This is my green ts10 single led with a green strip led. mcpcb, led 5k, tir optic and bezel from sofirn…And you can see sofirn sp10pro with mcpcb,led and bezel from ts10
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I desoldered the wires but I left the LEDs on when using a Dremmel.
I pinched one half of the MCPCB between my thumb and finger om my left hand and I moved the Dremmel across the copper a few times. I kept rotating the MCPCB about 70-100 degrees to get a consistent grind off the back. It got pretty hot to hold so I put it in a block of aluminium to cool down before rotating.
This whole process took a few hours. The edges are a but thinner compared to the middle of the MCPCB but it sits relatively flat.
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Is there a short near the head or inner tube?
I am unable to remove the tailcap or inner tube.
It’d be worth checking the threads on the head and the two tubes for any bits of metal that could be short circuiting the tubes.
I suspect what Tim is suggesting is likely correct… metal shavings in the head, shorting the driver contact ring to the body
I dont think it has anything to do with the tail, nor do I recommend trying to open it to remove the inner tube.
focus on getting the inside of the head really clean, including checking for metal between the pill and the walls of the head
plus a good cleaning of the ends of the body tubes
I would also remove the battery, and with lube on the threads, I would loosen and tighten the head to the body, repeatedly, pushing, pulling, pressing sideways, all with the goal of causing the threads to mate properly, so they stop producing any new metal shavings…
then clean out all the lube, with any suspended metal particles, wipe the threads clean w alcohol, relube, and reinstall the battery and reassemble.
This worked for my CuTi TS10, that had the symptom of putting itself into turbo… I found a LOT of metal shavings in the head threads… the lube held them from falling into the gap between the driver and head wall.
good luck! I hope you get it resolved one way or another
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I assumed it was a tailcap issue from my FW3A experience.
I did see posts about metal shavings but i don’t see any in mine.
I’ll take another look at it.
There is a very easy way to make the MCPCB thinner: sand paper.
Find a flat piece of glass and lay sand paper on it, wet the sand paper with water and and the MCPCB on it. Keep rotating it to a different orientation to get consistent thickness. I’ve done this many times to adjust the thickness to make bezels close perfectly.
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I cleaned the threads with iso and a q-tip and only found 1 tiny spec of brass.
However, after the cleaning, I tapped on the head a few times and this fell out!
It looks like the lead of an electrical component that was cut off with wire cutters!
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Omg the lack of QC is astounding LOL
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Congratulations! so, the light works properly now, right?
So far so good!
I’m bringing it to work with me tomorrow.
I’ll report back with and update.
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This is a very minor mod but I do this to all my TS10 clips to help them slip onto my pants pocket fabic a little smoother:
Be careful to not bend it too far though or the clip may not be able to snap onto the body fully.
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Strange that it was in a place where you could not see it. Yeah…QC. One would hope that they at least would turn the lights on and make sure they at least basically worked properly before boxing and shipping…
Uncharacteristically, I guess I have been lucky. I have or had 15 Ts10s now and have not had any problems… other than me trying to use cells that were too long…
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It was mostly working properly but when bumped or rotated it would turn itself on and sometimes do the Ramping up and down thing.
The scariest thing is how I learned of the issue.
I had placed it on my passenger seat, bezel facing the dashboard.
I was driving home at night on the highway at 75mph and it turned itself on and ramped all the way up.
Pressing the button didn’t turn it off, so I had to use both hands to unscrew the head.
Luckily there weren’t more cars on the road.
FYI: I’ve been using it all morning and so far no issues!
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That little hook always gets stuck! Lol. Annoying really.
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I like the clip, looks sturdy and secure, but it adds too much bulk to the TS10… for my taste anyway.
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That’s probably the stuck-button code. When the button is held too long, it assumes the button is stuck or broken, so it ramps down and then goes to lockout mode.
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