I understand that FET is very inefficient and brightness decreases with battery voltage. But what about those old 8x7135 or even 12x7135 drivers? Those are regulated aren’t they? Meaning that they will sustain the same brightness as long as the battery can provide enough amps, right?
I believe your prediction is correct.
Because the D3AA with boost Anduril driver also have about 250lm continuous output. It is also triple LED TIR with about the same head diameter.
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Wurkkos TS10 Max runtime test at max sustained output. Assuming it starts with the advertised 2500 lm, this is a lot more than “170 lm”. Unfortunately I’m not able to measure absolute lumens.
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Curious about your method here: I just received my ts10 max in the mail (I love it!) and want to de-dome it. Did you use a specific heat setting? I don’t have a heat gun, just a torch. So far I put the flashlight head in my lathe chuck, with some leather to protect it, and turned the lathe on super slow with the torch on low holding it far enough away to not burn it, spinning slowly for even heating. Haven’t been able to break the bezel free yet… I’m hesitant to overheat it… how hot did you get it before you were able to free it? I’m wondering if I should try putting it in an oven with a precise temperature? Or maybe it’s just time to get a proper heat gun…
Edit:
I got it! I just kept the flashlight on turbo, re-activating every time it stepped down for a several minutes… that softened the glue enough to free the bezel, with the aid of some leather and pipe clamps and a couple wrenches… 
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Glad it worked out. For others: I don’t have a precise method. I just use a Wagner heat gun - like the kind for stripping paint. You can find those things at hardware stores. I try to heat the bezel evenly until it’s just past too hot to handle. I think repeated heating/cooling cycles can help break the glue.
I generally just use grippy work gloves and arm strength to unscrew. Strap wrenches would be a big help in many cases but I broke mine and haven’t bought new ones.
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I didn’t use any heat source, I just clamped it in a vice with leather and forcefully twisted it apart with a pipe pliers, also lined with leather. According to Google, blue loctite threadlocker can withstand heat up to 150-180°C. I don’t think the turbo temperature, regulated at around 45°C, will soften it significantly.
+1
My arthritic hands managed to get it loose with just brute force. Looks just fine stock though so not sure i’ll pop it’s top. Good to know I can…
I suppose it was just a matter of getting proper leverage and grip then. Although, it didnt “break” free, but rather felt gummy and slowly started moving.
Hello. Is there any new information about version with regulated driver? I see somewhere in topic was discussed about it. I need to get EDC, and this is best option for me, so question is how long will take to released new version?
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does anyone know how to turn off the battery level AUX-indicator ? which appears during 3 seconds after the light is turned off
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To disable post OFF voltage display:
3C from Off, then 7H, keep holding until second flash, then don’t click the button. That will disable it.
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So… Buck driver? Are we getting close?
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So, Wurkkos if you promise to fix my TS10 Ti Copper that NEVER worked maybe I will consider a TS10 Max. Until then count me out.
The process of hardware adjustment and software testing did take a long time, and we are still following up
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hi , yes, if the light with any problem, we do have warranty, which site you bought the one and leave a order number ,we will contact with you
Thank you.
Hey Wurkkos, what about a TD05 with SFT25R? 