i think no more green aux recently, seems now green aux more popular?
Thank you for the quick reply and inquiry!
I can only speak to my interests, so I don’t know if green aux is more popular now overall.
I have 2 TS10s (1 with orange aux, 1 with blue aux), and I was hoping to get at least 1 silver- or green-body light in 4000K with green aux. I have not had a need yet to use the aux in high.
Red aux (low) is too faint for me at night, which is why I prefer the brighter orange aux in darkness, with the light at bedside.
Blue aux (low) is too bright at night, but I like it during the day since the blue is nice and calming to look at throughout the day.
Due to my primary use of blue aux, I was hoping for a light with green aux since its brightness is close to blue.
I think the only way to solve the aux color problem and to reduce your SKU is to add RGB aux LEDs. I’ve got a solution for a prototype, but don’t know if it scales up for high production quantity (flex PCB with mounted resistors and LEDs with a thin strip that is pushed through the hole, soldered to the PCB and then folded).
My favorite Aux is Red.
My second favorite is Green.
good idea
a single RGB Aux mounted in the middle might provide a slightly more useful beam
I would have one of these Anduril AA light with single LED and constant current driver.
As happen on SP10PRO Driver work with pwm
Yes, quite high frequency but still is
I was not talking about single LED AA, I was talking about the Aux light for TS10.
fwiw, Constant Current can have PreFlash when using sublumen outputs… read this thread:
I would not want that driver.
If you want Anduril on AA, the SP10 Pro is the Only light that offers it, and it has great sublumen levels, and SP10 Pro does Not have PreFlash, like that Constant Current driver does.
I saying if in these Anduril drivers an analog low pass filter could be implemented to eliminate PWM.
Yes, there are users with more knowledge in electronics who know better than me what to do.
This light would be even nice with AA compatibily and single Led, will be shorter than Sp10pro
Even increase room driver I think will be always shorter than sp10pro which has an elongated driver plus the reflector.
If dual fuel battery isn’t possible, an AA version only and single Led with Tir would be fine as I don’t use much 14500 cells
Just got my TS10 in brass, 4000k. VERY nice!
What I like:
- Brass material has a decent satin finish and screw threads are very smooth. Switch cover is brass too!
- Weight is reasonable, similar to copper FWAA. Height is 2 mm shorter than FWAA.
- Switch has excellent tactile feel. It does not protrude much and tailcap rim is above it, so I expect accidental activations to be seldom. Firmness to click, yet stays fairly silent.
- LED centering to TIR looks good. Beam is nice and smooth. Optic appears to be slightly larger than FWAA triple.
- Orange aux LEDs look great, though one looks to be off position a bit (relative to the other 2)
One gripe upfront is that the HI mode of the aux-LEDs is a bit too bright. It’s not really intended to be used in place of moonlight mode. Ideally, would be great if Anduril had a 4th option for aux LEDs. low, medium, high, flash. The other issue is that I can’t unscrew the tailcap. It’s like it’s cemented in place. Tried unscrewing with two straps of rubber that I use to dislodge stuck parts and it won’t come off.
You can’t physically lockout from the head, apparently. I tried it… doesn’t work. I searched through the thread and I see this has already been addressed. The thing is, I can do it on my FWAA: Same tube circuit design. I loosen the head a little and the switch simply does not activate the LEDs. I’ve heard that the circuit is still there, but that the switch just can’t activate the LEDs. So there is still some parasitic drain, but it’s nominal. I wish this was possible on the TS10…
Question: Does this brass TS10 have the latest firmware update, like LVP for aux LEDs? I have noticed that the aux LED low is very low — just a little brighter than tritium, and invisible in daylight (you have to cup your hands over it to see). Also, when the mains are on, the aux LEDs do go out. So I’m assuming it’s the latest, as of Oct 2022.
congrats 
> Does this brass TS10 have the latest firmware update
yes,
since the aux are off when main LEDs are On,
the light has the new firmware
note in this photo that the aux are On when main LEDs are On… this is not the new firmware:
.
photos thanks to posts by zumlin on reddit
here is the new firmware, aux Off, main LEDs On:
> Orange aux LEDs look great, though one looks to be off position a bit (relative to the other 2)
true
the aux lights are not at the same distance from the optic’s leg holes… so they dont shine thru the optic in the same way
> I can’t unscrew the tailcap.
true
Wurkkos TS10 sales page:
“Note: tail cap is glued for better contact of the electronic tail press, please do not twist and disassemble the tail cap ”
> physically lockout
The TS10 is wired to turn off the Aux if head unscrewed
The FWAA is wired to turn off the main LEDs
the TS10 switch requires double the pressure of the FWAA
I dont lock out my TS10, and have had no AD. I do disable Turbo, out of an abundace of caution. 
Turning Off Turbo, is a newer Anduril 2 option in the TS10, that the older Anduril 2 version in the FWAA does not have.
It’s been a while since posting. Trying to add the Amazon link, if you like the glow.
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The signal on this one is kind of backwards from the FWxx and Hank’s version of same. I think it was thefreeman who shared it way back in this thread but the switch signal is carried by the host, not the inner tube. Since both threads are bare/not anodized, unscrewing either end won’t give a mechanical lockout. I think the drain would be so low as not to be a risk if you did this and had the light crammed in a pack with the button being pressed, but yes there will be some level of parasitic drain there even with the aux lights turned off. Better than a smoldering pocket/pack, though. With the firmware update and the warmer emitters this little light has a lot going for it. If I had one big change it would be to reposition the aux emitters if possible so that they were more usable (each of mine are pretty close to the “cones” for the main emitters with one of the three being tucked further under that zone such that on high only two are effective and it’s a weird streaky almost-y-shaped beam…would be nice if they could be more effective as a colored moon level, so to speak. And/or adjusting the output of both high and low levels to something more appropriate. Had some hiccups but in just a few months they went from drawing board to a great little light that they are selling oodles of.
I’m really liking the brass version I recently received. The new lower moonlight level is great and I’m glad the LVP has been fixed.
I’m generally pretty obsessed with avoiding green tints and these LEDs in 4000k don’t bother me; however, I do think they benefit from a minus green filter.
Sorry, not the best picture. The minus green clearly makes a difference in-person. These are both the 4000k version. On the left is the new brass light as it arrived. On the right is my older red version with a minus green filter. I think the differences in body color are contributing to the tint shift differences around the perimeter.
Mechanical lockout works and cuts the power - unless the switch is pressed which provides the driver with power and starts the reset process.
Thanks, Jon. I appreciate your informative reply, and for clearing up my questions. Yeah, for me it’s the paradigm shift from the FW3A series. While the FWAA is a bit prone to accidental activation, the smooth button action is easy to click out 4 times for electronic lock. And when I’m not using the light I do a manual lockout (just principle to cut the circuit). But I see this isn’t necessary to do while carrying the TS10, since the button is less prone to activation by accident. I like the aux-LEDs on low—very nice visibility at night. I don’t need them during the day and 7 clicks several times to hit the “off” menu is a PITA. So I’ve turned them off by default but have them active on low in electronic lockout. But if I’m not interested in the aux-LEDs being on, it’s nice that they can be controlled by a simple physical lockout (just slight turn of head).
I think I’m also going to disable turbo. I don’t find myself using it much and a lower ceiling seems to do the job just fine for most purposes.
I feel the same.
fwiw, I also encourage you to also change the thermal limit to 50C… it helps sustain the 120/150 ceiling output
note the version of Anduril on the TS10 lets you do 10C by using 1H, so to get to a 50C limit, you can do 1H, 1H, instead of 20C (thermal floor is 30Celcius, so it takes 20Clics to set 50Celcius)
Enjoy your TS10
Thanks, Correllux. Yeah, I’d missed that post (there’s so many!). Intriguing to learn about the different approach from the FWAA to the TS10. I agree, the aux emitters should be repositioned and in mine, one is notably askew compared to the other 2. But, it’s minor. I’m not staring at the front — the glow of the aux emitters is a generalized thing. I do agree, this is a great light. And comparatively, a bargain compared to the FWAA. After seeing what Lumintop did to the FW3A (unwanted hardware changes), I wasn’t all that hopeful but Wurkkos has really stepped up. I’m glad I took a chance. The TS10 is also my first full-brass flashlight because Wurkkos gave us a really decent price for it.
Great! So if I got this right, 3C from off to get to battery check. Then 2C for temperature menu. From there 7H to get to thermal config. Let menu 1 lapse (just sets temp C). Menu 2, do a 1H then 1H again to get 20C?
yes :+1:
when you do 7H, release at 2nd flash to set thermal ceiling w 1H, 1H. Then release and just wait for the flicker to end
Ah, got it. I’d gotten confused because in Anduril 1, when you’ve got multiple options in a menu is sequentially scrolls through them and you have 2 seconds to select your option in each (if you don’t select, it just steps to the next option until done). I do see in Anduril 2 that you just keep holding until the focus is on the menu item you want to set. :+1: