Are there any switches like that, but one that use mosfet, not direct current?
Problem is resistance of such switch and cable - i tried to mod it with much thicker cables, but still, resistance is around 0.2 ohm, so that is FAR 2 much for switch.
Basically id like to have bicycle light with remote switch, but I would like to push more amps, and its impossible with remote switch like that that just use like half meter of copper wire, even if I use 2mm copper wire resistance is too big.
It’s certainly possible, but not as easy as throwing in a FET in place of a switch. You still need a voltage to “activate” the FET’s gate.
You might have a coin cell or similar in the squeezy part of the remote switch, for instance. The gate doesn’t draw that much current at all, so can likely last years.
Or similar to those driver-in-tailcap lights, use, say, a maximum 99% duty-cycle, and grab/store power for the doodad in the 1% of the time it’s switched off. But that needs built-in smarts like its own µC.
do you know if there are such solutions ?
Ages ago, I think someone was working on exactly that, but no idea if it ever came to fruition.
Ah, there ya go!
Any1 know some international products available to buy?
I quess it is more simple to get light with e-switch.
I bought a few of your boards from Oshpark, They work great! Thanks!
Some of the components listed were obsolete, found a FET that seems to work well I did some quick testing with a light that should be drawing around 10amps.
I will make a thread in the future on my parts list, still need to find a decent remote switch and a bulkhead connector or waterproof grommet for the wires to pass through the tailcap.
Link for the OP
I’ve got a design and some panels made involving a DFN5x6 N-FET and Hank’s BeCu spring. 20mm tailcap only and takes a CR1632 cell (can do double CR1616 if you want but you’ll have to kapton tape the cells). Some assembly is required including trimming down the cell holder and I’ve only got CAD for a random waterproof screw-on connector I got of AliX. Don’t have the pressure pad either but I can see about selling the rest of the parts as a kit with some documentation, or pre-assembled.
I’ve tested it to about 20A in an M21B and SFN55.2 just fine, also have an M26C wired up for a remote switch.
Thanks mate, but I dont like idea of extra battery. I think its dead end, and mosfet tailcap isnt proper way at the end… Tho thanks for reply!
You could take any light that uses an E-switch (side switch lights) and just tap into the driver or the switch wires and run them remotely. If you use a light with a silicone switch boot, you could poke a hole or two in it with a pin and feed your wires into those holes, and that would probably be water tight.
