony(Murata) VTC6 cell) If you want you can make it even lower by calibrating the current temperature to the higher than the actual values.
I see what you mean now. The D4v1 is pretty different for thermals. The D4v2 will probably do better to maintain lower temps but it can always overshoot if the light is already warm and you hit turbo it kind of has a minimum time it will stay on so it can still overshoot the floor. I still think it will be better than v1.
You’d want XPL HI for maximum output. Higher color temperature emitters (K value) typically output more lumens than the lower color temperature variants of the same emitter, but the higher you go, the more blue it gets.
That’s way too much for those emitters. It would probably be a good idea to add resistance somehow… like using thinner wires, lower-performing springs, a lower-performance battery, or other things along those lines. Reducing the PWM limit could help too, but it’ll still be pulsing maximum power even if not for as long. Maybe that means using 50% as a limit, or maybe 33%, or … something. You’d have to calibrate that yourself since it’s not a supported configuration.
The D4 is built for maximum performance, and the 219B emitters really aren’t. So you will probably need to find ways to artificially make the D4 not perform like it’s designed to.
No. Because, depending on what it is aimed at, it can start a fire in a couple seconds — before the D4 itself even gets warm. If the inside of your pocket is the right type of dark-colored fabric, there could be fire almost immediately. Thermal regulation can’t do anything about that.
This is good info here. Tk, so if I go with smaller gauge leads/longer or thinner springs to increase resistance, does that cause any fire/heat concerns that could lead to melting of those components?