It’s finally here !
It was missing for 8 days !
sorry to hear that.
1. I would remove the battery, clean the ends of the body tubes to be sure there is no oil on them, and screw the light together, firmly, then loosen, and tighten a few times.
the goal is to insure good contact from body tube to inside of head. (although since your aux are on, that is probably not the problem, this is a 3 step trouble shooting)
2. I would then clic the tailcap repeatedly, 10-20 times…
the goal is to ensure the switch makes proper contact
3. then reinstall the Wurkkos 14500 battery and try to do a factory reset, like this:
Hold the button down while screwing the head tight. If it works properly, you will see the light turn on, flickering, keep holding the button until there is a bright flash. That is the factory reset. The light should work normally after that.
let us know if the problem is solved
However, if your button is still dead, and you cannot do the factory reset, seek help from Wurkkos.
all mine work great! Hopefully soon, yours will too.:
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My ts10’s just arrived. one black and one MAO - both shipped with the latest firmware.
I am really happy with the MAO - It looks and feels much better than the black one, and i can live with some scratches after use. Even though it isn’t as scratch resistant, imo it is still the superior product (and i don’t think i will change my mind after some wear - but i’ll be sure to let y’all know).
@Wurkkos, if you ever find a way to tune the micro arc oxidation process to be more scratch-resistant (as they are with other manufacturers), then this is certainly something to come back for.
Mao is a great finish, even in its current state with the ts10.
Overall the light is tiny, has great output and runtimes, has anduril (first anduril light i own and I dig it). I have one nitpick: it would be great if the button was stabilized so that pressing on the edge of the button will also work. Small nitpick, because most of our thumbs are big enough to cover the entire button so this will not be a problem.
Overall 9/10 flashlight. Well done Wurkkos.
I had the same issue as yours.Try tighten the head, I mean very tight & see if it works!
I had one that was flaky. I basically did what jon_slider wrote above. But I added a Step 1A… clean the outer copper trace on the driver inside of the head.
Actually I cleaned both the threads on the body tube and inside the heads as well. I removed all of the factory lube. I did the reset, and the light started working.
I then went back and used a small amount of silicon lube (or your lube of choice) to the O ring and body tube threads.
All is good now.
Do let us know whether anything works to get it going.
Good luck!
What color AUX looks best in a brass version?
Red, please!
Red (660nm deep red) please!
This color not only helps preserve night vision, it also has been shown to improve eye health.
Red / orange / amber
Green!
Ice Blue & Red Thanks Wurkkos Team
Any news on copper?
I would love 660nm deep red if possible as a primary emitter someday.
Green auxiliaries would look best with brass! It would look like emeralds and gold 
Red or orange. any plans for a copper one?
if the LEDs are 3000k, I think Red Aux.
If you decide to also make a 5800K, I would suggest Green Aux for that.
Because Cool LEDs are more useful during the day, and Green Aux will be visible. Red is not visible during the day.
In all cases Im only talking about Low mode Aux
Indeed, that might look very nice. My vote: either red or green.
Jack brass/antique brass looks good with red aux
Hank brass looks good with amber aux
So I would go with these two.
as for green, I haven't seen brass flashlight with it, so I can't tell if it's good.
Ps. is the brass version button standard material, or are you doing brass for the button to?
Pps. I got my TS10 MAO red aux (they did change it on my request, there's no annul button on the site, at least I didn't found one)
Wurkkos 14500 900mAh battery, tested 883mAh on 0.5A load.
The coating have some little scuff marks on the slim tube part, but are not visible if you don't look for them. Coating looks good, it feels more durable than hank color coting, but it's not HAIII
The tail is glued
The beam is tighter than the FWAA 219C 4000K, and more green. The 219C looks pink in comparison to the CSP 2323 4000K, so it's bad.
It comes with the updated firmware
The only problem I encounter is the button. It's a little heavy to press (but that's tolerable), but you have to press it almost dead center.
The FWAA you can press anywhere and it will work, so that's something to have in mind.
TS10 button is a bit ‘squishy’ to me. But I much prefer this to other tail e-switches I have tried (Lumintop, etc) which were too sensitive or had other issues. It’s still not perfect but for someone like me who doesn’t like to lockout (I just don’t like it) it’s better than it being too sensitive.
So set the flashlight options, save the firmware and copy to the other one.
It’s not that hard to set all settings via the UI. If you really want to copy everything, read flash and EEPROM and write both the other flashlight.
yes
I use this command line to make a backup:
pymcuprog read -m all -f ~/Desktop/TS10backup.hex -t uart -u /dev/tty.wchusbserial1420 -d attiny1616
and this command line to erase the firmware on a new light, before installing new firmware:
pymcuprog erase -m flash -t uart -u /dev/tty.wchusbserial1420 -d attiny1616
and this command line to reflash new firmware:
pymcuprog write -f ~/Desktop/TS10backup.hex -t uart -u /dev/tty.wchusbserial1420 -d attiny1616