I’m not sure. All I was told was a “thicker gasket” and this idea/advice came from Vinh. So, perhaps an O-ring underneath the optic (or spacer ring/shelf) or as you stated perhaps a gasket under the bezel…? I wonder how the aux. board effects this (if at all) since it sits on top of the main board.
Edit: The more I look at your picture, the more I think if the white ring were thicker, it would support the optic and keep it from crushing the LEDs.
The white ring is the “glow in the dark” tape. It’s very soft and fragile.
You can’t fit an o-ring under the optic.
I was thinking they could drill the 3 depressions that the optic legs sit in about 0.5mm less deep. This may not be practical as it’s easy to confuse it with the ones for the Nichia version.
The Aux board fits around the optic, so it has no effect.
Maybe they mean a thicker o-ring? Assuming the o-ring gets squeezed between the bezel and the top lip of the head it could allow the bezel to get tight without threading down so far as to crush the emitters.
If the o-ring gets squeezed between the bezel and the optic, then maybe a thinner o-ring could reduce the pressure pushing down on the optic.
Djozz makes a good point - I would give him some more time to respond. I am in a very similar situation as you - 219B ROT66 arrived with a damaged emitter, sent to Vinh, Fireflies sending replacement w/ aux. My light arrived to Vinh late last week, I emailed Jacky with tracking letting him know it had got there, and I just got notice yesterday around midnight that my replacement has been shipped out.
Just relax. My experience with Jacky was similar when he only owned Enogear before he started Fireflies. I asked him for a replacement head for the AA/14500 stainless steel flashlight where the driver got fried by using a 14500. He would respond and not respond for weeks or maybe even a month. When I thought it would be hopeless, I received a full flashlight replacement instead of just the head. He also included a bonus usb rechargeable 14500 version that is more expensive than the non rechargeable version I bought. So don’t worry, the guy is legit, but sometimes he takes forever to respond for reasons we can only guess. Sometimes when I get too many emails at work requiring responses and I’m overloaded, I decide not to even look at any of them until I can catch up a bit, but sometimes it gets so crazy I just don’t catch up. So maybe he’s just busy or it might be weekend for him.
I do wish his response times are more consistent though because I am more inclined to support a company with better customer service.
I’m relaxed. So relaxed that I ordered another ROT66 - this time the SST20 NW 95CRI version. I love this light and am anxious to see how the SST20 95CRI version looks. Spec-wise it should be even better than the Nichia version I already have, which is already awesome. I will also be curious to see if this new order ships before my replacement does. In my mind, my replacement should take priority over new orders, but I guess I’ll find out soon enough whether that’s the case or not. I know Fireflies/Jacky are legit or I wouldn’t be buying another light from them. I’m still disappointed with the delay on getting my replacement light though (which still hasn’t shipped yet ). Tomorrow will be one full week since Vinh received my defective light…
You’ll have to wait until Fireflies get them back in stock.
To install it you unscrew the bezel and lift out the plastic optics. The new circuit board drops right down on top and around the emitters. I don’t know if it uses sticky tape or not to hold it down. Maybe someone can comment on that.
Then it’s just a matter of removing the driver and soldering the positive and negative wires to it. Pictures should be forthcoming that show the solder locations. If I had a picture of the driver I could show you the locations.
Then you reinstall the driver, optics and the bezel. Done.
I’m surprised no one has taken pictures of their installation yet. I’m sure someone will eventually describe their installation and post pictures.
Here is the similar board in the Emisar D4S. The dark red pcb on top of the medium red mcpcb.
Since the ROT66 has screws on its mcpcb, I imagine it’s add on board will probably be screwed down as well.
The two extra wires get fed down to the driver.
Just as this picture shows the open areas around the emitters and the 4 legs around the edge, the ROT66 board should also have open areas around the emitters and it’s 3 legs. So it will not add any height or interfere with the optics at all.
The ROT66 has 2 wires going to its switch lights (plus a ground and switch wire). One switch led wire is constant power and one is to the MCU output. You can tie the aux lights to either wire. That way they stay on all the time or blink and can be turned off by the driver.
We will need to hear from Lexel to get details concerning whether the aux board has its own resistors (I assume it does).
Here is the actual board. This confirms that the aux board is held down by the same two screws that hold down the mcpcb. One of the screws acts as a ground for the aux board. This means only one wire needs to be dropped down to the driver.
No, one wire. They split after the wire and go to independent trimmers so you can adjust each rings brightness. I believe the low voltage circuit also gets power from the one wire and activates the 3rd ring of leds.
). Tomorrow will be one full week since Vinh received my defective light…