my TS10 do not do that,
I can consistently disable momentary by just loosening the head half a turn for a moment…
when I retighten the head, momentary does not persist
I received mine yesterday and noticed the gap too. I attempted to scale my photo to match the size of the one posted by TimMC, and I believe the size of my gap is more or less similar.
I tried to measure the gap using some mechanical pencil leads. A 0.5mm pencil lead will not fit in the gap, but a 0.3mm lead does. So, I estimate the gap to be around 0.4mm, as jon_slider suggested.
Despite the minor gap, I really like how the Cu-Ti TS10 turned out. It is nicely polished, and the buttons feel great. The tint is also very nice. I got the 6000k version, and the DUV measured from my LightMaster 4 is ranging between -0.0010 and 0.0030, depending on output levels (higher output usually leads to lower DUV measurements).
By the way, there is one other issue. Small copper threads like shavings form when you screw the head on and off. I think the little machining marks on the Ti are scratching some parts of the Cu head. Despite the formation of small shavings of copper, the threads feel very smooth. So, it may not be a big issue, but it could cause problems if they build up over time.
2 Thanks
I’d be more concerned about the current state that the TIR optic doesn’t push onto the MCPCB hard enough. If the feet bottom out, then shortening the thin part of the legs is exactly what has to be done. But maybe even the thick part of the legs is too long, then only the fragile legs would push down on the MCPCB, which would also explain why they sometimes like to twist and break off.
1 Thank
Apologies. I shouldn’t have said “bottom out”.
I checked the depth of each hole in the MCPCB using a pin and I compared it with the feet of the TIR optic. The pin had white thermal paste on it to help figure out the depth. Each foot is about 0.1 to 0.2mm shorter than the depth of the hole so they appear to be pushing the MCPCB down.
The TIR optic popped up and almost started unscrewing with the bezel. I stopped as soon as I noticed so that I could avoid damaging the emitters and aux LEDs.
1 Thank
Mine on momentary also operates the aux leds on high sometimes. Do i have a haunted one?
suggest you both read up on how I had to clean the copper head and manipulate it to clearance the threads
2 Thanks
Did that shortly after getting it thanks. This is a random thing after pulling it out of my pocket the aux will be on high in voltage mode, then after a quick on momentary and off it will take a second or two and the aux will come back on. The only to clear it is to take it apart and ground everything.
c
Oops, looks like that issue snuck in a few months ago and nobody noticed until now. Momentary mode doesn’t get a lot of use.
Anyway, fixed in the latest commit.
2 Thanks
Thanks TK for all you have done. You light up my life currently, my fav lights run what you made. Momentary mode is fitting for this light if carried in a pocket. 
I guess I will have to live with this since I don’t flash.
Chris
Yeah, the closest gauge that fit well was 4mm when I checked. BTW, I have the original Ti, the TiCu, and blue anodized Ti TS10s. The gap is essentially the same on all of them. Again, though I would prefer no gap, the way they are doesn’t bother me. It does not interfere with function and I doubt it impacts water resistance. But it is another area of concern for collecting dirt… 
It is curious that they all are basically machined the same and QC didn’t catch it early in the production run. Perhaps they just do not consider it to be a significant problem.
sorry to hear that
does disabling post off Voltage display (from off, 3C, then 7H, release on second blink) solve the problem?
Well it helped my problem… 
Thanks for posting this. I was just getting ready to look it up. I don’t need nor want the post off battery check.
1 Thank
If you turn off the post-off voltage display as jon_slider described, the aux LEDs should stop lighting up in momentary mode.
They lit up only because momentary mode called the wrong aux LED function. It called the one with fancy modes when it was actually just trying to ensure the aux LEDs are off. Although it was a bug, it still worked until the post-off voltage thing was added.
Anyway, it’s fixed upstream and there’s a workaround which doesn’t require new firmware.
1 Thank
If all v2’s have the same size gaps, then it may have something to do with the new MCPCB? Thickness of the the MCPCB may have changed and machined parts could be left unadjusted.
I measured both my V1 and V2 mcpcb’s thickness and both measure within .03mm according to my digital calipers. I actually swapped a V1 mcpcb with E21A emitters in my Ti TS10 and there’s still a gap.
thank you for confirming the mcpcb are equal thickness
I wonder if there is variation in the Tir legs
or if there is variation in the shelf depths
thoughts?
sorry for the misfit Tir aggravation,
Ive seen a couple photos of damaged emitters, from spun Tir, glad you avoided that
Im having a hard time figuring out why the Tir in your light sits so proud…
your 0.8mm bezel gap is considerably more than on mine and others…
could it be that your light has
- a thicker layer of thermal paste than others
- the shelf is shallower
- the optic is a freak w extra long legs
regardless of the cause,
one idea to lower the optic, might be to countersink the leg holes on the mcpcb,
if you had access to a tool that could cut precisely to the correct depth, whithout having to remove the mcpcb… that could be a perfect world…
I ordered a pair of V1 mcpcb and optics a while back. I’ll try using one of those and see if that makes a difference.
It seems strange that the shelf depth would be different from V1 to V2. I assume the CNC program would be the same except the feeds and speeds and the tooling used to turn them.
It’s probably closer to 0.4mm. I need to measure it properly.
I received my two new TS10s. A TiCu in 4000k and a Ti Blue in 6000k.
I have several TS10s and the LEDs in the two new ones are different. They are higher CCT, lower duv, and seem to overdrive easier near the top.
With the top of ramp set to 130, previous TS10s in 4000k measure 4000-4200k and -0.0010 to 0.0010 duv on Opple 3. This new TiCu TS10 measures 4600k and -0.0060 duv at the same settings. All the 219b 45k lovers out there would love this one! On turbo the new one acts overdriven… CCT jumps way up and dims. I now have turbo turned off.
The new Ti Blue in 6000k acts much the same. CCT is higher than all previous TS10s at 6700k and duv is very negative at about -0.0050. It also doesn’t like turbo.
Strange. The Ti received earlier looks and acts much like the early aluminum ones I have.
FB
1 Thank
i dont know your Ts’s but I measured the length of the internal tube of the stonewashed and it is shorter than the new ones (cutits and blue), in fact mine (cutits and blue) had a little too much space between the head/tube and the head/tail…maybe the cnc is not the same?