> Does this brass TS10 have the latest firmware update
yes,
since the aux are off when main LEDs are On,
the light has the new firmware
note in this photo that the aux are On when main LEDs are On… this is not the new firmware: .
photos thanks to posts by zumlin on reddit
here is the new firmware, aux Off, main LEDs On:
> Orange aux LEDs look great, though one looks to be off position a bit (relative to the other 2)
true
the aux lights are not at the same distance from the optic’s leg holes… so they dont shine thru the optic in the same way
> I can’t unscrew the tailcap.
true
Wurkkos TS10 sales page:
“Note: tail cap is glued for better contact of the electronic tail press, please do not twist and disassemble the tail cap ”
> physically lockout
The TS10 is wired to turn off the Aux if head unscrewed
The FWAA is wired to turn off the main LEDs
the TS10 switch requires double the pressure of the FWAA
I dont lock out my TS10, and have had no AD. I do disable Turbo, out of an abundace of caution. Turning Off Turbo, is a newer Anduril 2 option in the TS10, that the older Anduril 2 version in the FWAA does not have.
It’s been a while since posting. Trying to add the Amazon link, if you like the glow.
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The signal on this one is kind of backwards from the FWxx and Hank’s version of same. I think it was thefreeman who shared it way back in this thread but the switch signal is carried by the host, not the inner tube. Since both threads are bare/not anodized, unscrewing either end won’t give a mechanical lockout. I think the drain would be so low as not to be a risk if you did this and had the light crammed in a pack with the button being pressed, but yes there will be some level of parasitic drain there even with the aux lights turned off. Better than a smoldering pocket/pack, though. With the firmware update and the warmer emitters this little light has a lot going for it. If I had one big change it would be to reposition the aux emitters if possible so that they were more usable (each of mine are pretty close to the “cones” for the main emitters with one of the three being tucked further under that zone such that on high only two are effective and it’s a weird streaky almost-y-shaped beam…would be nice if they could be more effective as a colored moon level, so to speak. And/or adjusting the output of both high and low levels to something more appropriate. Had some hiccups but in just a few months they went from drawing board to a great little light that they are selling oodles of.
I’m really liking the brass version I recently received. The new lower moonlight level is great and I’m glad the LVP has been fixed.
I’m generally pretty obsessed with avoiding green tints and these LEDs in 4000k don’t bother me; however, I do think they benefit from a minus green filter.
Sorry, not the best picture. The minus green clearly makes a difference in-person. These are both the 4000k version. On the left is the new brass light as it arrived. On the right is my older red version with a minus green filter. I think the differences in body color are contributing to the tint shift differences around the perimeter.
Thanks, Jon. I appreciate your informative reply, and for clearing up my questions. Yeah, for me it’s the paradigm shift from the FW3A series. While the FWAA is a bit prone to accidental activation, the smooth button action is easy to click out 4 times for electronic lock. And when I’m not using the light I do a manual lockout (just principle to cut the circuit). But I see this isn’t necessary to do while carrying the TS10, since the button is less prone to activation by accident. I like the aux-LEDs on low—very nice visibility at night. I don’t need them during the day and 7 clicks several times to hit the “off” menu is a PITA. So I’ve turned them off by default but have them active on low in electronic lockout. But if I’m not interested in the aux-LEDs being on, it’s nice that they can be controlled by a simple physical lockout (just slight turn of head).
I think I’m also going to disable turbo. I don’t find myself using it much and a lower ceiling seems to do the job just fine for most purposes.
fwiw, I also encourage you to also change the thermal limit to 50C… it helps sustain the 120/150 ceiling output
note the version of Anduril on the TS10 lets you do 10C by using 1H, so to get to a 50C limit, you can do 1H, 1H, instead of 20C (thermal floor is 30Celcius, so it takes 20Clics to set 50Celcius)
Thanks, Correllux. Yeah, I’d missed that post (there’s so many!). Intriguing to learn about the different approach from the FWAA to the TS10. I agree, the aux emitters should be repositioned and in mine, one is notably askew compared to the other 2. But, it’s minor. I’m not staring at the front — the glow of the aux emitters is a generalized thing. I do agree, this is a great light. And comparatively, a bargain compared to the FWAA. After seeing what Lumintop did to the FW3A (unwanted hardware changes), I wasn’t all that hopeful but Wurkkos has really stepped up. I’m glad I took a chance. The TS10 is also my first full-brass flashlight because Wurkkos gave us a really decent price for it.
Great! So if I got this right, 3C from off to get to battery check. Then 2C for temperature menu. From there 7H to get to thermal config. Let menu 1 lapse (just sets temp C). Menu 2, do a 1H then 1H again to get 20C?
Ah, got it. I’d gotten confused because in Anduril 1, when you’ve got multiple options in a menu is sequentially scrolls through them and you have 2 seconds to select your option in each (if you don’t select, it just steps to the next option until done). I do see in Anduril 2 that you just keep holding until the focus is on the menu item you want to set. :+1:
OK, I don’t know what I’m doing wrong, but when I go to the Advanced Config menu (10H) and scroll to item 3 for controlling ramping from moonlight (auto or off), I can’t get it to turn off. I tried: a) nothing, b) 1C, c) 1H (2 secs), d) 2C, e) 1C, 1H… nothing works. It still auto-ramps if I hold after moonlight turns on.
I was fiddling with this last night. Helps to have the light on very low so the flashes are more distinct. Took me a good 15-20minutes to get 2x TS10 sorted - 10minute hybrid memory & auto-ramp moonlight.
The minus green filter certainly is noticeable and appears to produce a very nice tint. The only reason why I haven’t gotten a TS10 yet is due to the non-negative DUV tint, which clearly makes me a tint snob since it’s such an incredible flashlight for the money. :person_facepalming:
.
Turning Off Turbo, is a newer Anduril 2 option in the TS10, that the older Anduril 2 version in the FWAA does not have.
