Hi,
I was changing the battery in one of my TS10 lights yesterday and now have a problem
When changing the cell while screwing the head in I got a few sort of random flashes. Now the light is stuck in a mode that seems like the reset to defaults mode. I click the switch and just get a low level. It will not remain on. If I hold the switch, it flashes and eventually goes to a high level. Acting like it is resetting, but it doesn’t really. If I keep holding it, it just cycles through the flashing to high, then starts over. It is in a loop.
I have tried the 13H for a reset. No effect.
I have tried holding the switch (after fully removing the head) then connecting the head. No effect.
Can anyone give me some suggestions on how to get the thing to reset so I can at least use it?
Any Help will be greatly appreciated. I do like the light. It is the one I have been using daily.
If its running Anduril, another way to reset the light is to hold the switch down while tightening the tailcap. Once the tailcap is tightened, keep holding the power switch until you see the emitters flash (they will get brighter) and then give off one final bright flash. Once it does that last flash, you can release the switch. Maybe its stuck in a mode where the 13H for reset isn’t working.
THX. But I think I have tried that… but the TS10 (stock) only allows the cell to be changed by unscrewing the head… but I have tried holding the switch while installing the head… and 13H.
So yes, it IS stuck. The question is, how to UNstick it…
I took the H10 right off the charger… which claimed it was at 4.2 volts…fully charged.
I can try a different cell. But I think the one I have been using is good… and topped off.
Holding the button while tightening the head won’t reset because of the construction of the light. Only 13H works for a reset.
What actually happens when you do 13H? Does it start flickering, brighter and brighter and finally turns off? If not, something is really messed up.
The intermittent contact you described might actually corrupt the EEPROM, but it es very unlikely. Once it is corrupted, the configuration might contain invalid values, like a floor level higher then ceiling or level higher than 150. In such cases the code will read code sections as ramping table data and some comparisons might lead to invalid code paths. But 13H should usually work because it triggers a reboot of the microcontroller and then immediately executes a reset without reading EEPROM first.
Well, the light will flash, then come on bright. If I let go of the switch, then press it again, it goes through the process again. Flashing, then bright. If I press and hold the switch (after 13H or now anytime), it will continue to cycle thorough the flashings, then bright, over and over again.
It seems like it might have corrupted the EEPROM.
Will re-flashing the firmware fix that… or is this thing just toast?
Yeah , me too. It just seems to be stuck in the reset loop… but it never really does the reset.
Button presses don’t change anything. Like lock (4 presses) Change aux (7 presses), advanced mode (10H)…
Only holding down the button makes it go through what normally would be the reset cycle.
Well, I think I fixed it… at least the button is responding now. What did I do? Good question. I did a few things, not sure what fixed it.
1 I took some small needle nose pliers and shorted the center post in the driver to the ring and held it for a while. I then shorted across all of the programming pads. The idea was to drain any residual charge anywhere.
2 I cleaned the contact points in the head including the ring and center contact with a pencil eraser and alcohol.
3 I cleaned the threads (tube and inside the head) and edge of the inner signal tube with the eraser and alcohol.
Put it back together and it is now working, at least it is changing levels and allowed me to turn off AUX leds and get it into advanced mode,. I think it may have been the cleaning… but who knows.
Now to go back and get Andruil 2 back to the way I want it…
I am pretty careful with lube and use what I think is the minimum required for a given application.
I also try my best to keep any lube away from the electrical contact areas. I wipe them off after applying lube…
The light has worked fine since I got it, and was working properly until I decided to top off the cell.
What I am curious about, maybe some of the experts on the electronics can comment, is what the mechanism for this kind of failure could be. I am just curious, and maybe it would help me and others avoid the issue going forward.
Thing is, the switch was working, the electronics and LEDs were getting power (it was pretty bright after going through the flashes during the reset process), but for some reason the controller seemed to be stuck in a loop? I did clean it previously, though maybe not quite as well as the last time. The only real difference on the last time was shorting those contacts ??
Happened the loop without releasing the button, so keeping it pressed resulting in one reset after the other? Or did you have to release the button in between?
It was peculiar. Sometimes holding the button would result in continuous reset cycles. As long as I held the button, it would cycle. Occasionally it would go through the cycle twice, and stop at the solid bright stage (stay on bright as long as I held the button). Most of the time it would just cycle as long as I held the button. Though I don’t think I ever let it do that more than 3 times.
It would stop wherever it was in the cycle when I released the button. Then start again from the beginning when I pushed it again.
Apparently anduril has some quirks that causes the flashlight to go wiggy at times. I just received a few lights from a member who swears there was nothing wrong with them. Two were fine, one had the same issues as above. I couldn’t reset it so on a whim, I switched bodies. It was still acting up but I was then able to reset it. I switched bodies back and it worked fine ever since. My troubleshooting included using two different wurkkos batteries, one fully charged, the other, 4.09v.
Moving on to the next light, I used the fully charged battery and the light came on with the red aux LEDs. I went to change it to green and the 7 clicks wouldn’t work. WTH? Tried it again. The 7 click/hold the light would have no light on until I let the switch go. Then it would come on red aux again skipping over the battery check light.
I switched to the 4.09v battery tried it again. It worked. I did a reset. It worked. I changed the aux to green it worked. I put the original battery back in. It worked. Changed to green aux again. It worked. Reset the light. It worked. Thoughts?
The TS10 needs to be closed firmly so the inner body tube and the outer body tube make good contact. Cleaning the ends of those tubes so they dont have excess lube blocking contact, can be helpful.
It can also help to remove the battery, and tighten and loosen the head from the body tube slightly, and re tighten firmly, a few times.
So the ends of the two body tubes seat well against the driver inside the head.
