Wife applied a layer of clear coat to my MAO. All we had around the house was gloss. Hard to tell from my crappy picture, but it did add some sheen, and definitely changed the texture. Took about 72 hours to fully cure. May have darkened a wee bit as well. Feels like it may stave off some light scuffing, but doubt it would be any more impervious to rough handling. Nothing ventured, nothing gained….
I can only speak to my interests, so I don’t know if green aux is more popular now overall.
I have 2 TS10s (1 with orange aux, 1 with blue aux), and I was hoping to get at least 1 silver- or green-body light in 4000K with green aux. I have not had a need yet to use the aux in high.
Red aux (low) is too faint for me at night, which is why I prefer the brighter orange aux in darkness, with the light at bedside.
Blue aux (low) is too bright at night, but I like it during the day since the blue is nice and calming to look at throughout the day.
Due to my primary use of blue aux, I was hoping for a light with green aux since its brightness is close to blue.
I think the only way to solve the aux color problem and to reduce your SKU is to add RGB aux LEDs. I’ve got a solution for a prototype, but don’t know if it scales up for high production quantity (flex PCB with mounted resistors and LEDs with a thin strip that is pushed through the hole, soldered to the PCB and then folded).
I would have one of these Anduril AA light with single LED and constant current driver.
As happen on SP10PRO Driver work with pwm
Yes, quite high frequency but still is
I was not talking about single LED AA, I was talking about the Aux light for TS10.
fwiw, Constant Current can have PreFlash when using sublumen outputs… read this thread:
I would not want that driver.
If you want Anduril on AA, the SP10 Pro is the Only light that offers it, and it has great sublumen levels, and SP10 Pro does Not have PreFlash, like that Constant Current driver does.
Even increase room driver I think will be always shorter than sp10pro which has an elongated driver plus the reflector.
If dual fuel battery isn’t possible, an AA version only and single Led with Tir would be fine as I don’t use much 14500 cells
Brass material has a decent satin finish and screw threads are very smooth. Switch cover is brass too!
Weight is reasonable, similar to copper FWAA. Height is 2 mm shorter than FWAA.
Switch has excellent tactile feel. It does not protrude much and tailcap rim is above it, so I expect accidental activations to be seldom. Firmness to click, yet stays fairly silent.
LED centering to TIR looks good. Beam is nice and smooth. Optic appears to be slightly larger than FWAA triple.
Orange aux LEDs look great, though one looks to be off position a bit (relative to the other 2)
One gripe upfront is that the HI mode of the aux-LEDs is a bit too bright. It’s not really intended to be used in place of moonlight mode. Ideally, would be great if Anduril had a 4th option for aux LEDs. low, medium, high, flash. The other issue is that I can’t unscrew the tailcap. It’s like it’s cemented in place. Tried unscrewing with two straps of rubber that I use to dislodge stuck parts and it won’t come off.
You can’t physically lockout from the head, apparently. I tried it… doesn’t work. I searched through the thread and I see this has already been addressed. The thing is, I can do it on my FWAA: Same tube circuit design. I loosen the head a little and the switch simply does not activate the LEDs. I’ve heard that the circuit is still there, but that the switch just can’t activate the LEDs. So there is still some parasitic drain, but it’s nominal. I wish this was possible on the TS10…
Question: Does this brass TS10 have the latest firmware update, like LVP for aux LEDs? I have noticed that the aux LED low is very low — just a little brighter than tritium, and invisible in daylight (you have to cup your hands over it to see). Also, when the mains are on, the aux LEDs do go out. So I’m assuming it’s the latest, as of Oct 2022.