For example… many many turns of electrical tape on body and tail cup and a good pipe pliers or knipex
Just because I had it sitting here:
Weiman Metal Polish . They make a few polishes. This one says it is for brass and copper.
When I did the TS10 the cloth turned a quite black color. Supposed to leave a protective coating (?) I did some bowls with it years ago, and they did stay nice and bright longer.
PS, Maybe this is useless. I can’t find this for sale today… Amazon lists it as unavailable.
I HAVE, had it for a long time. Too bad I wrote my response before checking.
BTW, I have had good luck with the Brasso polishes years ago.
Not specifically on the ts10 but for my knives and other copper and brass lights I use flitz. It strips all the patina and protects the finish after. But the protection fades away with pocket time, which I don’t mind.
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I have been using Sunshine Cloth for many years, besides for copper, it also on Titanium lights, and on Ti or Stainless Steel pocket clips too…
my girlfriend swears by it: 
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congratulations
What is your objective, that made you want to remove the tails?
The tail needs to stay glued so only the head is removed for battery changes. Since there is no retaining ring for the switch parts, they all fall out when removing the tailcap.
Are you trying to fix something in the switch? What is the problem?
- Some people complain that the switch is not sensitive enough, and only works when pressing the center of the button. I like that because it is harder for it to turn on by accident.
But if you are interested in making it more sensitive, so it works from the edges, you could follow the info from bean_master in this post.
I do not use that mod, because that would force me to use electronic lockout when carrying the TS10… I prefer not to use lockout, I like that the stock switch is less likely to turn on in pocket that a FWAA, whose switch I find too easy to turn on by mistake.
- There is one other issue with the switch sometimes… that is discussed in this thread which has to do with a defect in the attachment of the little silver button that the switch button presses on.
Sometimes the little legs that hold it down get bent in a way that makes the switch stick or make inconsistent contact.
- Or do you have another reason why you wanted to unscrew the tail?
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Update: Wurkkos has sent me a replacement for the wrong battery tube. Excellent customer service!
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1 me too
2 it’s not a bad switch, better than the fwaa and it can be disassembled and reassembled without having contact problems like fwaa
3 just for fun, I like being able to tear apart the flashlight; maybe switch parts with the brass version
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glad you were successful getting the tailcap off
enjoy!
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In TS10 I remove tailcup for charging battery and not the head because clip scratch the aluminium.
No problem in this way. I also can do the same with FWAA. FW3A is sometimes a bit “f**k you” 
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Wow, that amount of glue is enough for 10 lights!
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@Wurkkos It would be nice to have a model slightly larger than ts10, With 18650 battery and charging port. And even with the same LEDs. How do you think?
FC13? TS25? Just set the ceiling to whatever level matches the TS10.
I think maybe more like a 18650 TS21 (or side switch FW3A 
), the FC13 is a very bright and low-cri single emitter light, while TS25 is high-CRI but significantly bigger than the TS10.
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this link is showing all sold out https://wurkkos.com/products/【mao】wurkkos-ts10-powerful-mini-14500-edc-flashlight-with-3-90-cri-leds-and-single-color-aux-,anduril-20?VariantsId=10435
where is the best deal now for this light, US shopper.
The link you provided refers to the “MAO” version only. That option has been out of production/ discontinued for a while, but there are several other finish colors and copper or brass versions available. I usually order direct from Wurkkos website or the ‘official’ Wurkkos store on Aliexpress. Amazon is another option, but expect to pay MSRP or darn close to it.
Fair point, I guess, wasn’t really considering the CRI.
@Wurkkos any chance of another run of MAO TS10s? How about titanium? I have copper and brass now, I’d love to add titanium…
Seconding titanium (or stainless), it would be nice in 5800k and cyan aux.
Hopefully with threads that can lego with the copper, brass, and aluminum TS10s, it would be nice to have a Titanium TS10 with a copper head, or a copper head in a black aluminum light.
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seems many guys mentioned Titanium version, how many people are interested? Collect and see if it can be achieved
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In for at least one, all Titanium TS10, but more likely two.