Mine was presented to customs on the 7th (hasn’t happed to a light of mine for ages). Will be interesting to see how long it’s there for and what the outcome will be with regards to VAT, as this has already been paid (supposedly) to AliExpress
Got my TS10 4000K. Tint looks good. Appears a tad cooler than the SST-20 4000K on my D4V2
Looks good. Love the beam pattern on these.
Hi BLFers,
Wurkkos laboratory confirms to me after repeated testing that Vapcell H10 will not cause TS10 to damage.
The following video is Terry’s personal borrowing two H10 from my laboratory partner to personally confirm the report that can be used normally.
The previously CSP2323 be destroyed, there was a high probability with quality issues.
Link: https://youtu.be/qTyBbwo700w
Hope my report could help with you.
If have TS10 be destroyed earlier, please PM me.
Terry will send the new TS10 and some CSP2323 for replacement immediately, so that you could conduct a testing new.
Best reagrds,
Terry
When will the Wuurkos store have stock again?
I recieved mine this morning, here are color measurements of the 4000K version at default levels 1,3,5,7,turbo : Wurkkos TS10 4000K 90CRI - Album on Imgur
The beam is quite uniform, level 3 spot :
Level 3 corona :
The tint is slightly above the BBL and goes under the BBL at level 7 (–0.0023) and turbo (–0.0038)
CRI Ra is very high (95~97), R9 too, it just dips a bit at high current but remains high (>83). TM-30 Rf is a bit lower (91~93)
Thank you thefreeman for Sharing that info! Looking forward to my 2 new 4000k coming in soon. I ordered them on June 20, red host.
on June 25 I ordered a silver Host 4000 K & got word yesterday from AliExpress that the order was canceled.
anyone else have this happen? That was the one I was looking forward to the most. Maybe I waited too long to order and they ran out of stock?
sorry if this was already spoken about in the thread, I have not been following it too closely.
@ArtieT59
Yes, on the previous page. Please sent Terry a message.
@thefreeman
Awesome, thank you for the measurement!
Thank You! The high R9 is great to know. I have a Red TS10 4000K on the way, looking forward.
I plan to buy the Copper one too! 
thank you SammyHP, I have messaged Terry
Standby drain with red aux on high : 14.5mA to 4.3mA (4.2V to 2.8V) , that’s way too much.
Even ignoring the standby current, it’s too bright.
Anyway please chose a resistor for 1mA max for red/orange leds on high, and probably something like 300uA for green/cyan.
Aux led on during on has been fixed but not LVP for aux (not surprising since hat was fixed after I bought it).
Interesting detail, the body caries the switch signal and the inner tube the cell minus.
Edit : that’s why it doesn’t need any spring load so that both tube make good contact, the switch ring on the front (component side) always makes good contact against the head thanks to the screw pressing the driver onto the shelf (they could also have used a retaining ring), tube/head connection is made by the non anodised threads. The tube is screwed down until the inner tube (batt-) makes contact.
It also means it can be physically locked out.
You guys are amazing
That’s great news! I’m happy to hear that what occurred with my TS10 appears to have been a fluke probably not caused by the battery and look forward to using the Vapcell H10 in my next TS10 when it arrives.
This is good advice.
As others have mentioned the aux leds are too bright when they’re set to the “high” setting, though they’re fine when set to “low”.
However, the “high” setting is the default. Some unsophisticated users may not realize that they can turn the aux leds down to low or to off. they must might just run the light in the default setting. Those users might then think the light is broken if they don’t use it for a few days and then come back only to find the battery is dead.
To fix this in future runs, the maximum brightness of the aux leds should be reduced downward. This can be done by replacing the stock resistor with a stronger one.
Also note: Certain colors appear visually brighter than other colors due to how the eyes perceive colors. This is why current should be limited more for green/cyan than for red.
I could not agree more with your summation. I only use red aux on my Hank lights that get nightstand duty because the other colors are just to bright on low. I only have the TS10 with red aux because I wanted the low mode to be good at night and it is. Does this driver have a pair of resistors, one for low and one for high, or is the PWM set to control high with a resistor for low? I have not had the head of mine apart yet, really glued up tight and I did not want to break it until my 4000k was here.
There is a series resistor for high and for low it adds the internal pull-up resistor (20k/35k/50k min/typ/max, kind of q wild range there 
)
I assume that series resistor then is on the driver and not the mcpcb?
Found a photo… not on the mcpcb. But it does look like between the first led and the + connection one could bridge one in. May have to work harder to get mine apart. Swapping on the driver would be better as it would not affect both modes.
If you got a dremel with a fine ball-type “dentist drill” bit, you can lightly lightly lightly grind away at the resistor that limits current to the aux LEDs. The more you “hourglass” it narrower, the higher the resistance and lower the current.
Test, repeat as needed. Tedious, unless you wanna measure the resistance first, then decide on a target resistance, then grind, remeasure, regrind, remeasure, etc.
Think of it as the opposite of The Pencil Trick.
I always figured this worked the other way around. If substrate and coating were removed, I figured resistance would drop. I figured surface area or thickness increased and resistance went up, and composition of the material changed when more resistance was required.