TS25 disassembly?

[AK-Adventurist]

As mentioned elsewhere, I apparently had a flashing adaptor short, and managed to partially fry/brick my Wurkkos TS25.

@AK-Adventurist

Might not be the best place to ask this, but its kinda related… I think.

If I short the flashing pads on a t1616 light while re-flashing anduril, could I fry the light?

I’ve managed to build the customized Anduril I’ve wanted, in the old pre multichanel branch, for my Sofirn SC31 Pro. after several days of use, I decided to go ahead and move all the changes into multi channel, for my Wurrkos TS25.

I won’t say that was easy, and I found some interesting things in the software… I was going to post about those, and probably will later, but its a kinda moot point right now.

I got tired of compiling on the Linux box and moving the file to Windows to flash. I started this way because the current ubuntu package for avrdude doesn’t support serialupdi. And I was set up to flash in windows before getting set up to compile on my own. Compiled avrdude from source for ubuntu, to get it up to date enough to work…Then Lots of learning finding serial ports in linux.

FInally got to flash the light from linux!

Great!

Made a couple ramp preset changes, and was chasing why manual memeory wouldn’t work, my 4th flash in an hour, and the adaptor stopped initializing the light.

Changed cables, no.
changed USB ports… No…

Went back to the windows machine… No.

Thought I fried the updi adator until I tried it on the SC31 to test.
Flawless!

So, yeah.
Somehow I’ve shorted out my TS25.

Only things I can think of are at some point linux supplied too much voltage… Not likely.
Or I crossed the pins on the pads wrong…

What the light does now is comes on as soon as you assemble it, in moonlight low. not lowest possible output but close. Switch does nothing, no off, no reset during assembly, nothing. Just the main emitters on, on moon. To turn it off I have to remove the head or tail cap(remove power).

I never changed anything in the software that could short the light, ie, no hardware deff changes, or ramp setup, power management, etc… Just rearranging click counts and turning provided options on and off. As I said, it was a working build, I was just chasing manual memory/default level settings when it suddenly stopped connecting.

The only other thing it will do, is start to initialize the aux leds when I “connect” the adaptor… It lights the on red, on low… Before this for every flash it lighted red high, then whitish blue high when connecting the adaptor, then low, and I think off while flashing.

Anyway,
Any thoughts?

@AK-Adventurist

I just had some of the magic smoke escape when I plugged it in for another light… And I have a pretty decent burn on a finger, it is getting HOT simply plugged into USB. Sucker is shorted out internally, and cooking itself… I get the feeling it put power somewhere it wasn’t supposed to into the light.

Sooo… at this juncture, with no way of finding the issue inside it, and while waiting on the replacement light and flashing adapter to arrive, I figure, why not see about disassembly, at least just for information sake…

And who knows, if I can tell that the front board with the LEDs is OK, maybe I could build a custom light/replace the driver someday later.

Bezel off was easy, no thread lock or glue.
Optic and screws through the board to the pill are easy.

But, how do I loosen the pill/driver from the battery side of the head? Screwed in as I expect? Likely to be thread locked?

And does the switch loosen with a lock ring(and how the heck would I turn it)on the outside, or go inwards if/once the pill is loose?

Any and all thoughts and advice welcome!

[Sirstinky]

Theres no pill and the driver is glued in. Easiest way to tackle these is desolder the led wires and the aux led wires on the mcpcb woththe bezel/lens/optic out. get the switch bezel off and lift up the switch pcb (if its not part of the actual driver pcb). Desolder those wires, and either pry the driver out from the battery+ with picks and/or a spudger, or gently push it out from the switch hole with a sturdy wood skewer. If the driver is toast and you dont care about ruining it, tap it out with a metal drift.

You can test the leds with your multimeter set to the diode check and touch the leads to the led+ and - on the mcpcb. If your multimeter has enough Vf to power the 3v leds, they’ll light up very dimly since they’re in parallel. If they don’t you’ve likely killed them or your dmm diode check is under 3v and can’t light the white leds.

[Jeffgoldblum]

I believe the switch is on the actual driver on this light, so don’t worry about that yet.

There’s a ring of glue (if you’re lucky) or epoxy around the top of the driver holding it to the little shelf. Like, looking from the bottom, where that brass ring is, on the flip side thats a ring of glue and it’s pressed up against a ledge and that’s what holds it in place.

Go from the top and try and push/tap it out. It’s hard to do without damaging something, but theoretically possible.

Also I believe there’s two PCBs on the driver, one stuck on the other at a 90° angle, like a capital T. I think.

[AK-Adventurist]

@Jeffgoldblum

I believe the switch is on the actual driver on this light, so don’t worry about that yet.

There’s a ring of glue (if you’re lucky) or epoxy around the top of the driver holding it to the little shelf. Like, looking from the bottom, where that brass ring is, on the flip side thats a ring of glue and it’s pressed up against a ledge and that’s what holds it in place.

Go from the top and try and push/tap it out. It’s hard to do without damaging something, but theoretically possible.

Also I believe there’s two PCBs on the driver, one stuck on the other at a 90° angle, like a capital T. I think.

@Sirstinky

Theres no pill and the driver is glued in. Easiest way to tackle these is desolder the led wires and the aux led wires on the mcpcb woththe bezel/lens/optic out. get the switch bezel off and lift up the switch pcb (if its not part of the actual driver pcb). Desolder those wires, and either pry the driver out from the battery+ with picks and/or a spudger, or gently push it out from the switch hole with a sturdy wood skewer. If the driver is toast and you dont care about ruining it, tap it out with a metal drift.

You can test the leds with your multimeter set to the diode check and touch the leads to the led+ and - on the mcpcb. If your multimeter has enough Vf to power the 3v leds, they’ll light up very dimly since they’re in parallel. If they don’t you’ve likely killed them or your dmm diode check is under 3v and can’t light the white leds.

Thank you both!

Unsoldering that might be above my pay grade lol… I know its too small for me to ever re-solder… Might wait on this for a while.

The main LEDs do function. the driver is just screwed up in some way. Put a battery in it and the main leds come on, on moon. Take the battery out to turn it off. No switch function at all.

[James_C]

@AK-Adventurist

The main LEDs do function. the driver is just screwed up in some way. Put a battery in it and the main leds come on, on moon. Take the battery out to turn it off. No switch function at all.

That’s weird. To clarify, the main LEDs come on by themselves when you put the battery in? Do they stay at moon the entire time or do they ramp up to high first?

Silly question, but it’s not locked-out is it? Four clicks do nothing? Are you able to break the battery connection then reconnect rapidly four times? (If there’s a chance it’s locked out and the switch is stuck closed somehow).

[Jeffgoldblum]

@AK-Adventurist

Unsoldering that might be above my pay grade lol… I know its too small for me to ever re-solder… Might wait on this for a while.

Don’t think theres any way to take out the driver without having to resolder those wires.