So the thermal regulation isn’t much better than the first attempt?
I’ve ordered a ProgKey board and a set of Pogo Pins, but I am not confident in my ability to solder them on properly. I have an iron, but this seems to call for reflow.
I would much rather buy an assembled key!
Have been contemplating ordering some parts and making a kit to get my hands wet with firmware flashing/modding. Been doing SMD soldering/tinkering at my day job for quite a few years now, so I’ve got no qualms jumping in head first. I’ve got a couple questions:
Is there a list of pin-outs for Atmel chips? I have the pin-outs for the 13A.
It would go pogo pins > jumper cables > USBASP?
If someone can help me out with the proper pin-outs and diagrams I’d be happy to whip up some kits for people here who are interested.
Doesn’t that totally negate the goal of lockout, to keep the light from coming on accidentally? Or are the 2 modes only pertinent to the low-powered aux emitters?
For the folks who keep talking about a recessed switch on the next version, maybe the mfr should roll out a light with no physical switch… a sound-activated version. You know, like Alexa.
“Emisar, turn on the light.”
“Emisar, full output now!”
Or maybe just, Clap on! Clap off!
ATtiny13 and 85 have same pinout
And you’re right re: cable order - here’s one I finished yesterday for the FT03 (was teaching the wife to solder, I mean I’m not that good but I’m not like this):
Sorta, but it’s handy to have a quick-on. Plus given its v low, if it does activate, it won’t be for long, and it won’t burn holes in things. Mechanical for real lock
Thank you, oweban!
It’d be awesome if you made some kits available. So far, nobody has been willing to make more than a couple.
About the two questions…
The goal of lockout is to make sure the light won’t burn anything or drain the battery overnight if accidentally clicked, or if left somewhere with the button pressed. And it does that. The levels are typically about 0.2 lm and 5 lm by default, and the former has a runtime of like 3 months.
That would be wonderful! Please put me down as your first customer.
Very much appreciated, TK!
What’s the best source for the programming keys? OSH Park? Is Lexel’s version the latest revision?
I’m thinking a jig will probably be the most efficient way to attach the pogo pins if doing them in large quantities.
The HQ ProgKey Universal is probably the one you’re looking for:
The boards are available from Oshpark and they’re relatively cheap since they’re so small. I’d recommend attaching wires to the boards instead of a header block, because it makes the thing easier to fit into tight spaces. The block ideally goes several cm away on the wires, or could even just be omitted if you can get a ribbon cable to fit. Then the other end of the cable can be configured however one wants, to fit a variety of different pad layouts.
I keep three full kits wired up — one for a SOIC8 clip, one for Emisar’s pad layout, and one for Lexel’s pad layout. One of the three has something weird with the usbasp device though; it stops working after one avrdude command, and then I have to unplug/replug the USB port to reset it. I’m not sure where that usbasp came from though. It looks just like the two I got from fasttech, except it doesn’t quite work the same. Have been meaning to order a couple more, and hopefully they’ll be more reliable.
Can you use the tube from d4 v1
curious on the aux LEDs, how bright are they? About the same as the FF E07? Is it fairly noticeable on the low vs high setting? If I take my E07 into a dark closet and turn on the aux LEDs and aim it at the ceiling, I can’t see them on the ceiling. Looking forward to that ‘rainbow’ setting
Is there the Aux “heartbeat” like on earlier versions of Anduril. bright beats, dim beats…
I only tested one, but yes. It looks like the tube is compatible.
I’m not sure. My sample has the resistors set up differently than a production version, so I can’t really measure that part.
Yes, that’s the pattern it uses in blinking mode.
Nice! Will it heartbeat in rainbow mode as it switches colors? Each color gets a heartbeat flash?
@ToyKeeper what aabout the 18350 tube from the v2 use it on the D1S? could yo see if it works
That sounds… counter-intuitive. To shift CCT warmer you need to be cutting out more of a wider range of colors vs simply filtering out a bit of the green range
The color cycling and brightness changes happen independent of each other, on different time scales, so it makes a pretty colorful pattern overall.
No. The D1S is not compatible with D4/D1 tubes.