UF-1405 with XHP70 >> XPG2 sliced >> Osram

Sure it does make a difference :slight_smile: lol

You don’t want xp-g3, it can’t be dedomed easily and it doesn’t trow better than xp-g2, what you want is the old version of the xp-g2 s4 dedomed, although is almost impossible to acquire these days, paired with a host like the 1405 should be over 500kcd with laser tight beam.

Beamshots. The tree is exаctly 100m away.

Control.

f/3.5, 4s, ISO400

Where in Europe are you?
We may be close :slight_smile:

These are taken in Skopje, city park.

Do you have a lux meter to measure the throw?

I don’t have. But I can make an educated guess. Considering this picture:
!https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7321/16306590299_754c88ab04_o.jpg !:https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7321/16306590299_754c88ab04_o.jpg
Which says that at 8A which this light is pulling roughly (+9A with Efest) the light can put out 4500-4900 lumens. If I divide that by 4 xml dies that puts it to 1200lm per die. So the throw would be very similar to a dedomed XML2 at 1200lm or ~3.8A.
Considering this thread UF-1504, 1503, 1505 - multiple LED's tested for throw (just what you have been waiting for!!!) the numbers are in the 350kcd or 1100m@0.25lux if I am not mistaken.

Here is SK68 14500 domed same place same time same settings for comaprison:

That might very well be a good estimate, but the reason I asked was because I’ve observed the dedomed XHP50 and 70 to give lower lux numbers in reflector lights. Part of the reason for this is the small borders between the dies; there is always some image of these unlit borders in the reflector, which means the effective/average luminance is less. But I don’t know if the border issue is the only thing reducing the lux, or if the actual die luminance is also less.

But with an aspheric lens measuring the lux inside one of the dies in the beam would get around this border issue. So I wanted to see if the actual die luminance is in fact what you would expect from a dedomed XPL with a similar current.

Ive seen this thing in person, it is an absolute beast, ive never thought that XHP70 will perform this good in a ashperic flashlight, some people might not like the + shape on the beam and that is okay, not everyone preferences are the same.

We might measure someday with BobbyMK, but in theory an aspheric lens is giving a direct projection from the die. So the cross does not matter for throw, each die is on its own. I also put a wire under the lens to make the lens go further and blur the cross if needed. Personally I think it is on the floody side for an aspheric. The die is rather big in reality. Reflectors make a donut shape with lower center brightness and wider beam on a array led like XHP70, so I get what you mean. If throw is considered die size is crucial, an XPG2 dd would make a lot smaller projection, ~6.4 times less die area, and gain ~200m range.

P.S. I bridged the springs front and back to get a bit more ampers on drained battery, and I got ~0.4A more.

I have noticed that the 1405 has a pronounced ringy spot. I have painted the pill with matte black paint, few weeks ago. But it is still ringy. The retaining ring is black, but is rather glossy. Today I painted it matte black and the rings are reduced. So I found out the problem it is the retaining ring.

It needs to be sanded really-really coarsely, and on top of that painted with matte black. That is my idea.

I swapped the emitter for a XPG2 noctigon (IOS) sliced, on the stock driver. It is driven at ~2A, which is really low but it does throw. The hotspot is noticeably smaller (duh), and this time I went for the +6000k emitter for the throw and visual color dominance. This is the point of large aspherical lens flashlight after all.

I was thinking of getting the MTN-MAXlp driver: here but it is rather expensive for 35$ (with shipping). I wanted the 5.5A, or the 5.1A, but I am not sure which one to get. Will the led be okay at 5.5A all the time? It should… It has to be a buck driver to use the full potential of the led, because a single cell cannot drive the xpg2. If you can think of a buck driver for +5A on two cells which is cheaper please tell me. I have searched the whole internet (I think) and they are really scarce.

SK98 XPL dedomed /// C8 XPL HI /// UF-1405 XPG2 sliced

X5/X6 Astrolux driver from banggood is probably the cheapest way for a direct drive driver if you are in Europe. Certainly works out cost effective for me.

I run my UF direct drive with an XP-G2. Although I admit, not for long runtimes as a rule. But can’t see why it wouldn’t be ok.

I have BLF A6 Fet driver. but this is a 2 cell light. I would like to have a 2 cell buck to fill up +5A in the driver even on medium or low batteries. One cell can give 4A on full, but under 4V it will be considerably less. :slight_smile:

Sorry my bad, wasn’t paying attention. Zener mod maybe?

Only buck driver from Mtnelectronics.

Zener modded drivers (2s setup) are for 6V leds .

I put R220 onto the sense resistor, and bumped the tail current from 0.9A, to 1.63A. Free mod, not bad.

An old thread but another quad die using an aspherical lens. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?262788-Red-Maglite-5D-Luminus-CBM-360-4500K-neutral-white-4500-lumen-aspheric

I have put the Osram 1mm2 from led4power and finally my thrower is as it should be. A square visible even in daylight. :slight_smile:

The driver is still the modded stock one with very low amps.

A friend of mine gave me once LedLenser A5 for nothing. It was out of order so I've challenged myself to make it working. So I ordered a https://www.fasttech.com/products/7522200 and a https://www.fasttech.com/products/2116105 . Put everything together making on purpose the warmest Lenser ever (at least I hope in AA class). A plastic pill - required some adjustments. Had to file grooves for wires, made drilled holes for screws. I've replaced optics because the original one was dedicated to THT diode type and was too short. But 20mm Convoy frosted lens fits perfectly. Here's some pics:

Does that light really have the LED sitting on some plastic with no heat path at all? I assume it is very low powered in order to keep the LED alive?