Well quite apart from any tint shift preferences this approach could also reduce the amount of output loss we see when dedoming. I believe I saw that mentioned in the thread linked.
More blue photons making it out of the phosphor rather than being internally reflected/refracted and further converted to warmer frequencies. In terms of achieving maximum throw this tint shift side effect of dedoming is unwanted and counterproductive, it just so happens that the gains seen by eliminating the apparent magnification of the die through the dome has an overwhelming effect that makes this loss in output acceptable.
Getting more blue light out is useful, especially when used in conjunction with a wavien collar/reflective aperture since the light lost and returned by the collar would be bluer and have a higher energy potential when being recycled by the phosphor.
Has any got any experience with using different types of led seal and the effect on tint vs bare dedomed dies?
pilotdog, we want to keep as much of the blue light in a thrower if we are going to use an collar to recycle light for example, because blue light is more energetic & can excite the phosphor more than the other spectrum of light, and when the light gets recycled it gets warmer by that process also.
So for maximum throw when using a collar we start with an as cool led as possible & if we can keep that tint after dedome we most likely will gain throw.
n10sivern, please do an amp & lux test to go with the new lumens reading.
From 600 lumens to 680 is a 13.4% gain, thats very much for only changing the wires from 22awg to 18awg. EDIT and it was just an misunderstanding :zipper_mouth_face:
You changed tailspring bypass wire, driver spring bypass wire & led wires, right?
I will try to do all 3. I am waiting for some emitters to arrive. I am also trying to get 10 XP-G2 S3 1C emitters to play with.
at this point it is not going to be reflective of anything as the emitter is damaged. The current is basically the same after the 18awg wires, so I don’t expect much of a change in the lumens. The resistance across the switch was negligible, but it may still be the culprit. I don’t know if the damage to the emitter could have changed the VF of the emitter, if so it may be limiting the voltage.
No, that difference was with and without the lens. That was done before changing the wires. The lens reduces output by 13.4%. When I did change the wires, I just changed the driver/led wires to 18ga. I don’t know the I will see much gain from changing the spring wires to 18ga but I may try later.
You can expect about 1-2% from upgrading the spring wires to 18awg, in my eyes because i like to as get as much output as possible its worth while, but it certainly isn’t visible by eye
I guess I fail to understand how adding a coating to the outside of the die will help more photons to “get out”.
I saw some test results somewhere that showed that adding LEDseal and other coatings reduced output a fair amount. Until there is more information, the “Diamond treatment” just sounds to me like a modified sealer so people who like blue tints can still have dedomed emitters.
It makes sense to start with a cooler emitter if you are using a collar, but the vast majority of people will not be.
PD, please check out Linus thread, where we have been discussing these things, MEM explains it much better than i ever could yet anyway
Vinz said it gained it output and as far as i know, he is an respected modder so i trust him when he claim that. And it could for same reason a gel dome/lens raises lumens output.
I have been following that thread, and I see MEM answering a lot of things about reflective apertures, and asking a lot of rhetorical questions about dedoming (post #253), but even he admits he doesn’t know for sure. For those of us not using a collar (yet), the extra blue light might not be worth pursuing.
I respect vinz as a modder, but the purpose of his treatment is clearly not for more output. It is only briefly mentioned as a side benefit one time in his post.
I just want to see more info about what he’s done, until then I’m skeptical.
Even if the main reason is to minimize the green tint shift (which I see as a good enough reason alone) the fact that it also slightly raises output is very good news. Tells me it’s not something as simple as a pink filter gel approach as that would inherently cut down on total output to counteract the green shift, just as an example.
I think I’ll track down some led seal and see how it affects the tint vs a bare die.
Yes that’s very apparent and a very good reason to start as cool as possible.
You might ask RMM, I think he said at one time he uses LEDseal on all of his dedomes
The tint thing isn’t a big thing to me personally, because
I’m not using a collar
I haven’t had issues with green tint shift
I don’t like blue tint
My thoughts may change if it turns out to increase output a noticieable amount, but that remains to be seen. Generally I will happilly trade a tiny bit of output for a nicer tint.
I don’t quite understand the logic behind this approach, surely the easiest way to check if focus is optimal is to monitor for max spot luminance not tint. Since luminance measured on the meter is what ultimately matters.
Also lux meters are cheap, chromaticity meters or monitor calibrators are not so I don’t quite see the benefits.
But you get both readout at the same time, lux & temp & for those who have gotten massive gains by a RA have all said it is very hard to find the perfect focus.
I am thinking if we can use a color temp as a guide also besides lux, it might be easier, because i though lux focus changes over different distances, but that may be wrong for a RA focus application and only relevant to lens focus.
Sir, please look at the date of the post above yours. That is more than 6½ years ago.
I doubt if he or one of the posters before is available to answer you.
