Easiest way to do it is to manually set the max ramp to just below the level where pocket damage would occur. That’s what I did.
If the button is accidentally depressed in your pocket the most that’s likely to happen is for the light to ramp up to max ramp. So long as you set that to a safe level you should be fine.
You can still get to pocket burning turbo, but the only way to activate it is to turn the light on, and then while it’s on double-click. The chances of that happening in the pocket accidentally is virtually nil.
We have produced some retaining ring which is 1mm+ higher than the rubber boot,
the chance of the switch to be accidently pressed in the pocket is seriouly reduced.
New
Old
It is free of charge, please leave us a note if you want the new retaing ring.
Hank, I have a D4V2 where the rubber doesn’t stick out enough to have the flashlight accidentally switched on (maybe one or two thenth of a mm). Can take a picture later today, but I wonder why that is. Anything wrong with my D4? I mean, it feels ok. Really good, actually. Never had a problem with that.
I think it is not the switch, they are all the same, the difference is the rubber boot under different pressing force. Technically, even if your boot does not stick out, it can still be accidentally switched on.
I would bet the same tricks used to remove an Olight bezel would work. I may try on mine, I would really like this option. So, razor blade and shoe knife here I come.
Do you have any details to share about the driver and firmware beyond what you posted in that thread?
It seems there are few 4-channel drivers currently available, especially that allow variable mixing.
Dr. Jones (Capable of mixing) - out of production
Meld-X (Capable of mixing) - out of production
Mountain Electronics (simple) - sold out
Kaidomain KZ-3016 (simple) - 3-channel
My personal interest is RGBA (I want to play with Clemence’s phosphor-converted color E17A’s).
It is extremely easy to remove the Retaining Ring on the Emisar D4 series lights without damaging the light or the button boot.
Tools needed:
Victorinox mini pocket knife. The standard one with the nailfile with small flat tip screwdriver at the tip.
Instructions:
Open the nailfile of your Victorinox mini with flat-tip screwdriver at the end.
Place the light flat on table or in a vise, with the button face-up. If not holding it in a vise, hold the light down with your left hand.
Hold the knife in your right hand with the nailfile face up, perpendicular to the light.
Slide the nailfile over the top of the button boot at a 20 or 30 degree angle down until it hits the inside edge of the retaining ring.
Press the nailfile straight down as you push forward. If done right it should compress the edge of the button boot and slip under the bottom of the retaining ring.
Once the file is under the edge of the retaining ring, removing the boot is easy. Simply push down on the handle of the knife to lever the button boot off. Or roll the knife 90 degrees to accomplish the same effect.
Victorinox mini is a better choice than using a conventional screwdriver, because the edges of the mini are all rounded. It won’t tear up the button boot like a regular screwdriver would.
Once you get the hang of it, it takes maybe 5 seconds to remove the retaining ring on a D4 without damage to any of the parts. However, be advised that the ring itself is held in place with a friction fit. If you take off and replace the ring too many times the sharp edge of the steel retaining ring will eventually erode the aluminum socket and it will no longer stay in place. If that happens, use super glue to hold the ring to the head.
i have not had any accidental activation of my light (not including the bug on my early production d4v2). but would be cool to have a raised ring around the switch. i got some optional items on order from mtnelectronics on the way.
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