I’d recommend 5000K and 3500K.
Both look great domed and dedomed.
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sounds great..
Can you please confirm if you mean the TS10 V3, will use the TS10 SG Single LED design, with One Domed 519a?
like the red TS10 SG on right?:
I look forward to your success.. 
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Which factory do you refer to?
The Nichia factory does not sell it without the dome (bulb).
Can the Wurkkos / Sofirn factory remove the dome? (the 519A dome comes off easily)
I like both the TS10 (3 LEDs) and the TS10 SG (1 LED), so I don’t really care which design is used.
If you make a TS10 v3 with 1 LED, it would be nice if the buyer can remove the dome (bulb) after they receive the light. For this, two things would help:
- The bezel should not be glued.
- The best LED for this is the Nichia 519A 5700K. After removing the dome, it changes color to about 4000K.
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The 219GF could be used to fit under the original triple optic of the TS10, as it has no dome, the beam would probably be very similiar to old CSP2323 emitters but without the shift in tint from the sides of the CSP emitter or the dome of the emitter.
Most noticable in the cool tint of the CSP2323 emitter, not as much in 4000K version. It is much more noticable in person than in this picture.
At cost of slightly lower CRI though
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I agree. Moonlight needs to be lower than on the SC-13 which really isn’t moonlight mode at all.
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I think it will be using Anduril . If so, you can set a very low minimum output. To the point that in daylight it is hard to even see the LED is lit. SO that should not be an issue here.
The SC13 with the Anduril buck driver has a very bright lower limit unfortunately.
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Yeah. But it’s not a firmware, issue… it’s a hardware issue. The SC13 driver just isn’t capable of doing really low modes.
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Got it but the OP was referring to the new TS10, correct? Asking for a lower “moonlight” than the SC13 that he doesn’t like for that aspect. I guess a new driver may change things, but the output (1/150) on all of the many TS10s that I have is very low. Notwithstanding anything that might be true of the SC13 light? Or am I, again, missing something?
Bottom line is that it is not something I am worried about with a new TS10… Of course they could make a major blunder by trying to use the driver from the SC13 for the new light…
@jon_slider pointed out to me, something that I missed, that this would be the plan… If so, I too am out.
Sorry about not having read more carefully!
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I think it will be a nice light, with the honeycomb body, USB-C battery, Buck Driver and 519a LED.
It will be a complete, compact, and convenient package, with High CRI and no need for a separate charger.
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If they’re going to use the driver from the SC-13 then maybe just call the lowest ramp setting low and not moonlight. and also they can change the name of the candle mode to flame thrower mode because that’s what it will look like in a dark room. That being said it is a nice looking light.
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On many lights, the low aux LEDs can be used as a moon mode. There are a bunch of lights I don’t even need to turn on when I go for a middle-of-the-night bathroom trip, because the aux is bright enough to see what I’m doing. This has greatly reduced my use of moon modes on the main LEDs.
I would prefer dimmer aux, and main-LED moon+firefly modes… but manufacturers almost always make the aux way too bright. So I use them as a “moon” mode, or even leave them around the house to work as nightlights. May as well, considering I’ve got more lights than I can realistically use otherwise, and many of them last years per charge.
Then at the other end of the spectrum, there’s the Lume X driver, which goes so low it’s not even visible to humans. Kinda went overkill in the opposite direction. Not a bad “problem” to have, though.
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I was surprised to learn that an actual candle puts out 13 lumens
we also have the ability to assign specific Aux colors to act as an individual channel (they come on at High brightness, and can use last mode memory)..
however, there is a bug if trying to disable an Aux channel, dont do it while the Aux channel is on.. only do it from the White LEDs being on.. otherwise the light forgets the white channel and only operates in the Aux channel, and the light will need to be factory reset (or reflashed to preconfigured firmware)
Anduril is more fun than a barrel of monkeys!
Yeah, have been meaning to fix that but I keep forgetting.
If you reduce the number of enabled channel modes down to 1, it won’t let you change channel modes any more. That’s fine, BUT if you had a different channel mode active at the time, it’ll get stuck in the wrong one.
As long as there are at least 2 channel modes enabled afterward, it’s fine to disable one while you’re using it. But going from 2 to 1 gets it stuck in whatever channel mode was active at the time. Gotta re-enable one and then switch, then re-disable the one you didn’t want.
Nah, it was just written by a monkey.
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I remember referring to code writers as “code monkeys” on BLF, not knowing that it was disrespectful.
(There’s a comedy song by Jonathan Coulton named Code Monkey that I enjoy.) 
true
only had the White channel and the Green Aux channel enabled.. but I was in the Green Aux channel when I did the 9H command.. to disable the Green Aux channel
result.. no White channel, only the Green Aux channel (that I had commanded to disable) was available each time I turned off and back on. 3C would not switch to white.
tried to reenable the White channel, but was unable to do that, it just stayed in the Green Aux channel. tried to enable a Red Aux channel.. did not work.. only the one Green Aux channel still
had to reflash to my backed up firmware with saved options (pymcuprog), to get out of single Green Aux channel,
or I could have used factory reset, but would have had to redo all my options
Yes, we will test whether it is necessary to redesign the TRI lens to make its size better
the single LED TIR from the TS10 SG does not need to be redesigned to work with one 519a, the single LED TIR is compatible as is
but if you want to redesign the TIR to be completely smooth, not with dots and not with fresnel rings.. that could give the cleanest beam
the TS10 SG single LED MCPCB also works with 519a, without redesign..
Not sure if this is the same situation, but a while ago, someone over at Reddit ran into the problem that they had only one aux channel mode enabled and the main channel mode disabled, and they were stuck in that aux channel mode could not get the main channel mode back. So I tried and replicate this, and I managed to get the main channel mode back without a factory reset, cf. my comment over at Reddit.
This was a very tricky operation, because there was no flickering with the aux channel mode when enabling back the main channel mode, and almost no visual feedback at all, but it worked.
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I agree with the choice to use a smooth TIR than the pebbled one. I sanded down my TS10 SG lens and it looks dramatically better. If it were frosted that could improve and smoothen the beam too.
It is quite throwy though. I’d say slightly further than the default pebbled. So the angle of it would need to be changed.
Although I’d rather see the classic triple. And leave the fresnel for maybe SG V2. A flat lens would probably throw quite a bit with something like XPG-R.
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