【TS10V2 Al available】Wurkkos "slender waist" TS10v2 aluminum version available with black,green,orange

[jon_slider]

@bitew

I need to get used to the clicking

glad you got it working…

fwiw, for programming that requires large numbers of clics, I clic w my index finger, not my thumb… ymmv

I also use a pattern… 123, 123, 1C would be 7C
123,123,123, 1H; would be 10H

If I need more than 10 clics, I use a different pattern
12345, 12345, 12345, 12345 =20C

And fwiw, there is a shortcut for 10C, which is 1H
so if I need 40C, I do 1H, 1H, 1H, 1H

hope that helps add to your confusion… (kidding)

You can do this!

[xbb]

@jon_slider

@bitew

I need to get used to the clicking

I also use a pattern… 123, 123, 1C would be 7C
123,123,123, 1H; would be 10H
etc

That’s actually clever and super helful thanks

[thefreeman]

@Adair21

@thefreeman

Was it cleaned around the LEDs or soaked into IPA ?

I cleaned as much of the mcpcb as possible with some precision q-tips, let the light air dry and then ran the light on high for a few minutes to make sure all the IPA was fully evaporated.

I didn’t want to remove the mcpcb for an IPA bath so I couldn’t be blamed for causing the issue

I just checked and mine (4000K) smokes as well, with a 4V H10, it’s nearly instantaneous and it doesn’t smell like flux, more like burnt electronics.

[Tendou]

What is the code for discount for MAO in Ali and wurkkos site?

And which colour of AUX more visible at the same current?

Or does the current draw for each perceived brightness not much different?

[jon_slider]

@Tendou

which colour of AUX more visible

Green is brightest, then Blue, then Orange, then Red
.

on Low, red is not visible during the day, blue IS
otoh, Blue is “too” bright for my nightstand use, Red and Orange are less glaring in the middle of the dark night.

warning, do NOT use High Bright Aux 24/7, it will use up the battery in less than a week.

[Tendou]

@jon_slider

@Tendou

which colour of AUX more visible

Green is brightest, then Blue, then Orange, then Red
.

on Low, red is not visible during the day, blue IS
otoh, Blue is “too” bright for my nightstand use, Red and Orange are less glaring in the middle of the dark night.

warning, do NOT use High Bright Aux 24/7, it will use up the battery in less than a week.

So green will also be brighter than blue for nightstand use?
Is orange visible in the day on low? Much different with orange and red?

[Lightbringer]

Just got mines today, Amazon, black with orange aux. Noice!

Love the tint, a sort of peachy color. 7C works to change the aux (dim/bright/off/epilepsy), so not sure what version of Andy it is.

Only grex is the switch which has an eerie feel if you press very lightly without clicking, a sort of scratchy-springy-rubbery sensation, if that makes any sense. A little too much play in the cap, it seems, but hoping it might work itself out.

Literally just got it, testing the cell now, so this is after only 2min of playing with it, not anything in detail.

[Lightbringer]

@jon_slider

Blue is “too” bright for my nightstand use…

That’s why I call my Cometa “the Big Blue Lighthouse”.

[jon_slider]

@Tendou

So green will also be brighter than blue for nightstand use?
Is orange visible in the day on low? Much different with orange and red?

both blue and green are bright low, can be seen in daylight

both red and orange are dim low, can Not (easily) be seen in daylight

example side by side:

@weklund

@Lightbringer

not sure what version of Andy it is.

you can determine if the firmware is early, if you see the Aux are ON when main LEDs are ON

.

or if you have a light meter, low is 0.1 in early firmware, 0.01 in later firmware

or
version check it, it gives a date, feb is orig, 7/19 is update…

[Adair21]

@Adair21

All my testing was with the 5700k model

Wow, I’m so sorry guys. I just double checked and all my testing was performed on the 4000k models.

So this may not be an issue on the 5800k model at all which explains some of the conflicting results that people had.

[MascaratumB]

I did it
Finally

Just ordered a Black version with 5800K and orange aux leds ! It was a tough decision to let go the MAO version, but I am sure I won’t regret!!

Thanks Wurkkos and also thanks to all that have shared their thoughts here about the Aux, about the main LEDs and many other things on this light!

[Lightweightled]

Wow, I’m so sorry guys. I just double checked and all my testing was performed on the 4000k models.

So this may not be an issue on the 5800k model at all which explains some of the conflicting results that people had.

I ordered two 4000K, and was wondering how i can do the thermal calibration on the lights when they arrive. is there a guide i can reference, and do i need a flashing kit?

[tactical_grizzly]

@Lightweightled

Wow, I’m so sorry guys. I just double checked and all my testing was performed on the 4000k models.

So this may not be an issue on the 5800k model at all which explains some of the conflicting results that people had.

I ordered two 4000K, and was wondering how i can do the thermal calibration on the lights when they arrive. is there a guide i can reference, and do i need a flashing kit?

The ATTiny1616 chip used in this light comes pre-calibrated so you shouldn’t need to calibrate it AFAIK. You can check when you receive it by letting it acclimate to a known temperature (room temperature) and then doing a temp check to verify it’s correct.

[jon_slider]

[quote=Lightweightled]

is there a guide i can reference, and do i need a flashing kit?

yes, but you do not need to change the factory default thermal settings

in any case, here is the manual:
https://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/trunk/view/head:/ToyKeeper/spaghetti-monster/anduril/anduril-manual.txt

no flashing needed

enjoy your new lights!

I strongly recommend you NOT use Turbo. Just forget it exists, even turn it off… the manual tells how…

[GilliGainz]

@Adair21

@Adair21

All my testing was with the 5700k model

Wow, I’m so sorry guys. I just double checked and all my testing was performed on the 4000k models.

So this may not be an issue on the 5800k model at all which explains some of the conflicting results that people had.

I just checked my 5800k and it smoked straight away

[jon_slider]

@Lightbringer

the switch which has an eerie feel if you press very lightly without clicking, a sort of scratchy-springy-rubbery sensation, if that makes any sense. A little too much play in the cap, it seems, but hoping it might work itself out.

the switch is a very simple affair… maybe take the battery out and cycle the switch a few times… theres not much to go wrong… here is what it looks like:

I just Ordered a TS10 White MAO 5800K blue Aux…
the Forcc is Strong In This One

[Lightbringer]

@jon_slider

you can determine if the firmware is early, if you see the Aux are ON when main LEDs are ON

Aux off when mains on.

Wasn’t sure if that test was andy1 vs andy2, or with-bug vs bug-fixed.

[Lightbringer]

@jon_slider

the switch is a very simple affair… maybe take the battery out and cycle the switch a few times… theres not much to go wrong… here is what it looks like:

What’s funny is that every time I untwist, the head comes off vs the tail. Thought the body may’ve been a 1-piece like the old Boney. Seems it’s just extra tight vs the head. :laughing:

Some lights had that glitch, ie, too much play in the rubber cap, so people were undoing the switch and sticking small wads of cardboard or tissue in there under the nubbin to take up the slack. Didn’t want to bust the light so soon after getting it, though, so…

[varbos]

@jon_slider

both blue and green are bright low, can be seen in daylight

both red and orange are dim low, can Not (easily) be seen in daylight

Will there be noticeable difference in power consumption between blue/green versus red/orange ?

ie is blue/green bright because there is more current drawn by these emitters, or is it bright because these colors are more efficient ?

[G0OSE]

@Lightbringer

@jon_slider

the switch is a very simple affair… maybe take the battery out and cycle the switch a few times… theres not much to go wrong… here is what it looks like:

What’s funny is that every time I untwist, the head comes off vs the tail. Thought the body may’ve been a 1-piece like the old Boney. Seems it’s just extra tight vs the head. :laughing:

Some lights had that glitch, ie, too much play in the rubber cap, so people were undoing the switch and sticking small wads of cardboard or tissue in there under the nubbin to take up the slack. Didn’t want to bust the light so soon after getting it, though, so…

I’m fairly sure the tail is glued mate, in fact it actually says it is now I look -
‘Note: tail cap is glued，for better contact of the electronic tail press, please do not twist and disassemble the tail cap’